While searching my photofiles for something else, I found these from an installation on the last job of some wood gutters.
Wood is integral to an eave design. The dimensions disallow simply tacking it onto an existing fascia. From the ground, it looks like a crown attached to a fascia. Since it carries water, and might be hard to clean and dry again later, when we get the material delivered, we immeditately do the inside with linseed oil and set them aside, upside down, to cure up.
Lead drops are let into the gutter to guide the water into the downspouts. We do this on the sawhorses.
To cut the drop in, we have already cut the length and dry-fitted it and marked the spot we want the drop to be. We drill th ehole and then use a chisle to shave out a bit of the bottom of the gutter so the flange can seat without making a high spot that will retain water. After fitting it, we seat it in Geocel caulk, and add a few small 3d nails to hold it.
The gutter attaches to the rafter tails, with a part fascia below and a part above. The upper is ripped to mate the bevel and glued to it wirth PL Premium Polyurethene glue or Geocel caulk. This is to prevent backups of high water that would let it spill into the framing and behind the sofffit where it would do damage. If it rains hard enough to fill the gutter, I want it to spill over the front and not weep into th e structure.
Photo 35 shows where on one side of a hip, the upper fascia is on, while the gutter is bare on the other side of the hip joint.
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Interesting. I like it. But I gotta be honest ... Bob Smalser does a better job with the narrative and pictures.
:)
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Where's that?
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Bob is the guy from somewhere out around Seattle that posts those great stories, with pics, about such things as slabbing out a big felled doug fir, and rehabbing old chisels bought on eBay.
Being from the Boston area, it's common to "let in" lead strips at the inside and outside corners on renovation work around here on wood gutters of better installations, not mention back primeing of the fir gutters before install. No need in your area? Don't want to start a debate on it though.
JMD
I do backprime. Mentioned that already. First thing I do on delivery is get it sealed with linseed oil.I use the PL at the mitre joints instead of the lead lap strip. That is the old way, but it makes for a raised dimension that causes water to puddle behind it about 3/16" deep. After twenty yeasrs, that sopt is where I find them going punky.I do a lot of repair/rebuild on these too. use epoxy penetrating compouinds after scraping or wire brushing. Most of the rot is found right around where the nails were holding that lead lap strip in place. So I've found this way of sealing the joints together instead. I also use trim head SS screws at the mitre joints instead of nails because they are less likely to allow the sealed joint to pull apart.
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Piffin,
If you'd like to see a Shutterfly album of some wooden gutter I've installed then lined with copper with full soldered joints then please send me your e-mail address.
[email protected] Are you in Maine too? I live in Newburgh just south of Bangor.
Sure thing. You shy about posting the link here? Or is it a private secure site?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Not one bit shy,just unsure how to integrate the Shutterfly link onto this site.I've just started visiting and had just a few posts so far.
Nice work Piffin. Do you have any shots of the finished exterior? Sounds like you did something other than mount the gutter on 3/8" standoff strips.
Have you tried using threaded pvc couplings set in PL as an alternative to the lead drop?
Mike
Here are a couple. Haven't used PVC like that, but I have made copper drops to seat in the hole
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Maybe this shows what you are looking to see.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
It's hard to see the result, but it sounds like a nice system. On Nantucket the usual system is to install a fascia on blocking (spaces between blocking allowing "soffit" vents when there's no soffit), then 3/8" strips, then apply the wood gutter, sometimes dressed up with a scotia molding under the gutter, on top of the strips. Attached are pictures with and without a soffit.
I like your system--provides for the inevitable ice dams and looks clean.
Mike
We do a scotia or cove up under the gutter too or sometime3s a small bedmold, but I'd never seen the spacer blocks. The idea is good 'cause it would alow for drip of backed up water and/or ventilation so the wood at backside of gutter can breathe. Do you use any knid of screen to keep insects out?
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Yup, we usually use black nylon insect screen, sometimes bronze if the owner likes to spend money.
Staple 18" rips of screen against the house, letting extra hang down, install 5/4 spacer blocks in line with the rafter tails, wrap the screen up over the face of the spacer blocks.
Nail the fascia/frieze to the 5/4 blocks, hanging down past the blocks an inch or so.
Nail the 3/8" spacer blocks to the back of the gutter, then install the gutter assembly with 4" stainless steel screws. Run the scotia if req'd, which should hang down 1/8" past the 3/8" blocks. That minimizes the "dentil" effect.
When the sidewall shinges are done you're left with a 1/4" or so continuous eave vent.
Same details on the gutter as you, except for the plastic leader.
Mike