I am planning on building a wood shop approximately 15 ft wide by 2o ft long. I want to have a cement company come in and pour the slab. It will be one story tall with a normal roof line. The soil is well drained and clay. Planning on an asphalt roof.
Can anyone advise thickness of slab in order to be safe and support such a such structure???
I was thinking four inches but do i need rebar in the slab???
Replies
John
Planning on a footing?
What's the frost line and your code depth?
As far as the slab, a good base goes along way in bringing you joy. Re-rod well placed don't hurt either.
If in a heating climate-think radiant in that slab.
And more than an 8' ceiling so you can flip sheets up and over w/o a problem.
Keep all wall outlets up above 4' off the floor-bitch to be behind a leaning sheet.
See this thread: http://forums.finehomebuilding.com/breaktime/construction-techniques/does-concrete-slab-need-footings-below-frost-line
Virtually the identical topic, and a number of considerations are raised.
>>>Virtually the identical
>>>Virtually the identical topic, and a number of considerations are raised.
Yeah, except that shed was 6x10 and unheated and his is 15x20 and (presumably) heated.
I built one (12x16) and did a monolithic slab (integral footings). It has worked well and of course saved some bucks because the truck only came once.
By the way, to the OP: If it's a wood shop, don't forget to build with at least 9' ceilings so you can easily flip pieces of plywood.
Run some conduit in the slab...
to those locations where you expect to place your major machines.
Run some conduit in the slab to those locations where you expect to place your major machines.
Or where you'd like to keep tripping for several years, until you saw off the stubs in disgust (usually just a coupla months before you come up with a need for the conduit).
>>>Or where you'd like to
>>>Or where you'd like to keep tripping for several years, until you saw off the stubs in disgust (usually just a coupla months before you come up with a need for the conduit).
Haha... true. Another option is to hang power from above in specific locations. Tends to be more flexible than stuff set in the slab.
That being said, I put some flush-mount receps in the middle of our living room floor, and they have been very handy. The same could work for a shop if you're real sure about locations.
If you go with infloor boxes be sure to get proper ones designed for this application and that have covers for when not in use. I went with Wiremold Walker Infloor boxes and have been happy with them.
yea, unless
he sets a box flush with the floor...
wood shop slab
all great points to consider. i had to run some conduit in slab floor not sure i would rip it up again to do this i had later runs hung in from ceiling
anybody have a guess on cost per sf to pour and set the slab
by the way yes it will be heated, location is central virginia
3 3/4 yards of concrete for a 4" slab without footing. Local cost of concrete varies throughout the country, but most ready mix companies have a 4 or five yard minimum, so figure 4 yards at $100 per yard. Labor also varies a bunch so that would just be a WAG. Excavation, soil compaction, crushed stone, wire mesh or rebar, and a 6 mil vb are additional cost. Actual placing and finishing can run from $1.25 to $2.00 a square foot depending on how easy or dificult it is to get the concrete to the site. If a truck can pull right up to the job the cost is lower and conversely if the mix has to be wheeled in with a bobcat or wheel barrel labor the cost goes up. A worst case for a small job would be needing to use a mini pumper to get it in place.
Call a couple of local contractors and get some estimates and referances. Be aware that sometimes small jobs end up costing more per square foot than larger pours.
The soil is well drained and clay.
Isn't that an oximoron? Well drained and clay seem to me to be mutually exclusive.
You have to have a footing ... either full footing or a thickened slab edge which many BO accept for a utilitarian shop application. Rebar at the perimeter/footing and WWM through the center.
What.Clewless.said ;o)