Working aluminum with woodworking tools
This is going to sound stupid, but I need to do some metal working and all I have are woodworking tools and no access to a machine shop.
I want to do some rudimentary work on some billet aluminum. Basically cut it to size, bore a few holes. With a drill press I can do the holes. Not sure of the best way to cut it to size though. The piece is basically 2″x4″ by 2 feet long and I need to cut off an edge (bevel it) along the 2 feet length. And when it is finally shaped and drilled, it needs to be leveled on two sides.
My questions would be:
1) what’s the best tool to use to cut this?
2) what’s the best blade material to use? Best bit to use? (Holes will be 3/4″ in diameter, mostly, maybe up to 1″ diameter).
3) Hardest question (for me to figure out) is how to level the two sides when finished? I have a laser level if that could figure into the solution.
Thanks for any help and suggestions.
Replies
i've cut iron balusters with a diamond blade on my back-up (read as old and out dated) chop saw. Alumnum melts at 1440 F. so wear protectice clothing and have a water stray bottle handy. A fire extiguisher too. Clamp before cutting and go slow.
Then what you want (doing it yourself), may not be the best idea. Take it to a mettel shop and pay the few bucks.
Best to you and yours, Chris.
Some say I know too much.
I will cut an aluminum threshold or 2 with whatever carbid tipped saw is handy , except for a real nice finish blade. Alum. boatbuilders around here use to love Oldham 7 1/4 blades (don't remember which model), then OLdham changed something and they went from great to so-so.
So my advice is use a nearly worn out cutter and don't leave the chip/dust bag on yer saw.
Sorry ,I addressed this to the wrong person and cant change it with this editing program
Edited 12/31/2006 10:19 pm ET by bobtim
I've cut a lot of aluminum with both my TS and chop saw using a 60-80 tooth carbide blade.
I don't know what a "billet" is; the stuff I've cut is bar or angle stock that is 1/8" thick or less.
If you need to do any more than a few cuts, it would probably be best to use a carbide blade specifically designed to cut aluminum.
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
What size bevel?
1/2" or smaller can be done with a table saw or a router with a carbide bit.
Larger one with a table saw and several passes. Don't use a coarse or fine toothed blade. A 44 to 48 tooth, 10" blade is about right.
Either way be sure to wear a full face shield and hearing protection. It'll be loud and the particles will fly.
While the blade or bit won't be ruined, it will lose it's fine edge. Just save them for the next odd material.
Buic
A lot depends on the type of aluminum. Some aluminum is quite soft and "easily" cut with woodworking tools (if you don't mind dulling them a bit). Other aluminum is fairly hard/tough and is better cut with metal-cutting tools.
For drilling you can use standard "all-purpose" drill bits, though with softer aluminum it's best to have a bit with a sharper point (for fastest/cleanest cutting). Of course, even cheapie "all-purpose" bits in the larger sizes can be a little expensive, but I wouldn't think it would break the bank. Drill pilot holes (maybe 1/4 or 3/8 inch), to make the large holes easier to bore and more accurate.
I don't know what you mean by "leveled on two sides". Presumably the faces are about as parallel now as one can reasonably hope for. If you mean they'll need to be "surfaced" to a high degree of flatness then that's something that should be done in a machine shop. I don't think you want to run the thing through your planer.
If you have a bandsaw, you can get a metal cutting blade and tilt the table.
Don't use a blade that's too fine when cutting aluminum, though. The gullets will clog and it will stop cutting. Taking your time with a carbide blade will work.
I've used my Bosch variable speed router with HS bits. You'll not want to freehand any of it so guides are a necessity. Slower RPMs got the best results for me.
My 36" wood bandsaw was cutting metal before I took it home. They had a gear-reduction motor on it. Which they kept. I too am unclear on what bevel you want.
If you'd fill in your profile you might find someone here who has the appropriate saw. For instance, I do. But you're clearly not in this vicinity if you can't find a machine shop.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Seems like renting a port-a bandsaw for a day would be his best option. A couple of hours to build a cradle to hold the saw at the correct bevel angle and less than an hour to cut both bevels and to length. Smooth out most of the saw markd with an angle grinder or low speed belt sander.
Dave
Seems like renting a port-a bandsaw for a day would be his best option
Interesting idea. I've never used one, as stationary fits my needs better.
There are a large number of small metal bandsaws in private urban/suburban shops. I would expect it easy to find one to borrow, or trade whatever for a cut or two. The Harbor Freight metal bandsaw I started with is now keeping a friend happy, after I traded up to something larger and much faster.
If he lives rural, most farms will have one.
You're right about building tool jigs. Surprising accuracy can happen, whether for a saw, router, sander, or angle grinder.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
I piece of 2X4X24 solid stock is not easily going to be brought to size with standard wood working tooling like a table saw. Why not buy it to size? As an extrusion (bar stock) it's going to be pretty good on flatness and parallel. Squareness will be within about .010. The problem with extrusions is that once you start cutting into the "skin", all dimensions are out. The stuff moves around as there a lot of stress involved. I would not want to be holding this size stock by hand for sawing unless I was using a saw designed for metal work. I've cut a lot of stock with the proper radial arm saw. It's even how it's cut in the supply house.
For the most stable stock, tooling/jig plate works well. Sorry I don't remember the real name for it but most supply houses will know it. It is Blanchard ground and stays flat and parallel. It also costs a bunch more.
Standard wood cutting tools are not that excessive in the cutting speed. A light spray of even WD-40 works well in preventing galling (welding) of the stock to the cutting edge. Most any light oil also, they make a wax stick as well but I never liked them. A band saw and belt sander will work fine.
Drilling is easy. Pilot hole first at 1/4 dia. Secondary hole @1/2 or 5/8, then finish. Of course you need to slow your spindle speed down as you increase your drill dia. I would not hold the stock by hand on the larger sizes.
Cutting thin flat stock on a table, miter, band, ect saw is nothing. Your talking about a much larger hunk of stock.
What are you making?
> I would not hold the stock by hand on the larger sizes.I second, third, and fourth that! I had a drill press rip a workpiece like this out of my hand once, and that was enough for me. Clamp the workpiece firmly and, if you don't have a fence, also block the workpiece in place somehow, in case a clamp comes loose.
Half of the harm that is done in this world is due to people who want to feel important. They don't mean to do harm but the harm does not interest them. --T.S. Eliot
<I would not hold the stock by hand on the larger sizes.>
I fifth and sixth that. I had a hand-held metal piece catch, a big drill bit snap, and whirl around and smack my wrist. Family away; called my mom to take me to the ER. Broken wrist and some stitches.
Forrest