Replies

1. 
   jrnbj | Feb 16, 2005 09:52am | #1

   Get a splinter in your finger & it gets some kind of reaction to the oils that make it so good for exterior use.....

2. 
   Homewright | Feb 16, 2005 02:02pm | #2

   A few other considerations worth noting...

   It's heavy!  Don't scrimp on your framing.  If in question, go to the next higher dimension 2" x lumber if you're nearing span restrictions and stay within conventional on center spacing for framing.

   Use stainless steel or double dipped galvanized fasteners to keep from problems with ACQ framing lumber.  Tom Silva's technique of skipping attachment every other joist sounds a little dubious and I'd opt to attach at every joist with fasteners instead.

   Every hole has to be pre-drilled & countersunk where you want to screw it down.  Keep a battery on the charger all the time or work with corded tools.

   It makes dust comparable to flour in consistency so if you have breathing problems or are susceptible to them, wear a mask.

   Yes, it's tough on blades so keep some new ones in reserve.  You'll know when it's time to replace them...

   It's really stable without a lot of expansion/contraction qualities so your joinery won't be moving around much in the weather.  Make your finish joints tight and they'll stay that way.

   Nailing the stuff with pneumatic nailers is an iffy proposition at best and often splits the wood especially if done so near the end of a board.  Predrilling and hand nailing can be more effective but slower, obviously.

   It mills quite well but once again, is tough on cutting tools so keep that in mind by having back ups handy.

   Good luck and hope some of this helps prepare you for the fun ahead...

    

3. 
   Forrest | Feb 16, 2005 03:47pm | #3

   Don't forget to use a end sealer to seal up the cut ends.

4. 
   DDay | Feb 16, 2005 06:05pm | #4

   It's a very hard wood but I experience is that its not too bad to cut.  Use a good blade and let it do the cutting, you'll be fine.  The grain is a lot like cedar, just 100 times denser.  The ends will splinter on cuts like cedar, so I like cutting it with a miter, the cut is much nicer.  It is very heavy and the pre drilling for every hole gets to you.  Forget about gun nailing, every hole needs to be drilled, whether your using screws or nails.  For the finish, use penofin or a similar uv clear finish and the end sealer for the checking is called anchor seal.

5. 
   BillHartmann | Feb 16, 2005 06:11pm | #5

   I don't know which project that the you saw.

   But when they rebuilt his brother's house they used IPE with mairne adhesvis and only finih nails to hold it in place until the adhesvie curred.

   Don't remember the name, but it was a 3M polyurethane marine adhesvie.

1. 
   reinvent | Feb 17, 2005 01:29am | #12

   The 3M product you are thinking of is called 5200. I have seen it sold at HD of all places, but can be had at any marine supply store. Word of caution; You DO NOT want to get it on bare skin, makes expanding foam seem like elmers paste. Its top of the line stuff though, only thing you will ever see on boats. I also think you can apply it under water.

1. 
   BillHartmann | Feb 17, 2005 05:59am | #13

   Yes, that is the one.

6. 
   CJD | Feb 16, 2005 06:49pm | #6

   I am a fan of Ipê and warnings about hard, strong, and heavy are true. It is a little more than Redwood here and less than plastic decks like Trex and the like. Drilling and countersinking is really a pain, so I have been considering using the EB-TY Hidden Deck Fasteners: http://www.ebty.com/eb_ty_products_main.html

   Does anyone have comments on EB-TY? This is the system that uses biscuit slots.

   In my area, the Penofin sealers work very well and make it look like rosewood furniture (almost): http://www.penofin.com/

1. 
   cnied | Feb 16, 2005 08:21pm | #7

   The eb tye system si fantastic. We sell a ton of decking and this system seems to be system of choice by far. Once you are set up tool wise for the bisquit cutting required it is a slam dunk. Ipe is hard on tools so work that into your overall price for replacement / sharpening.Good Luck

2. 
   DDay | Feb 16, 2005 08:31pm | #8

   I've used ipe with stainless nails and also decks with eb ty.  Whatever you use with ipe, it is going to take much more time than PT, Redwood, Cedar or Mahogany.  The Eb ty will take atleast 30% more time.  It is a very good system, really allows the beauty of the wood to show through.  But it takes time to cut all those slots, for large decks it will drive you nuts.  Drilling holes for nails or screws is much quicker.

   In addition to the eb ty directions, after you cut the biscuit and are setting it on the deck, pre drill through the eb ty for the screw.  If you don't, it has a tendency to split the bottom out of the slot.

3. 
   johnharkins | Feb 16, 2005 08:35pm | #9

   I'm an ipe fan - I did not see the show you are refering to but could not imagine leaving any glue to be the only fastener between an expanding and contracting wood like ipe and presumably a piece of treated pine or hemlock / those finish nails will be about as strong as the splinters we hope you do not encounter
   I've seen some beautiful miters on this site and in my own work but have not cared for mine down the road ( even after biscuiting, splining, glueing and screwing ) - lap joints are beautiful too and without the skills to post examples for you I'd hope Bill H. or W from the Northeast ( i think that is who it is ) hassome exemplary photos
   another point is ipe's inherent weight is not going to jeopardize any span tables ( a bunch of guys around a keg listening to SPHERE talking story is ) but the strength and durabi;ity of ipe will allow you to span say 24" w/ a 1 X 6 where w/ 5/4 cedar or trex you may stay at 12" centers ** in a sun state w/ intense sun I would not go over 18" span so could be fastened to prevent cuppingalso CJD highly recommend ebtys but still require endless predrilling and biscuiting and I use glue too - predrilling as much for the beautiful but fragile trim head stainless screws
   very labor intensive but a deck and price to be much appreciated

1. 
   BillW | Feb 16, 2005 10:33pm | #11

   Wow - very flattering to get a reference like that!  Thanks John!  Here's the picture you mentioned (I think) ... Bill.

   P.S. hope all is well in the Pacific northwest ...

7. 
   Flashy2000 | Feb 16, 2005 09:42pm | #10

   Ah, the dreaded devilwood.  Here’s my experience.

    

   Like others have said, definitely seal cut ends ASAP with Anchorseal --- the wood WILL split rather quickly.  Also, a dust mask is a MUST.  I flew sans-mask for several days while sanding and developed quite a nasty little sinus infection.

    

   Pre-drilling.  You’ll burn through quite a few countersink bits.  The wood is so dense, it’ll start to burn quickly so drill halfway through, pull out, and re-insert to clean out the bit.  Be very specific as to the depth of your countersink as you will not be able to drive your screws (i.e., cut) into the ipe without snapping/spinning them.

    

   Subframing.  Ipe weighs about 8 lbs./sqft for 1X6 and 10 lbs for 5/4X6.  Obviously, calculate your spans and joist spacing accordingly.  Speaking of weight, don’t try to “save” a board if it gets away from you --- natural reaction is to grab at the falling board; believe me, gravity will win with ipe and your foot/toes will lose.

    

   Setting the boards.  I don’t know about the “every other joist” scenario, but what I do for ipe is stagger my screws, side-to-side, on every joist.  Two screws on ends and butts.  Pattern looks like this:

                                                                                                                            

   *          *                      *                      *                      *                      *         *

   *                      *                      *                      *                      *                     *

   *                      *                      *                      *                      *                     *

   *          *                      *                      *                      *                      *         *

   *          *                      *                      *                      *                      *         *

   *                      *                      *                      *                      *                     *

    

   After a wet/dry season cycle, I go back and re-space trouble boards by backing out one screw, adjust the gap, drive another screw into the same joist (as if double-screwing), and then reset the first screw.  Looks great, but the real advantage is that I cut down on the number of expensive stainless steel screws by 40% or so.

    

   Also, if you don’t have one, invest in a Bowrench. 

    

   I’ve been able to kerf ipe boards for small bends (like for stair treads), but wouldn’t recommend for anything larger like a curved fascia.  For that, I’ve had good luck with ¾” spruce, stained a red mahogany --- grain and color are similar/complimentary.

    

   Drainage.  You might want to slope your boards more than you normally would as ipe is so dense that it absorbs very little water --- standing water on ipe will rely exclusively on evaporation to dry.  I pitch my joists to fall between 1/16” and 1/8” per foot which works pretty well.

    

   All for now.  Hope that helps.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/16/2005 1:49 pm ET by Flashy2000