Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 24, 2000 03:52pm | #1

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   Hi Bill,

   I assume that when you say replace some of the rafters, you mean just the rafter portion that extends outside the house or rafter tails.

   If that's the case, can't you simply add a piece of similar wood stock to the side of the rafters, extending several feet into the open space and then cut the tail off?

   or

   Add a piece of 1 by 12 to each side of the tail? Yes that would change the profile of the original but would add visual mass to the roof line.

   You can tell I don't like messing with tiles. Once you remove one, you almost always end up removing ten.

   Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 24, 2000 09:56pm | #2

   *I'm jumping in with your question about how not to break the tile. I have to tile a little hipped 10'x10' tower roof. So how do you finish the top and get back down? Parachute and crane have already been suggested, thanks.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 24, 2000 10:55pm | #3

   *Hi Teo,I don't know the circumstances regarding your tower roof, so it's kinda hard to be specific.I do commercial, so I would use a man lift on a boom. What I found is that using the right equipment is not only safer, but normally much faster as well and you don't even touch the roof. These machines are available everywhere from equipment rental places.Look at your job, the site, height and estimate the setup time with scaffolds/ladders/risk/teardowntime vs instant access and mobility and 90% of the time, the lift wins.Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 25, 2000 03:18pm | #4

   *Thanks Gabe,Good advice, are you always so damn practical? Unfortunately, this is a little job way out in the sticks at a friend's house where I do all my experimental things. Driving time for big equipment alone would kill us. The "tower" walls stick up 6' above the rest of the home's 4/12 roof so we could rig up some sort of scaffold off that, but I was shooting for some sort of trick tile guys use to get across tile with. The stuff has been around for a few thousand years now.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 25, 2000 06:36pm | #5

   *Teo, You can always cantilever a platform off your scaffold, towards the tower to work off of. The trick is to not apply any weight other than directly downwards, the tiles will shear off easily or crack.Talk to your buddy, renting one of these machines for a day/week isn't that bad if you have a list of odd hard to get at chores to do. Repoint the chimneys, trim the trees, repair the soffits, fascia, eavesthroughing, etc.Gabe

2. 
   Guest_ | Sep 25, 2000 10:00pm | #6

   *Yeah, I had that scaffold idea sketched out too, complete with the other guy out on the end of it. Thanks. By the way, we ended up getting our windows from Italy after all. They just arrived and in great shape, whew! I still like your stuff, but we went for authenticity and they came in, including shutters, for just over 30 million.(Lira that is.)Bill, sorry for nosing in on your thread. The people at Redland Tile are incredibly helpful and make some great stuff. They might answer some specific questions and will send you installation literature.

3. 
   Guest_ | Sep 26, 2000 12:43am | #7

   *Just priced one of the small 30' manlifts in my small town 80 miles from Portland, OR, it goes for $85/day with a maximum of 8 hours on the equipment hour meter.

4. 
   Guest_ | Sep 26, 2000 01:55am | #8

   *Casey, What's their weekly rate? We rent them by the month and an all terrain will run us about $1500 US per month with unlimited hours.It's one of those machines that a small group of guys can share on one and get a shitload of work done for a small investment.Gabe

5. 
   Guest_ | Sep 27, 2000 01:52am | #9

   *Gabe - don't know the weekly rate, will check when I go back up next weekend. I just bought an old beat up JLG manlift with a boom that doesn't retract, for $1200. It runs well otherwise, however. I thought I had a good deal until I was told that a) that is the usual going price for one in need of repair; and b) having a heavy equipment place fix it would cost about $3000. (Plan on replacing the broken chains myself but it will be more for fun than for money...) Even with the boom stuck, it will do what I need done and pay for itself, although with only 2 wheel drive it doesn't have a lot of moxie on hills. There are a lot of boom manlifts at equipment auctions around here. Older, running ones that look to be in decent shape seem to run about $4500 (40' boom with 500 to 1000lb capacity - there were about six of them at a big auction near Olympia, WA last year and all of them went for about that). I have also seen several scissor type manlifts at auctions and they tend to go for considerably less, however, I figured the scissor lifts would not work as well for trimming trees or on side hills.

2. 
   Bill_Taft | Sep 27, 2000 04:34am | #10

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   Gabe,
   Thanks for the info on the work-a-round. I would agree with your idea, but the rafter, or more properly "Barge", has damage to the face side. I think the addition of a "scabbed" rafter might appear obtrusive. Also, there would be the problem of improvising some type of drip edge for the additional rafter to divert water. Appreciate the help. God bless.

3. 
   Bill_Taft | Sep 27, 2000 04:34am | #11

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   I was recently asked to repair the outer rafters on a 91 year old Mission style home in the tidewater area of Virginia. The rafters are 1 3/4" thick by 12" wide and appear to have surface damage that has been covered over with aluminum coil stock material. The present owner wants to restore the home and I will have to remove some of the tile roof along the fascia edge to replace the rafters. Any one who has worked with this type of roofing that can give me some hints would be appreciated. Additionally, how would a person work along dormers and in the valleys with out breaking the tile. Thanks! Bill Taft, I.H.S. Enterprises