*
We shoot with a Hilti Gun furring strips to the red iron and then use this as a nailer for the attaching the finish lumber to.
Attached is a photo of this in progress.
This example is with a tube steel shape, but you can use the same methods with W shapes (I-beams).
A finished beam in another area looks like this:
http://www.dixon-homes.com/ocean/Pic990820ee.jpg
You can see the rest of this house at our website:
http://www.dixon-homes.com/ocean
Aloha
Bill
Replies
*
I have two large steel I-beams I want to wrap (or have wrapped) in wood. One is exterior (22') and one interior (16'). How would I go about this job?
The exterior beam has a large soffit of 1x6 T&G cedar running parallel and beveled cedar lap-siding running on the face of the house above it as well as on the face of the house below the soffit. (The space under the soffit is to be decked.)
The interior steel beam has 6x6 pine beams set into it on one side, and these support 2x6 decking and subfloor above.
My questions are (1) what suitable materials are available to wrap the steel beams and make them compatible with the surrounding wood, and (2) how should it be applied?
*Dillon:I had a little trouble following your explanation of the location of the beams but I'm not sure that that is important. When beams are to be wrapped, normally they are ordered with nail holes drilled through the flange(s). That way, say if it is a 7" wide beam, a 2x8 can be nailed to the bottom of it as a substrate for a finish material such as drywall. Holes may need to be drilled through the center web for attachment of wood also. If your beams are not predrilled, you can probably drill some small (~1/8") holes for attachment of wood. Buy the best bit you can find! I would think that drilling such small holes in the beams would have a negligible effect on the strength, however to be safe, you may want to ask the PE who specified the beams in the first place.I believe that there are Hilti guns available to "shoot" two bys to steel, but I have never used one myself as that's not the way it's done in these parts for residential construction.
*Dillon- I too had a hard time following the description, but I can tell you I have glued(with PL400) and C-clamped 2X stock ripped to the width of the flange. Use plenty of PL400 and plenty of clamps on both sides.John
*Dillon,Matt G has discribed both methods correctly. We routinely shoot 2X to steel with a ramset, push it tight and pull the trigger.It works very well, you can probably rent one locally.Get instruction on proper use and correct loads.Don't shoot in the center of the flange near the web only along the edge.By the way between the noise of the gun and the ringing of the steel you might want to wear ear protection!Vince
*Matt, Vincent, JRS:Thanks for your information.Dillon
*We shoot with a Hilti Gun furring strips to the red iron and then use this as a nailer for the attaching the finish lumber to.Attached is a photo of this in progress.This example is with a tube steel shape, but you can use the same methods with W shapes (I-beams). A finished beam in another area looks like this:http://www.dixon-homes.com/ocean/Pic990820ee.jpgYou can see the rest of this house at our website:http://www.dixon-homes.com/oceanAlohaBill