| I need to glue up a 14 foot x 25 inch zebra wood counter top. My supplier doesn’t have lengths over 10 feet. My question is, what is the best way to join end grains over the length of the counter top? My first thought was to join them as two units over the under mounted sink by cutting a 45 degree and epoxy and pocket screw at that point. What do you think? I posted at Knots, but I thought you guys might also have some ideas |
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Putting a joint at the sink is what most stone installers would do, but as a woodworker I would shy away from it. Put joints where the sink cutout itself will be, sure. Just don't put joints right in front of and behind the sink, or you're asking for moisture issues.
Instead, use pocket screws and epoxy to make a butt joint somewhere else along the edge of the counter.
I did a counter of similiar proportions recently.
The stock was premade oak countertop from IKEA so I only needed to join it for length.
I used a router to get perfectly square ends on the counter pieces then cut 4 biscuit slots into the ends and joined the counters with biscuits. Because it ran wall to wall I was able to use wedges to develop the clamping pressure while the glue set.
Been in place 2 yrs. with no problems so far.
Liked your counter top picture. I liked your floors in the background. Were they concrete?
Thank You.
Yes the floors are concrete, color thru and divided into rectangular areas with CVG Fir strips.
If this top is made up from three planks, each about 8" wide and edge glued...
For the foremost plank, the one closest to the front edge, I'd have a butt seam on the least noticable end, away from the predominant traffic pattern.
I'd butt the middle plank over the sink so the butt joint will be wasted away when the sink coutout is made.
I'd butt joint the rear plank, the one towards the wall, wherever it looks best. If you can "hide it" at the same end as the front joint, away from the traffic, I'd do that. IF and only if it'll look okay having them both on the same end. Choice two would be to have the joint at the high-traffic end, for symmetry. Being that it's the rear plank it may be less noticable.
If this were a top for a freestanding island, I'd put the joints on opposite ends.
I'd run the options past the customer.
Joints? I'd use biscuits at the edge joints and the end butt joints for registration and joint strength, and epoxy.
Despite all that, wait until you get the planks and see how well the grain matches up. That may change any preconceived notions you have about the joinery.
Thanks for the quick response. I'll your advice on joint at the sink. Bisquits and and epoxy sound s like the answer. Thanks again guys. By the way, nice countertop.
The biscuits I use require some moisture to swell and make a good joint, which epoxy doesn't contain. I'd consider using a spline at the ends to give a 100% supported joint so there can't be any cupping near the ends. Biscuits along the edges are fine.
"The biscuits I use require some moisture to swell and make a good joint, which epoxy doesn't contain."Excellent point Tom, I almost included that in my original post, but backed off.
Edited 3/16/2007 4:00 pm ET by Mongo
Wait till you cut that stuff. Stinks.....
Good suggestions, Mongo.
I would also suggest using scarf joints (for larger glue surfaces), biscuits (for joint alignment), and Gorilla glue (for moisture resistance) if it can be clamped to resist the expansion of the glue.
I would also like to meet a customer who can afford a zebrawood counter top. - lol
Edited 3/16/2007 9:47 am by Dave45
Dave
I would also like to meet a customer who can afford a zebrawood counter top.
We did a whole kitchen in zebrawood down in Austin, TX. All sequential matched veneer. Not my cup of tea but kinda cool if you like that sort of thing.
I never got any final pic's of the place cause I left the cheap azz bast%^& that I was working for.
I think the HO was a heir to the Howard Johnson estate, something like that.
Same architect that did Mike Dells house and the Dell computer complex. This was his usual style, very modern, never a raised panel in one of his houses.
Doug
Actually the zebrawood is cheaper than the silestone counters we have priced. I am getting it for $10/ BF, about $4 more than cherry.
Did I miss the width of the boards being used?
Since zebrawood has such pronounced stripes a joint will be easily seen so I'd take quite a bit of time trying to closely match the ends to be joined and recut until everything is very tight.
How about a decrative joint instead of a 45, which looks like a butt joint from the top. A dovetailed joint would be seen, but also admired.
How about making the dovetailed joint part of the overall design. Staggered dovetailed joints at both sides of the sink cutout wouldn't be too bad.
There is also the option of finding another supplier with larger sizes.
Cheers.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
What about investing in a good finger joint bit, that way you could make up your desired lengths, then panel up your counter top. It would probably stronger than butt joints with biscuits.
If you have to joint the counter and want a quick solution I would use a finger joint bit for a router. If you want to accentuate the joint i would use dovetails, or butterfly inserts and butt joints. There should be no problem finding Zebra wood at lengths of 14+ feet. I'm located in Canada and I would look to purchase from PJ White Hardwoods,or Upper Canada hardwoods. Go online and I'm sure you will find lumber that will fit the project, you will probably make more money and the project will have a cleaner look
Ted