Removing a Truck Cap Alone
Learn a quick, safe, and simple method for taking off a truck cap alone.
I have two options when I need to take the cap off my pickup truck for a dump run or to haul appliances or landscaping supplies. Option one: wait until a buddy is free to lend a hand. Option two: try tilting the cap off the back by myself and hope I don’t drop it.
But both of these options leave me stranded when it’s time to put the cap back on. So, I decided to build oversize sawhorses the same height as the pickup truck’s rails. These sawhorses let me remove and replace the cap by myself without damaging so much as the cap’s weatherstripping seal.
How it Works
With the tailgate up, I crouch in the bed with my back against the roof and stand just enough to lift the cap off the rails. Then I waddle toward the back like a turtle with a shell several sizes too big. If I need a break, I can lower the cap because it’s fully supported by the rails and the sawhorses.
Next, I throw a couple of 2x8s or a scrap of ¾-in. plywood across the bottom rails of the sawhorses. This way, I can step over the tailgate onto solid footing and walk the cap all the way off the truck.
How to Put a Truck Cap On Alone
The real benefit of storing the cap on the horses is when it’s time to put the cap back on. With the sawhorse rails set at bed-rail height, lifting the cap back into place is comfortable and takes only two minutes. Plus, I can save calling in a favor for really heavy stuff like concrete work.
— Sean Groom; Simsbury, CT
From Fine Homebuilding #248
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View Comments
Instead of climbing in to the bed, lifting the cap, and duck-walking, I have found it easier to put a round dowel like a clothes pole under the cap about the midpoint of the cap and roll the cap toward the back of the truck. The pole should get to the back of the truck about the same time as front end of the cap, and it's much easier to roll than to lift and carry.
Our garage has two bicycle lifts with four inch-wide "hooks" that catch the edges of the shell. With one person, it takes 12-inch or so lifts or drops to remove or install the shell.
When unneeded, the shell is up out of the way.
I like this idea, especially using the dowel to roll the topper into place. Smart! Very Smart!!! However, I am a little luckier as I have a good sized shop with 12 foot walls so I plan to build a hoist system (hopefully an electric one) and suspend it from the "I" beam at the peak of the roof by using an "I" beam trolley. This way I can remove (or install) the topper using the hoist and with the amount of overhead space available I can just store the topper high above the floor on the hoist. It will be "up there" out of the way and the topper will be protected from the weather when I am not using it. I think I will probably use "eye bolts" (4 of them) fastened to the roof of the topper to lift it by. Now all I need is an electric lift. Hummmm..... Good luck to y'all on your project(s). ~ Tom
I have used a gas pipe section as the dowel with a combo of the duck walk/squat to lift the shell. Think like an Egyptian.
All sounds like a real pain if you have to do it regularly. Ever think of getting a trailer?
I agree with @civileng43 - get a trailer.
I have a 6x10 landscape-type trailer for my small Kubota. Comes in handle when buying lumber or plywood. The only drawback is the swing-down tailgate/trailer ramp prevents a forklift from getting close enough to the bed for loading a pallet of pavers or CMU. Often they can get the pallet close enough then push it farther on with the tips of the forks.
I had an occasional with my previous truck where I had to take it off. Used the loader on my larger Kubota with 2x4s under the cap (easy to lift it enough to slide them under) and strapped from the 2x4s up to the loader bucket.
If I ever get my he-shed (i.e. barn with 10'+ inside height), I'll rig a trolley & winch setup so it can just be picked off and set in the loft.