Client has a walk out basement with a 9′ overhead door. This door goes and a frame wall with an entry door replaces it.
The only difficulty is the slab is stepped down 1″ deep, a foot wide across the existing opening width.
What is a good way to add 1″ height to this small [9 sq. ft. one inch deep] section of slab. Most of the patch will be hidden under the new wall so the big concern is function rather than appearance.
Hmmmmm, I hope I made this understandable…………..
Replies
The frame wall seems to be the whole answer
Standard construction here (South Florida) is 2x6 but you could easily use larger members and/or rip them to size as necessary, you only need a dozen studs or so. Another possibility would be to build a double stud wall to fill the width of the gap. Is it a 9" reveal because it's concrete block? ... could you use that for your infill wall?
Seems to me the trick will be the door detail. We would hold the door jambs to the interior face of the wall and the sill bottom level with the raised area of the slab and let the reveal be to the exterior for a little added protection form the rain (which is coming down in buckets right now due to TD16). Setting the door to the interior slab should give you some added opportunity to weather proof the sill/slab connection and hopefully let the door head align with the other heads in the space and maybe even the window heads. That only leaves you a small area 3' - 6' wide by 4" deep for some type of finished threshold to flush up to the bottom of the doors sill, tile or stone depending on the house style and your location.
Good Luck
food for thought...
Thanks for the jump start to other solutions. The side walls are block with stone veneer and homeowner seems to prefer the new wall to match the upper part of the house, all frame and siding.
The recessed floor actually extends a few inches into the interior as the overhead door track is mounted on the inside of the wall.
one concern for getting the new wall up to main floor height is indeed to aid in weather proofing, i.e. rain.
PT lumber 5/4 deck boards.
Seems to me you should be using patching concrete.
Patching concrete
Dan,
I'm with you, patching concrete - leaving any wood to soak in constant puddle does not sound like a good long term solution.
Jim
Yeah, don't have any brand to recommend, but there are several that will work well in a 1" thickness, especially since it will have a wall over it to anchor it.
concrete patch.....
I'm looking into that as the direction to go.
So far a suitable locally available product hasn't surfaced but we're still hunting.
Thanks.
I am not a mason, therefore, I would go to your local masonry supply house or concrete ready mix company and ask them. Be specific as to your situation -- 1" deep in old concrete, will have wall over top of it, etc.
I suspect the complete answer includes some prep work like scarifying the old surface, possibly adding some pins, etc.
I would not go to the local Big Box and ask there.
Jim
local sources...
ma and pa building supply is the only local source, they were little help. They had a product that I think would work but only in gallons, premixed.
Fortunately I am an avid label reader which is where this internet thing is real handy.
Currently the candidate of choice is quickcrete vinyl concrete patcher [1133] which comes in 40# sacks, i just have to locate it.
Concrete Patch
If your patch is going to be protected you may be able to use GypCrete.
When I have a need like this I just go to the local home centers and check out what they have in the concrete patch section -- I don't have any favorite brands. Basically you'll find stuff for thin coats, stuff for thick coats, and stuff for just skim coating. You want the stuff for thick coats, with some fine aggregate in it. You're not worried too much about adhesion, so it doesn't need any super properties in that area. (I'm assuming you'll clean and scarify the area before patching.) You could probably get away with using regular Sakrete, since the aggregate in it is usually fairly fine, but I'd tend more toward one of the patching concretes.
When the wall plate is applied over your patch, some care should be taken with fastening it down. Probably best to drill holes down into the old concrete below and install lag shields or some such, vs power fastening or using short screws that only fasten to the patch. (In fact, you might want to consider drilling holes before you patch and epoxying in anchor studs.)
good suggestion..
Might indeed be a good plan to install the anchor bolts first.
I would apply concrete glue no matter what.
Even if you clean the concrete I would still slather on some concrete glue-never had a patch lift even feathered out to zero.
And, continue to read the labels, the vinyl patch sets up quick-no joke. Using cold water doesn't hurt.