I have been installing redwood ship lap siding, over the last month and have had great fun in the installation, with good tight mitered corners, as well as compound outside and inside corners.
Where my Question come in for any one to chime in is, what type a caulk would you recommend to be used at the scarf joints.
During the last week here in Southern Cal. we had some rather early very hot weather and the scarf joints, which were very tight, are now 1/8″ wide due to the lumber loosing its moisture. All of the siding will be painted at some time this coming week.
All of the redwood is old growth reclaimed from Northern Calif. forest and has been Kiln dried before it was delivered. But has sat covered as it was being installed. Delivery was in November. Installation was started in late January and we have had very little in the way of rain here.
What would I use as a joint caulking that will move with the lumber and allow the paint to stick and not come off over time 5 yrs. min.
Thanks
Tony Czuleger
Replies
This isn't going to be easy,
I probably would have used a polyurethene caulk as I was installing. Now, it is harder to squeeze such a small bead into the crack, IMO. It will set out nearer the surface instead of filling the crack.
Both Geocel and Sashcho make some excellent caulks with great elongevity.
I'm assumiong that you are in the west. Sashcho is probably more common out there. It is used in lots of Log homes which experience plenty of movement
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tape either side of the joint and use butyl gutter seal (brown). It will flex out abit when the joint closes and stretch back to flat when it opens..real small slice in the tube will give ya better penetration. Of course the tape is for the last wipe..use a plastic spoon to level the joint, then pull the tape. The back of the spoon will press it in AND make it slightly hollow, so it won't bulge too much when it eventually tries to close.
Or Go with clear lexel the same way.
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If the cut ends haven't been primed, you're going to have trouble getting anything to stick to redwood.
Tony,
If you're stilling doing the job it's worthwhile to get ahold of a moisture meter and check the moisture content of the remaining material. It sounds like it picked up some moisture after drying and was installed a little bit wet. Redwood shrinks for length (as you know) and you want to install it bone dry if possible. Anyway you can store it in the house or somewhere warm and dry?
The siding installation is almost complete, we have one more shipment of about 125 LF due at the beginning of April. Their is no place to store it inside unfortunately. This job is in the Hollywood hills and we get AM marine layer damp 55/60 degrees and cool, but by noon its up to around 75 degrees. Oh were the problem really is noticeable is on the south side, the shady side is not so bad.
The sashco product I have used but never gave it any thought I will check this out, as well as the Lexcel. Priming the Joints would be possible as long as the gap stays open.
Boy what a shock to come back to the job the next day and see all the gaps which were not present the two days before ?
By the way I have been using the Bosch 12" Double Compound sliding miter saw for this job. What a nice tool.
Edited 3/15/2004 10:34 am ET by Joeseph
Edited 3/15/2004 10:35 am ET by Joeseph