I have been rehabing a “cherry” 1000 sf 1959 ranch that has oak floors that have been covered with wall to wall wool rugs for many years.
As each room has been completed the carpet is removed and tack strips removed revealing almost pristine honey gold finished oak T&G flooring.
The end of rehab is near and final cleaning has begun. While using a new damp sponge mop with no detergent a few drops of water were apparently left for a short on the hall floor.
Some time later in the day it was noticed that those drops were now whitish markings on the finish of the wood floor. Like wise another area where water was spilled shows the same way.
The new owner is concerned about the maintenance and longevity of the floor finish.
What could the original finish be on the flooring?
How can the “spots” be repaired?
What product could be used to recoat the floor to give a water proof/resistive finish?
Your help is needed….thanks!
……………Iron Helix
Replies
You probably are seeing a coat of wax doing that, OR shellac. Both can and will do that.
I'd go over the whole thing with naptha, then re-wax. Anything else is a can o' worms waiting to open.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Thanks, Sphere!
With all that naptha vapors, the functional 1959 whole house fan will be deeply appreciated!
What is your favorite wax!
.................Iron Helix
My personal favorite is BRI-WAX, BUT it is NOT for the timid or first timer, it is very hard to get the hang of at first. Practice,Practice, Practice. It is Tolulene based and dries QUICK, and burns into some finishes ( like Shellac..LOL).Sooooo, that said. Johnson's Pastewax, Minwax Finishing wax, Mothers Carnuba wax, Butcher's wax, Bowling ally wax are all suitable for beginners.Go over the spots ith naptha and a rag, if it helps ALOT it is clouded wax, if it doesn't do much, use denatured alcohol and see if THAT helps, if alcohol does it, it is shellac and keeping it wet for a spell with alcohol ( do this on a less than killer humid day) will allow the cruddy part to re-melt, and a low humid day will let the moisture that may be trapped escape as the alcohol evaps and cools.You can then either wax the area, or apply a french polish type layer of shellac by soaking ( well not dripping) a rag, and do like an airplane, take offs and landings with the rag hitting the surface, leaveing a bit of shellac, then lifting off again, allow a few seconds between passes and it will start to build and level / blend with the old shellac.
Have fun, I Love doing those kind of repairs.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
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I have Bri-Wax, Johnson's paste and one other I can't recall.
There are only a few bad spots, so it should go well.
Thanks for the info and help...I'll post the outcome from over the weekend work.
.................Iron Helix
I like Briwax too.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I about had a heart attack the first time I tried buffing it off a cherry table I made..man it was scary hard..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
I like bowling ally wax
yep I change my oil every 3000 miles or when I get bored...which ever comes first
The naptha removed nothing, other than dust.
The alcohol likewise did nothing.
One small bedroom was waxed with Johnson's...okay, but not the desired effect. So the naptha was put back to work and the wax removed.
There was a bottle of "Old English Oil" on site and it was selected as a test. And....WOW...did it ever change the looks of the floor. It brought it back to life and the water and wear spots went away.
24 hours was allowed for the oil to dry and a closet was coated with Varathane floor poly. Today will tell the end of the story when I return to check the results. If the test looks and feels good then the remaining 700 sf will be done the same way.
I think the original coating was spar vernish, which was a commonly used finish product in this period of time and our neck of the woods.
Thanks to the Breaktime crew for all the help and insight!
.................Iron Helix
I think you're creating a disaster waiting to happen. Old english is an oil that doesn't harden.
I wouldn't trust the poly to bond well to that.
Rich
Maybe it is time for a re-think!
Back to the closet to check how well the poly has bonded!
Thanks for the tip!.................Iron Helix
Probably a light sanding then a coat of poly would freshen up the floor nicely.
Rich
The owner decided to proceed....in spite of discussion of the potential "can-0-worms.
The closet area was quite tight and firm...even to scuffing with a boot sole.
At least I'm out of the line of fire...it's all theirs. They did the the final application!
Wait and see....I have additional work there in the future.
Thanks to all for the advice and comments..............Iron Helix
I had a call back yesterday to look at "their" problem!
Just as you said.
The oil heavily soaked into the exposed from wear end grain of the oak flooring and in those areas the poly remained soft or had "bird eyed"!
Where the original finish was still intact the oil went on thin enough to have dried for the poly to cover and dry. At least 20% of the floor area is obviously effected. Mainly the walk and wear areas.
The owners decided to leave it alone and move in. Eventually they will try a recoat with poly. Time will tell.
Thanks for your heads-up....it saved me from owning that can of worms!
...........Iron Helix
Glad I could help.
Rich
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