I’m working through a set of plans for a commercial remodel. I see the architect has specced 2×3 wood studs 24″ oc against an existing structural brick wall (exterior). This wall is 12′ tall.
Anyone ever dealt with a wood 2×3 so tall before? Seems like there is a high likelihood of bowed studs, but I’ve never really dealt with 2×3’s in any quantity before. Comments?
Replies
Gud Luk. Or, for-get-it. I'd tell the architype, straight out, that 2X3 won't work. He should've called for 2X4 metal/galv steel studs there.
I think he didn't want to use steel because of thermal bridging/condensation issues.
...what the half fast one said. ;-)
Hey! I resemble that remark.
I may be old, but I'm slow."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Hey, what guage should he use at 12'? Pretty heavy, no? Like 20?
Being that I only worked with that stuff on union jobs and never ordered it, I dis-remember the guage.
We use 8" x 20 ga for exterior walls that support brick veneer, and minimum 6" x 16 ga studs to build box headers for lintels. Depending on the opening width, the lintel studs can be as big as 14" x 12 ga. The interior partitions (office walls) are 3-5/8" x 25 ga, with 6" x 25 ga at wet walls between restrooms. The buildings typically have structural red iron for a framework."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Lots of interesting information but you forgot to answer the main question; what guage would you recommend for a 12' 2X3 partition, fastened top and bottom only?
I'm thinkin' 22 guage myself but it's been a while since I framed with metal so I'm not certain.
Of course the OP could get the answer to this question from the supplier, easily enough, along with the recommended screws. He could probably rent a chop saw from the supplier too (hint).
Surely you don't think I'm going to give a design answer on the internet so some wahoo can use that to overbuild a wall, and then claim he got expert advice. Actually, I look to my architectural and structural drawings for answers like that. But, if I was betting, I would bet that 25 ga would work.
If he has enough to order, he could order them precut to the correct length.
And re: full ht studs to satisfy the OP, you could always secure them to the block wall at the mid point with a scrap of track screwed to the stud and hilti'd to the block, after getting them plumb and aligned.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Edited 7/6/2009 3:11 pm ET by FastEddie
I was only asking for your experience.....sheesh. ;-)
I've worked with 2X3 studs just once. It was a large condo job in the New Jersey Meadowlands, with seven foot ceilings. I've never seen 2X3 studs used on heights like twelve feet, only 2X4.
the gauge and depth do not matter if you do not clear span them from floor to ceiling. Just tie them into the structural wall as often as you need to. you could use 25ga 1.5 studs that are tied back to the wall evry 2 or 3 feet.
if there is a thermal bridging problem then the arch should have used insulation to solve it.
Yea but he didn't say anything about the condition of the veneer wall. For example, if it wasn't struck off on the inside, it could be a PIA to fastened anything to it. In addition, he mentioned the archy's concern about thermal bridging.
So I'm going for the simple, most expedient solution; full length, fastened top and bottom only.
We use 2-1/2" metal studs in commercial work all the time, for interior non-bearing walls. For a 12 ft tall wall they are the obvious choice: available in one piece, no knots, no warp, already punched for conduit.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Attach them to the wall with 4" tap cons
You are basically furring out the wall with 3" depth furring material. The block wall is the structural portion. Just add anchors of some design every so often to keep the 3" studs from bowing or crowning out.
I doubt you'll find any 12' 2x3s, I'd just use 2x4s.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
12 foot 2 x 4s ripped down to 2 x 3's.
If you're worried about possible bowing, just create a "strongback" stud (which is basically two studs nailed together to form an "L" profile)
I would make them out of 3/4 ply ripped, offset, laminated and cross blocked.More work but the call backs on construction grade lumber would scare me.
I don't think Archy thought this through.