used alot more than i expected like 2x as much… over new drywall ceilings 3 coats sprayed 517 tip titan 440 sprayer & used a 6ft spraytec pole (11ft ceilings)
but 30gals of very good paint… i didn’t prime… just sprayed the paint… slick finish ceilings that were wiped down so there was little sanding dust left… i’d cock the head and do the edges and corners first… spray coat on all the mudded areas… (1gal of flowtrol was added to the 30 gal batch of paint) then keeping a wet line i sprayed with a 50% overlap and a pretty heavy coat… i wasn’t try’n to save paint… i was after full coverage and no dry overspray areas… i think i got what would equal 3 coats on everything maybe more around the edges…
it looks really good so i’m not complaining i have plenty of paint… just used alot more than i thought i would… by double…
how does this compare to your experience?
man i like my 6ft pole did the first 1100sf unit with a gun and a ladder…
p
Replies
I'm not a pro painter, but even I know that one should use a primer first- especially on *new* drywall.
There are "new drywall" specific primers out there, and they can be tinted... at about 1/2 the cost of finish paint.
Not only are they a lot less expensive than paint, they seal and prepare the surface for the finish.
My rocker does the priming for me, and prefers a USG product, First Coat, but I prefer the more expensive S-W Builders Solution.
Both are called surfacers and are not only able to completely mask so paper surfaces and mudded surfaces blend, but leave a little bit of texture, just a little, so the appearance of flatness is enhanced.
And as for volume of paint used, any first crack using an airless pump is going to shock someone who only did hand-applied up until then.
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"A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."
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Gene,I'm pretty sure we've had this discussion before. <g>USG's First Coat is not a surfacer and should not be compared to Builders Solution. First Coat is a high build primer that is supposed to equalize surface textureUSG's Tuff Hide is a primer surfacer comparable to SW's Builders Solution. Tuff Hide and Builders Solution apply at 15 to 20 mils wet while First Coat goes on at probably 5-6 mils maxYou and your drywaller need to compare apples to apples
Barry E-Remodeler
You are right, Barry. I forgot the diff, and remember the specs, now.
My rocker just likes the First Coat because it is cheap. He cannot understand what you are getting with the move up to the surfacer.
Builders Solution is a scare the first time one uses it. Massive orangepeel everywhere at first, but it undergoes what can only be equated to a facelift, tightening up like a drumhead during cure, flat and smooth.
The SW package is impressive. Tint your surfacer to match your finish, and only one coat of finish is required. Perfect!
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"A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."
Gene Davis 1920-1985
you know what they say about our memory.There is a job that i posted in the photo gallery a while ago that had a lot of glass. I speced Builders Solution for the bare ceilings and walls.The painter used the BS upstairs and ran out. SW said they were out, so he went to Diamond Vogel and they convinced him their primer was comparable to the surfacer. It was just a high build PVA primer. He used that on the downstairs ceiling before I found out and the difference was night and day. The BS walls came out seamless with 2 topcoats. The downstair ceiling took 2 drywall touchups and 4 more coats of paint to look halfway presentableI'm sold on the surfacers. I've experimented and backrolled the surfacer even though they say not to and had good results.
Edited 9/7/2008 4:44 pm by BarryE
"you know what they say about our memory."Tell me again, I forget!;')
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dangI was hoping someone could tell me what it was
Barry E-Remodeler
It will use less paint and probably telegraph less mud joints if you sprayed PVA, or a coat of First Coat first to seal the drywall.
Edited 9/7/2008 12:13 pm ET by MarkH
While some will say you have to use a primer on new walls, you don't it just takes more paint, which I don't see as a bad thing. In some areas everyone skips the primer (pva, etc) and simply uses paint.
Your coverage seems reasonable. Too many people get hung up on coverage numbers as if it were the minimum sqft per gal, when it's really the max.
Isn't it amazing that many painters don't own extentions? I'm hooked on a 2' or 3' extention with swivel joint at the nozzle for most uses just to put more distance between the overspray and myself.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
you know i'm "resourceful" and that it's my place i don't have to worry what the customer will think...
I have 1000s of gallons of paint as i've mentioned here before... so i grab... 29 gallons of white and a gallon of latex flowtrol... it's all top of the line premium some has the ACE name some Gliddon, and zinssors (sp) and a few others... I mix interior & exterior... all the exterior says 18yr some says white some "pure white" some says white or mix base... some is flat some satin, some egg shell, I try to save the high gloss for other stuff...
i mix every can in a commercial paint shaker... and for the record... there is no way even with a drill you can mix it as well... i thought i could but it just ain't so... i can take a can that you would think is bad... put it in the mixer (the 1 gallon one that spins off center kinda) and in 3-5 min it pours out of the can like it was the newest stock in the paint store... I then batch it in a 30+ gallon plastic drum with the top cut off and a drain rack on top.... I then mix the drum with a drill and drywall mud paddle... i have a valve on the bottom of the drum ... i then fill 6 five gallon buckets and mark them with a batch number...
doing the math i covered 12000sf (3 coats on 4000sf) with 30 gallons... thats 400sf per gallon so i guess i'm good... just in my minds eye i was off...
i did the masking... which let me inspect it pretty good and sand a few spots here & there... I'm well pleased with the level of finish i have... for what it is it's way above the norm...
yeah I have the 2ft and 3ft poles without the joint... went and got the 6ft with the joint... got it at lowes and it was bent... so they knocked off $30 and i "unbent it" before i put it in the truck... while i was doing ceilings i'd switch back to just the gun and painted all the closets and mechanical rooms with the same paint...
thanks for your input
p
Yer over due for pictures man. I saw some from the minimemphest , but thats all..got a camera?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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My general rule of thumb was that when using an airless, I would need twice as much paint as when I was rolling and brushing it on.
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Went thru 5 gal of latex just painting the inside of 14 ft by 24 ft 10 ft wall garage.