I don’t know if I’m having a stupid attack or spent too much time in the sun today (96 degrees). I trying to bevel a 2×12 to 53 degrees on the endcut and my circular saw only goes to 45. How do I do it?
Thanks,
John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Replies
Cut your line to the short point with the saw set to the compliment of the 53 (37), then set your saw to 90 and let it ride on the 37° bevel.
Tim
Cool trick! I'd never heard of that before.
Doug
Is this what you mean, Tim?
That's a great trick, and one I've never heard of before --- thanks!
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Yup that's it.
That is a cool trick.
Thanks!John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Tim you just made me look more like a pro....cool trick~! beats the carp pencil trick under the plate trick my boss you to do anyday. which works but is not even worth mentioning after seeing your trick. View Image View Image
Wouldn't you face cut it with a line down the edge and the board either clamped to or a table or the dangerously common way between your knees? Set saw at 90 and run that saw with the edge of it looking up rather than the face. Hmmmm... this may get complictated if you needed to finish it with a Pull Saw
Edited 8/12/2007 11:28 pm ET by justakid
I think I'm going to use Tim's trick with my board fastened to the sawhorses. It seems to be the easiest way.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
John,
Hopefully this isn't too stupid... ;)
Are you trying to leave a 53-degree bevel, or set your saw to 53 degrees off perpendicular?
If all you're trying to do is leave a 53-degree bevel on the board, it's as easy as setting your saw at the complement (90-53=37 degrees).
If you want to leave a 37-degree bevel, do as Tim described.
See the pic below.
View Image
I'm doing exactly what your first drawings show. I'm cutting one end of the 2x12 at 37 and need to cut the other at 53. I'll use Tim's trick.
On the second set of drawings, aren't those labeled backwards?John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
On the second set of drawings, aren't those labeled backwards?
No, they're dimensioned correctly; that's why I wanted to clarify what you were trying to do. The drawing shows the actual bevel on the end of the board.
The confusion arises from the fact that a "regular" cut on a circular saw or chop saw produces a bevel that is actually at 90 degrees (i.e. perpendicular) to the wide face of the board being cut. However, the bevel gauge on saws indicates 0 for this "regular" cut.
So, the actual bevel angle and the indicated saw blade angle are complements of each other (the angles sum to 90 degrees).
I have to have said it 100 times in ten years. . . Whatever the angle is you set on a skil saw or MS your cutting it's complement. If you set the saw to 22.5° you're cutting a 67.5°, if you set you're saw to 37° you're cutting a 53 ° If you do as Tim said you wind up cutting a true 37° bevel just like Ragnar17 said.http://www.josephfusco.org
http://joes-stuff1960.blogspot.com/
You don't even know how to use a saw........;-)Joe Carola
It might be nice if the angle gauges on saws did NOT reference the complement -- it would avoid a lot of confusion!
another option is if you just have one piece to do, simply follow a scribed line with a handsaw.
I thought about that. I've got 2-2x12's treated to do. I prefer a circular saw because the blade doesn't wander as much for me. I'll get to my cutting this weekend and I'm going to try Tim's idea first.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.