I’m about to loose a bid I put in and I think it’s in large part due to the drywalled ceiling I need to install. The HO built his house with his basement having 9′ ceilings so that he could later come along and finish off his basement to an 8 foot ceiling. In order to “drop” the ceiling to the 8′ level from the 9′ it presently is I have to do a ton of framing to lower the ceiling. That translates into materials and man hours for labor. It’s a pretty big hit costwise on my proposal. The HO does not want any kind of suspended ceiling look.
I got to thinking, isnt’ there a syttem where a metal “grid” could be suspended from the joists above and it hangs there, to which you can attach/finish drywall? I was thinking a suspended grid-like system, if there is such a thing would result in a lot less labor and consequently help me out on my price to him.
Replies
" isn't there a system where you can hang a metal suspended grid off of the joists and attach drywall to it.?..."
Yes there is. The system is manufactured by USG. I saw a demonstration of how fast and easy this system goes up. Demonstration was a JLC tool show convention held in Columbus Ohio 2 years ago. The guy doing the demo was a carpenter from Chicago. He told me he remodels upscale apartment buildings and has been using these techniques for over 10 years. I took a few sample pieces back to my local lumberyard here in the Pittsburgh/Ohio Valley region, and you would have thought that I was speaking Greek...they had no clue whatsoever!
But that system is definately out there...by USG.
Wish I could help you more...maybe someone from Chicago will chime in, or perhaps you can E-mail Myron Ferguson over at jlconline.com and he can help you.
Davo
Edited 1/29/2007 11:41 pm ET by Davo 304
Edited 1/29/2007 11:43 pm ET by Davo 304
Thanks for the great advice.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
Both USG and Domm? produce suspended drywall ceiling systems, that snap together pretty easily.
Another option is framing with 1 5/8" metal studs with stongbacks and kickers where needed. You should be able to get studs up to 12' long.
USG has their system shown on their website.
Check out a proffesional drywall supplier in your area to find suspended systems.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Thanks, Mike, quite appreciated and I'll check'er out.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
Go to the USG website and look up their handbook - chapter 2 has the suspended ceiling details with 1-1/2" channels. We use this all the time in commercial work. It would work fine in a basement.
Be sure and plan out any access panels you might need.
My guess is a suspended metal track to screw the drywall to isn't going to save you any money and that the reason the system is only used on commercial buildings or apartments with concrete ceilings is that it's much harder or not acceptable to use wood in those situations.
Why is the dropped ceiling framing going to be time consuming or costly? What are your spans?
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
I believe the advantages of a suspended system is that it only requires 2" of clearance for framing material and drywall, allowing for an extra couple of inches of ceiling height. That can be important in a basement project.
Not sure of a cost difference, but the above systems go together pretty fast and easy. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
I'm surprised at you ;-)He's got 9' unfinished ceilings, HO wants to finish @ 8'.....it's custom made for the usg suspended drywall system...it goes together just like acoustical grid, very fast, dead straight...no worries.....just 'cause it's typically a commercial thing don't mean it's bad
I think the suspended ceiling is prob the way to go, from what I'm hearing here it sounds pretty fast and economical. My church installed one as "clouds" over the pews and it looks great.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
I'm not against it. Honest. If it's useful for this situation I'd be all for it.
It's just that dropped ceilings are about the fastest framing that can be done. Heck, in the time it's taken me to write this and the original message one carp could have set up the laser and snapped lines on all the walls, framed the first 8'x12' section and had it ready to lift into place.
Around low-hanging ducts I'm not above spanning a pretty wide area with 3/4" ply. By my math, that's 1-1/4" higher than a 2" hanging track allows. Simply support it where practical by screwing blocks in between the ducts just high enough to reach with a 12" washer-head screw. Sometimes it involves studs turned sideways under the ply, or even a double layer of ply or sideways 2x6's to stiffen it up.
Steel studs are also easily fit into odd places and can be split to slide between very narrow spaces if there is a surface to then screw 'em to. Same goes for wood I-joists.
The hardest areas around ducts I usually frame up to, leaving the easier to work with shorter span to mess with.
It would be interesting to see the time and cost difference to use the hanging track vs. stick framing. Regardless, it would be a good idea to get a section of track and play around with.
Good hanging.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Under ducts Arnstrong has a sister system in which the spans do not have to have tie wire over a 6 foot span, you can tie it into their Ridid-X system (2x4 suspended grid for drywall).
It'll be time consuming because there are 12" ductboard trunks in the way, side by side and a few have a small space in between. It'll be a bear to nail to the joists and such. Also, it's a lot of cutting, a lot of wood. It's basically going to be about a 12' x 45' area that was to receive a wood framed ceiling for DW.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME