A SCORE! and a question – crown moulding
First the score – Stopped at ReStore in Elgin IL (the Habitat for Humanity place) and they had my baseboard!! Looks almost EXACTLY like the baseboard in my Sears house except that I think it’s oak and not pine like mine is but that’s OK because I’m trying to finish the upstairs. Oh happy puppy dance! 75c/foot and I have one piece that must be 12′ and 4 other pieces that are over my head ALOT, so maybe 7′. They are all 5 1/2inches deep, one piece of wood. Happiness & joy!
Now my 2nd question which is unrelated to the score – I have a Sears house and want to put crown moulding in the livingroom. I’m nervous about doing this myself because I don’t want to cheat & use the corner bits that you can get at Lowe’s. I would like the moulding to be mitered at the corners. I’m assuming this is a job for a professional, yes? So who do I look for? Is it a finish carpenter? Would they even bother with a job this small?
Besides, if you’re going to eat a creature alive, you have to expect a little screaming. It’s the carnivore’s dilemma.
Replies
This is your living room, not a place for a lst time crown job. Find someone who can do crown, and do it well. He may call himself a carpenter or a trim carpenter, does not matter. I'd check with my local LUMBER yard for 1, 2, or 3 recommendations, not HD or Lowes, ask if he'll work on a Sat. cause you'd like to be his helper, he may or may not take you up on it. I once did a complete bathroom remodel with the 70 year old retired home owner and it was wonderful. Friends to this day.
I'm assuming this is a job for a professional, yes? So who do I look for? Is it a finish carpenter? Would they even bother with a job this small?
If the crown molding is not "special" and you can get more of it if you find that you can't do it yourself after ruining a piece or 2, then it's at least worth a try. Of course, that assumes that you have a miter saw and a basic understanding of cutting miters, coping inside corners and the spring angle.
Otherwise, as you suspect, this is a job for a finish carpenter or a trim carpenter. Many handyman types can handle this kind of job too. In this economy, I would expect most contractors to be very willing to take smaller jobs than they usually do.
The best way to way to find someone competent is to get a recommendation from someone you know. You can even try talking to neighbors who had additions or remodels because there were probably trim carpenters working there at some point who may be looking for work.
If you can run baseboard then you can run crown... takes more thought... and planing... but there is plenty of info out ther so that you should be able to do this...
lowes/HD usually has a small compressor with 2 finish guns for under $80... yes you can hand cut it in a miter box... but look on craigs list if you don't have a 10" miter saw... home owner good saw should be $50 or so... look for one with a good blade... if you must harbor freight has new ones for under $100... so now for the cost of labor that you would have paid... you now own the tools to do the job...
A buddy of mine use to own a sears house... 2x3 laid flat for the walls... plywood inside.. he drywalled over it... steel windows.... trussed roof... we cut a bunch of them to make a tray ceiling in the living room and dineing area... just headered em out and cross braced em.... had a big steel S on the fireplace outside...
good luck
P
I agree with pelipeth, hire a pro and move onto other things with which you're more comfortable. Forty or more years have taught me this, as a fervent DIYer.
i'm in oswego , be glad to take a look for you.
Thanks you for your offer. Email on its way.
It may look like spring, it may feel like spring, it may even SMELL like spring but trust me, it ain't spring. sigh
Pelipeth has got it pegged:
Keep your eyes open while you're holding the dumb end (and saving yourself money).
Ask him to explain why he's cutting it upside-down and backwards, and not holding it flat to the saw table.
Why is he making those funny squiggly "cope cuts" with that skinny handsaw?
If the light goes on in your head, feel free to take on the spare bedroom. If not, make sure you save his card.
AitchKay
PS
Congrats on your score -- I love those old Sears houses!
AitchKay
Paint or stain grade?
Room size?
saturday afternoon or sunday would be fine
Will you even come out this far (I've been told that the world stops after Rt 59<G>)? Room size is 170" x 160", my ceiling is just over 8' tall, wall is plaster (plaster over plaster, no wood lathe) and I haven't bought any moulding yet. I want wood (hickory or oak maybe, maple is too light) but a more simple pattern. The really fancy stuff is for taller ceilings and Oak Park houses<G>.I plan on just using Varathane, unless there are really strenuous objections.
It may look like spring, it may feel like spring, it may even SMELL like spring but trust me, it ain't spring. sigh
Another fan of Sears homes here. There is a great one down the street from me.
So, why not clear pine like the rest of your trim?
As for the Varathane, it may be a little too clear to match the existing trim. Maybe an oil based varnish or urethane. You may need to test a few different stain/finish combinations. A good paint store can help.
Edited 2/17/2009 3:47 pm ET by JAlden
Clear pine wouldn't match what I've got. I take that back, it MIGHT match, after about 80 years. The pine that I've got so far has a red/gold look, after I stripped off the paint (idiots) and Varathaned it.The flooring is red oak, except for the maple in the kitchen. That's why I'm leaning towards oak or maybe hickory. Depends on what the moulding looks like, I've already ruled out big & ornate. Those look better on taller ceilings and in more elaborate house styles.
It may look like spring, it may feel like spring, it may even SMELL like spring but trust me, it ain't spring. sigh