Does anybody have photos of a properly installed water line (not with the piercing saddle, with a ball valve) for the refrigerator ice maker, and a parts list?????????
I looked for a past question/post but couldn’t find it.
Thank you very much.
RIP Bob Syvanen
Replies
Google is your friend ............. <G>
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/refrig/icemaker.htm
thousands of other links listed................
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
These days I like the braided hose hookups. You have a valve fixed to the wall and a factory assembled hose screws onto the compression fitting on both ends. They seem a lot more forgiving than copper tubing you are flexing and certainly better than that nylon tube they sell.
norm,
good choice on not using the saddle valve, I hate them too!
Locate an accessible/convenient spot on your cold water supply line, shut off and drain the line, cut and install a "T" fitting into the line and add a 4-6" stub off the "T" and install your ball valve there,then run your icemaker line off the new valve to the ice maker, you can use a toilet type shut-off valve , either an angled or straight valve as suits your circumstance. Have you tried the Shark Bite fittings yet? No soldering and they come sized for 1/2" or 3/4" copper, makes things much easier if you're not able to get the main line completely dry enough to solder, they're a little more exspensive, but a LOT less labor/time to install.
1- 1/2" Shark Bite "T"
1- 6" long 1/2" copper tube
1- push connect 1/4 turn ,angled/straight, 1/2"x 3/8" compression shut-off valve (BrassCraft is one brand )
All the above assume push connect type connections except the compression fitting, if you can't locate all the fittings needed in that type thewn go back to good old sweat connections.
Geoff
Another thing that works well is the dual outlet valve. If your old cold water valve under the sink is starting to stick or corrode (or not) you can replace the valve with the new dually and hook up. That's assuming you're taking your frig water supply from under the sink.
Norm,
I like the braided hose if the entire length is exposed and can be inspected. I still use copper tubing if snaking thru/under cabinets from the sink cab to the refer location. With copper, provide a loop that can spiral out when the refer is pulled out from the wall.
The refrigerators I've dealt with all have 1/4" compression fittings (or maybe 1/4" FPT) - so you want to use 1/4" tubing or hose with 1/4" end fittings. This means that (if you go with one) a dual angle stop should have a 1/4" compression fitting outlet for the refer connection, not 3/8".
Jim x 3
" Norm,I like the braided hose if the entire length is exposed and can be inspected. I still use copper tubing if snaking thru/under cabinets from the sink cab to the refer location. With copper, provide a loop that can spiral out when the refer is pulled out from the wall."Yup, agreed, I was only talking about the part behind the fridge.
They do make a nice recessed box with either a standard valve or a 1/4 turn ball valve. Then braided. I am using plastic on mine and ran it through a piece of pex for about a foot off the floor ( not using the afore mentioned box).