I WANT TO ADD WINDOWS ON THE SECOND FLOOR OF MY BALLOON FRAME HOUSE. WHAT IS THE PROPER WAY TO FRAME THEM OUT? I CANNOT RUN JACK/KING STUD ALL THE WAY TO SILL PLATE. WHAT WOULD THE BEST WAY BE TO SUPPORT THE HEADER?
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Any way to post a photo or a wall diagram? There must be a reason you can't run king studs all the way to the sill plate but you don't provide a clue as to why.
Also, as an aside, a message in all caps is the interent equivalent of shouting. Just type normally and you'll be understood just fine.
Runnerguy
Think about trying to fish a 16 to 20 foot long 2x4 or 2x6 down to the sill plate on a balloon frame.
That's why the OP says it's not an option.
I'm taking for granted that you are familiar with balloon-framing?The best reward for a job well done is the opportunity to do another.
There must be a reason you can't run king studs all the way to the sill plate but you don't provide a clue as to why.
Second floor of a balloon frame seems a pretty good clue to me.
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
Second floor of a balloon frame seems a pretty good clue to me.
LMAO!
I was trying to be polite, but you nailed it!The best reward for a job well done is the opportunity to do another.
If this is an older place maybe he should open up one of the originals to see how it was done.
Might be an opportunity to use up alot of scrap.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Need to know:First and foremost, is it a bearing wall (eave end) or curtain wall (gable end)?
How is the ceiling above the window hung? Let-in or on top of top plates? Are ceiling joists perpendicular or parallel to the wall?
How wide is the window?
How large a roof and ceiling span is bearing over the window?
What are the snow-load requirements where you live?
Is the ceiling above usable attic space or no load besides the ceiling itself?All these things determine size of header needed.As far as how to hang that header, how about cutting existing studs out to accept header, making them the de-facto jacks and cripples, then scab something alongside those on the outboard side to tie it together.SteveSorry, meant to address to OP, not calvin.
Edited 1/19/2008 6:22 pm by mmoogie
Good thing you qualified to whom it was to.
Because I don't know a damn thing about any of the questions that have been asked.
thanksA Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
bump
Peace on.
Greetings MRGEIGH,
as a first time poster Welcome to Breaktime.
Others also should be along before the days end to help you with your questions.
Cheers
Peace on.
Depending on the roof load a header hanger might be the best option, I believe Simpson makes them.
Another option is to cut in a header. Use the studs already there and notch out the inside portion so the header would be nailed in flush with the framing. Once again roof loading needs to be addressed. Would a 1 ply LVL carry the weight?
Woods favorite carpenter
Not enough information submitted on on your part to really give any answers yet.
What sized windows?
Gable end window location or bearing wall?
How is the second floor ledger attached ( notched into studs or nailed on)?
Spacing and size of existing studs?
Area of roof and size of load that the header will be expected to carry?
(this will depend on your location so it is helpful if you fill out your profile)
Type of existing roof and how many layers existing roofing are there now? (Goes to roof load question)
Try to answer as many of these as you can and the helpful people here will try to give you some answers to your original question.
In your house, how tall are teh second floor walls?
How wide wil this window be?
What sort of snow load do you deal with?
what is the top plate you have now?
Are you stripping the interior finish of the wall or trying to do this surgically and not get into the plaster?
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One approach I have seen used is to make two headers, one above the window and one below it. Run them all the way to full length studs beyond the opening, then run single trimmers on those studs, and also doubles at the opening edges, for good trim nailing. This way the roof load is transferred to the cut studs below from the cut studs above.
Only problem is that you lose bending strength in the wall if the window is too wide. If the walls are plaster and lath, screwing instead of nailing the connections together can save a lot of grief.
Bill
The best way is to extend the header beyond the window opening and fasten it to the nearest common studs. These then become the "king" studs. Do the same with a doubled sill. This creates a wider opening. Fill in the opening with a doubled "trimmers" at each side of the window.
You will need hardware to connect the header with your new "king" studs.
If you don't like the hardware connection, then the next option is to extend the header one "common" stud further. The creates a direct transfer of weight to the foundation. The common studs carry the header and when you toenail the header to the next common stud, it prevents roll out.
Attached is a pic showing the concept for extending past the first studs to create a direct transfer to the foundation.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07