Somewhere in the very near future, I plan to have a screened in porch added to the back of our house. Local code requires any structure attached to the house must be on a foundation, 4′ down and all the way around – no pylons (Old confirmed, discussion, please don’t rehash.) FYI – we live near Chicago.
That being said, if I’m going to dig out for a foundation, why not add a crawlspace. And if I add a crawlspace, why not just add a basement room. Of course, the biggest hinderance would be cost. I can afford to do the porch and the basement without finishing it right off the bat. I can finish it later as time and money allow. I currently have a sump pump on the other side of the house for the current basement.
What precautions do I need to account for if we go with this plan? Do I have to have access from the current basement to the new, like a cut-out doorway? Do I need electrical? What about water removal, would I need another sump? I understand that we don’t have the code book in front of us for the discussion, I’m just looking more for generalizations.
thanks
Joe
Replies
My first thought has to do with your heating envelope.
When you say "SCREEN porch" I imagine something that is open all year and therefore outside of your heating envelope so you would need to heavily insulate the floor of the addition. Otherwise you are just losing heat through the floor and may develop a situation where frost could get under your footings.
Also going with "screen porch" you would need to guard against water coming in through the screens and penetrating the floor. Which means you would need to have a water tight floor in the addition that drains somewhere.
In my experience, screen porches and simple covered porches are usually always on piers.
"sunrooms" and "sun porches" on the other hand are often considered occupied spaces and treated as such where the foundation is concerned, whether they are heated or not.
If this is indeed a "screen porch" and piers are still not allowed, I should think you may be allowed to go with a simple trench foundation below frost level but keep the interior and exterior grades up high enough so frost cannot penetrate to the bottom on either side.
DC
edit:
BTW I just reread your post and see you said "pylon" which is an above ground type of column or pole....I just assumed you meant "pier" which is a vertical foundation type.
Edited 4/8/2009 3:37 pm ET by Dreamcatcher
Pier is correct, sorry.
From what I understand, the city wants anything attached at the roof to have a foundation, not just piers. Might be overkill, but it does make sense.
We are looking for just a 1 1/2 season room (new term, do you like it?) not a 3 three season porch. I don't need it heated, spring, fall and most of summer are pretty good in Chicago. We have a problem with bugs but we love to eat outside. I love the idea of opening the patio door and not having to worry about bugs coming in or kids running away.
Yes a simple trench would be easiest, 48" down and no need to dig out the middle. But I'm envisioning outdoor space and storage space all in one.
A pier is a type of foundation that can go as deep as you want it.My main concern would be that a scree porch is going to allow wind driven water to blow in, so the floor of the porch must be designed as a roof system for eh basement room also.
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What you want can be done....but it ain't gonna be cheap.Cheaper options for storage may be to finish off an attic, build an out building like a shed or pole barn, add a second story room to your house, get a rental storage unit, or have a garage sale.But if money isn't an issue, go with the basement bump out, waterproof the deck, put on a roof, and consider using windows instead of just open screens.I did a sunporch not long ago set on a trench wall foundation where we were able to acquire some nice 6' wide vinyl sliding patio doors with screens (clearanced for $100 ea.). With some minor modifications, we used as large operable windows set 18" above the floor on three sides. We tiled the floor - sloped to a center drain, used rubber base board, planked the inside with fiber cement board, and zoned the heat. Now it serves as a 3 season room but in the summer all the "windows" can be open to have a breeze. I suppose you could grill in there but that wasn't the intention and as far as I know isn't done.DC
...anything attached at the roof to have a foundation...
Does it have to be attached at the roof?
~ Ted W ~
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Does it have to be attached at the roof?
One of the main goals is to allow the kitchen to open up to the porch. Unattached would make that difficult.
Ted - is any of this project something in you area of expertise? Or are my ideas a little scary?
I wouldn't call it expertise, but I know most of the elements of what you're describing, having been invloved in one part or another at one time or another. I don't think your idea is scarry at all. However, by the time you do the full foundation and roof extension, you may as well put in windows, heat and insulation for a complete room addition. ~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
Exposed beam-and-plank ceilings allow for lower eaves, which, combined with large overhangs, give a lot of protection from wind-driven rain.
A tile floor over a decent membrane takes care of the rest of the water, and you'll probably want to use sprayed-in foam to maximize ceiling height downstairs.
PT framing would minimize the repair costs of any leakage you might suffer down the line, if you're really worried about that.
Go for it!
Joe, I sent you an email. Let me know if you don't recieve it, okay?
Thanks, Ted
~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.net
See my work - TedsCarpentry.com