All,
any suggestions or tricks of the trade in adding hardware to existing cabinetry (pulls and knobs)? I want to make sure that everything is consistently placed and lines up level.
there are a couple of templates available online, has anyone used them, or have one to recommend?
thanks in advance.
Replies
For hardware installs on new cabinetry, I typically make up my own templates. I actually have quite a collection going from different installs throughout the years. Some see regular use....others, just the one time.
Depending on the doors/drawers and knobs/pulls, they`ll layout differently in many instances. Best bet is to set them so that they look and feel most comfortable to the user.
If these are existing cabinets however, you may be locked in on placement to some degree. (i.e. many pulls are drilled at 3" centers....others are not.) Are you purchasing hardware to work with the existing holes? Depending on how much you want to vary placement of new hardware from that of the old, often times escusions (sp?) are available as add ons for particular styles and manufacturers. This will allow you a liitle play.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
JD,
the cabinets currently do not have any holes/hardware and I will be drilling all holes new. I am the second owner of the house, and believe the cabinets to be either oak or maple. I have looked through a lot of magazines to get a sense of "common" knob placement, and feel I have a pretty good sense of what feels/looks right.
My concern is creating a template from stock that is perfectly square.
Thanks.
Perfectly square? I dunno about "perfectly square"....but the ones I make out of scrap stock are square enough that the human eye can`t detect any imperfection.
I usually make them up out of 1 x 4 scraps.....maybe 8-10 inches in length.....obviously, this will depend on your particular placements. I square up the ends and screw 1 x 3s to one long edge and another to one of the crosscut edges allowing the stock to overhang the thickness on either side. (this way the template works for right or left doors.) Layout and predrill the template as knobs/pulls will land on doors.
I use a spring clamp to hold template in place while drilling. I also use a drill bit slightly larger than the thickness of the screw. Gives me a little play should I have to make up for any imperfections in my drilling.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
i use the rockler jigs too. There so cheap they make it worth your while to buy it. I intall my knobs about 3" up from the bottom edge of the door and center on the stile. No special reason Its just how I do it.
I use an inexpensive plastic template like this one:
http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=5877&cookietest=1
Home Depot also carries similar templates. I've also made templates from a piece of maple, but I think the plastic ones are easier to use.
Mark the location on the door face with a pencil or permanent marker and use an awl to make an indentation so the drill bit doesn't wander. When drilling, be sure to stay square to the door otherwise you may have a hard time getting the screw started.
Knobs are easier to install than pulls, but I happen to prefer pulls and used them on all of my kitchen cabinets.
The exact location is not as important as ensuring that all knob/pulls are in the same place.
-Don
Good advice so far.
Not a bad idea to test where you're going to put each pull/knob--this will help you determine what sort of (and/or how many) jig/template(s) to make up.
It's little things, like always centering k/p on drawers vertically--this can be both good and bad on taller drawers. Then there's the question of treating everything the same, whether solid or panel construction (the middle of the stile-rail joint can sometimes be hard to find on an all lumber drawer front. Also, put hardware on the dummies/fakes or not (my opinion: no working hardware on non-working parts).
Note, too, that you may need a different jig for the upper cabinets than the base cabinets, too--even when the hardware is in the same 'spot' and is the same type (this can be frustrating to discover 2 or 3 doors into the uppers <weary sigh>).
Whatever you do, make or buy a template. Use a block on the back for a good clean exit hole. Use a brad point bit helps too. And do the drilling with the doors hanging and open. Less chance of drilling the wrong side.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
And do the drilling with the doors hanging and open. Less chance of drilling the wrong side.
NO KIDDING! I mean good advice.
Amana,
I had a customer ask what the rule was for proper location of cabinet pulls. It led to searching alot of magazines to see if there was any "rule" to drilling pulls in the proper location. We found it was really worth searching for the style cabinet/pull combination to see what looked best- you can only drill them once!
One "rule" that tends to work is centering the pull on the stile and align it horizontally with the line of the raised portion of the panel edge (on a raised panel type door). But trust me don't start drilling to you look through at least a dozen kitchen magazines and find your doors- it's worth the research.
Use some double-backed tape to temporarily adhere the knobs to the cabinets, so you can step back and get a sense for how they look. The 3M "Command" tape strips can be used if you're afraid that regular DB tape will damage the finish.
happy?