We’ve got an open porch on the back of our house and I am planning on closing it in with windows and a door on the two open sides. The floor is concrete and of course sloped away from the house. The height from floor to current ceiling on the proposed wall furthest from the house varies from 8 foot 10 3/8 on one side to 8 foot 10 7/8 in the center to 8 foot 10 3/4 on the other end.
If I build this wall on the floor and make it square, then raise it up, how should I make it fit tight against the ceiling due to the varying heights?
Also, since the other wall that runs perpendicular to the house will be on a slanted floor with a 1 1/4″ drop, what would be the best way to build that plumb?
Replies
Either build your walls at the shortest dimension and shim or mount both plates and cut the studs to fit.
Plumb the ends-fill in the rest.
I'm assuming the rest of the porch structure can handle what you intend to do to it.
Remember b/4 you build the wall on the deck-tipping it into place takes more room than the finished opening you are going into. You might have to build it an inch short and then shim.....or place a bottom or top plate and and another plate to the wall you're building.
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
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I figured I could possibly build it on the floor, then drag it and lift it so the bottom would be supported on some temporary supports outside the concrete, but just a bit lower. Then lift it the extra inch or two into place on the floor. I want to avoid tonailing if I can.
While that may work-sliding it out and tipping it up-most often a good fit finished is a bit hard to get into that opening. The fall in the floor will not help you. It is much easier to put a plate on the ceiling or floor, build the wall to fit that and slide it into the then finished (and shorter) opening.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
<I want to avoid tonailing if I can.>Why?Just wondering. Toenailing by hand is a bit slow, I guess. But either by hand or by gun it's an effective way to frame. j
My Senco gun freqently splits the studs if I get it a little off center. How about this idea? Mount the plates, then install spacers between the stud positions at the top and bottom plates, then nail to the spacers straight thru the studs. Maybe a little unconventional, but for this hobby framer it may be ok.... No?
If your studs are very dry or recycled from previous applications they will split if you toenail to the narrow edge. An easier and better way (those two don't often go together) is to toenail through the wide face of the stud into the plate. Two nails from one side and one in the middle from the other make a good connection. If you don't frame a lot one thing that will make this more efficient is to cut yourself a block sized to fit between the studs (14.5 inches for 16"o.c. spacing) and use it as a spacer while driving the first two toenails. I hope your project turns out well. j
Thanks Jeffy. I never thought about the temp supporting spacer idea.