I made a cherry countertop in a small alcove. I am about to install cherry backsplashes around the three sides, and plan to screw to the framing and plug the holes, but on one side there is nothing behind the sheetrock to screw the backsplash to. It’s an old house with irregular framing. Any comments or suggestions on what to attach the wood to the sheetrock with? I assume adhesive would work, but which adhesive? Thanks.
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Same situation in a den a few months ago. Cherry counters and backsplash.
PL Premium and some judiciosly applied clamps and battens for a day.
Workin' so far.
Jim
I usually attach the backsplash to the counter, and fabricate it so there is a scribing element at the top. Once it's stuck to the cabs, I've never had to worry about attaching it to the wall.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
IMHO, using wood of any kind for a back splash is not a good idea. Interesting and "woodworky" but a bad idea just the same.
Need a solid smooth surface to wipe down now and again won't absorb water.
Not saying you shouldn't do it, just don't think it's such a good idea in the long run.
>>IMHO, using wood of any kind for a back splash is not a good idea. Interesting and "woodworky" but a bad idea just the same.
Need a solid smooth surface to wipe down now and again won't absorb water.<<
Sorta' depends on where the backsplash is. Mine was in a den as part of a built-in, think "furniture" - interesting and woodworky - like the rest of the room.
Don't know where smslaw's is located, he said "alcove" in OP, but that could be anywhere in the house.
I would agree, probably not the best idea in a kitchen or bath where wet is normal and frequent.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
The area is above a second oven. The space is used for baking, primarily. No sink or other source of water. The countertop has been installed for months with no problems. I decided to put in the backsplash before being reminded by the chief baker. The countertop gets wiped down with a damp cloth. Finish is many coats of Waterlox
I cheated a little bit when I did the same. I used PL premium and a bit of 2P-10 (wood superglue, essentially.) I went liberal with the PL, and just used the 2P-10 at some judicious points for some quick grab. No clamps involved!
Dustin
It'll be fine.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I've installed a lot of things like that with silicone, or siliconized caulk... it's got a pretty good quick grip, and there's usually some around. I, personally, wouldn't use PL Premium there because it swells up as it cures.http://www.tvwsolar.com
We'll have a kid
Or maybe we'll rent one
He's got to be straight
We don't want a bent one
He'll drink his baby brew
From a big brass cup
Someday he may be president
If things loosen up
>>...wouldn't use PL Premium there because it swells up as it cures.<<
Does it really? I didn't know that.
I have used it for a while and never noticed swelling. Of course, I have seen squish out at joist tops, etc. but I never considered swelling. Most of my aps are buried behind / under surfaces where it doesn't make a difference.
Good thing I kept the beads / dots toward the center of the backsplash......coudda been a disaster.
Now Gorilla Glue ----I know about that stuff.....
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
It is moisture cured like Gorilla glue. If it's really well pinned down pieces will stay put, but sometimes it's easier to use something else.http://www.tvwsolar.com
We'll have a kid
Or maybe we'll rent one
He's got to be straight
We don't want a bent one
He'll drink his baby brew
From a big brass cup
Someday he may be president
If things loosen up
I know it is moisture cured, but does it really swell during curing?
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I am not that sure that it does expand.I have not used it in a critical location like this, but from my experience it is far, far from something like gorrilia glue.But it might move a 1/16 or 2 and gaposis would not look good here. Any place that I have used it that small of movement would not have cause any problem..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Yes, and the more moisture, the more it volumnizes. Put it on some wet framing, it sorta bubbles, and it definitely fills gaps. And, PL does recommend mechanically fastening until cured, then you can pull the nails<G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
We'll have a kid
Or maybe we'll rent one
He's got to be straight
We don't want a bent one
He'll drink his baby brew
From a big brass cup
Someday he may be president
If things loosen up
Never knew that.
>>PL does recommend mechanically fastening until cured, then you can pull the nails<<
I don't think I'll pull any nails, they look happy where they are.
Guess my dry cherry, dry paint and batten clamps saved me on the backsplash.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Same here... I've never noticed any swelling with PL
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I refuse to accept that there are limitations to what we can accomplish. Pete Draganic
Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day. Matt Garcia
Construction adhesive or Smart Clips
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/BSC-0200/Smart-Clip-without-screws
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
For something like this, no real load on it, I would use Locktite PowerGrab.
It is sticky enough that you just need to push the backsplash in place. No need for clamps or bracing.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
I probably would have too, but I ran out, PL on hand.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.