Adhisive, laminate on a verticle surface
I’m looking at replacing our backsplash with a laminate (Chemetal’s SS). the wall surface is plaster
if I was doing a horizontal I gues I would be using a contact cement.
with a verticle surface where I would have to be getting it exact the first time with a contact, …
any suggestions for what type of adhisive I could use with some adjusting time, but won’t let the panel slide?
this is what their site says
ADHESIVES: Chemetal laminates may be laminated with many of the conventional adhesives normally used with plastic laminates, such as many contact cements. The use of heat-activated adhesives is not recommended. Always check with your adhesive supplier to make sure the adhesive you select is suitable for your application. In all cases, the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions should be followed as to the use of the adhesive and substrate preparation. To clean off adhesives, use a solvent like alcohol, benzene, naphtha or mineral spirits. Do not use ammonia, abrasive cleaners or pads, or harsh solvents. Do not use solvents that attack lacquers. It is recommended that you test your adhesive system and/or cleaning agents with a sample piece of metal.
Replies
I tried to use construction adhesive on a vert. wall and it looked good for 30 minutes.then it started warping and pulling from the wall. What a mess. I used contact cement after that.
Keith
I'd build a new backsplash from a ply substrate, then contact cement and trim chemetal.Glue on with const. adhesive.
bobl - I worked on a bunch of mica stuff a few years ago including some built ins - vertical included. We always used contact cement, on metal faced micas too. I would be very reluctant to try it on plaster. Try reading the can or contacting the manufacturer first. When you have a piece that absolutely needs to go "there" the first time and fit, we used to dry fit it to perfection, then get some paper between the mica and the substrate. Paper bags work pretty good, so do thin strips of wood, dry mica, can even use newsprint, but it's weak. It's only a barrier until you get the piece positioned correctly, then let it catch a hair to lock it in place, remove the paper slowly and roll the mica out.
That said, I would probably apply something over the plaster before I did the mica, plywood, flakeboard etc. My preference would be to fasten the substrate first, then glue to it. I could understand why you might want to glue the panel to the substate then glue it to the wall too.
Good luck.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
Is this a standard laminate with the phenolic backer? Our company has used liquid nails to put up literally hundreds of full height laminate backsplashes with no problems whatsoever. The adhesive gives you the "slip" nessesary to get under the uppers, around outlets, & any other tricky areas. Of coarse I would try it on a piece of scrap 1st.
trowelable floor adhesive, 1/16" square notch. Slip, grab and killer hold all in one.
I would go with contact cement. Liquid nails seems like it would work if you spread it thin enough, but I've never tried it. It takes alot longer to dry.
tanks
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
ive installed a few laminate backsplashes including a brushed stainless which was actually a thin aluminum on plastic laminate
i made patterns out of flooring underlay(1/4 inch), laminated them with contact cement and stuck the pieces to the wall with liquid nails
the ends of the pieces that were exposed, i trimmed out with aluminum ceramic tile trim