I just read in a FHB online article about an author’s technique where the exposure of bevel siding is adjusted by up to +/- 1/4″ in order to avoid notching for window openings (on x8″ boards).
I really like the idea of avoiding notching using this technique but am sceptical.
Who has done this and is it noticeable? If so, what deviation from the nominal exposure is not noticeable in your experience.
Replies
At one time, story poles were made for clapboard and other horizontal siding. Having the rows come even with the top and bottom of windows was considered the correct way to install the siding. The story pole was used to mathematically divide the courses of siding not only at the windows, but above and below. You would make up any differences over several courses about 1/8" at a time. If you needed to make up 1/2", you would do it over either several or all the courses. You aren't likely to see that four rows are 4 1/8" and the others are 4", even less if eight rows are 4 1/16".
In the old days, windows didn't vary as much as they do today. Often the outside of the casings were a factor of 4 and the windows were all the same size. Today, a wall may contain several windows of varying heights. In many situations, it just doesn't work mathematically. It would be visible if the rows below the windows are all 3 7/8" and those at the window were 4 1/8". The same would be true if you didn't plan ahead and tried to make up an inch in only three or four rows. It seems there is always at least one window that won't fit the math and has to have the row notched. Some of us "old school" carpenters will try to make the facade of a home evenly spaced with the windows. This establishes the elevation of the rows and they aren't changed as you go around the corner. Windows that don't come the same as those on the front are fit around as needed. The courses don't change with each side of the house. Dividing out the rows won't eliminate the need to notch around the windows. The preceding course will have to be notched even if the next course comes out flush.
Story poles are still very useful on horizontal siding. When using spacer gauges, it's pretty easy to have one side start to gain on another. Small mistakes are cumulative and siding rows can get out of level quickly. It's always a good idea to check the rows with the windows about half way up, whether they are figured to come even or not.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks for the explanation guys. If I do have to notch and can manage to do it on one board only, what will look better - notch at the top or notch at the bottom?
My contention is, if you make it too regular, and fit it all nice and tight, your neighbor will invariably say, "wow, is that vinyl?" to you about your carefully applied replaned beautiful old capboards.
I always vary spacing to fit the situation - maybe I'm used to old houses, but I think it's invisible.
Forrest - happened to me
<Edit> - seen two big old two-story houses in Nova Scotia where the reveal was smoothly graduated from 5" at the bottom to 2" at the top, supposedly to make the wall look taller!
Edited 10/17/2007 7:18 am by McDesign
>> My contention is, if you make it too regular, and fit it all nice and tight, your neighbor will invariably say, "wow, is that vinyl?" to you about your carefully applied replaned beautiful old capboards.
I'll leave some of the knots unsealad so that everyone knows its not vinyl! ;)
>> Seen two big old two-story houses in Nova Scotia where the reveal was smoothly graduated from 5" at the bottom to 2" at the top, supposedly to make the wall look taller!That is cool. Did you like the way it looked?
Edited 10/17/2007 8:15 am ET by canoehead2
Looked cool - a pic is in our honeymoon pictures - we stayed there - I'll see if I can track it down.
Forrest
"My contention is, if you make it too regular, and fit it all nice and tight, your neighbor will invariably say, "wow, is that vinyl?" to you about your carefully applied replaned beautiful old capboards."
I agree 100 percent. I always make sure the spacing DOES vary ... a quarter-inch or sometimes even more on 5-inch exposure. It's that slight irregularity that visually enlivens a structure.
Consider the petals of a flower, or other forms in nature. All the same, but each unique. This is what seems natural to the human eye.
And part of what appears so UNNATURAL about vinyl siding.
Also, as the human brain processes a repeated image or pattern, it tends to interpret it as uniform. I think that mental interaction is part of the "enlivening" aspect. Gestalt theories, as I recall. "Closure" is another example; that's when the brain "completes" a shape or form, even when a portion isn't actually there.
Allen
On 8" boards a quarter inch is generally invisible, and an eight inch totally so. It's not so important to avoid notching around windows, but it can look really ugly if there is, eg, a bump-out of some sort, and the bottom course is only a third of a plank. For something like that it's worth planning.
Also keep in mind that the starting point of the bottom course can often be adjusted up or down a half-inch or more.
I was taught that same technique way back in the 70's and have used it successfully whenever appropriate.
All too often carpenters get caught up in the technical science of numbers and forget that there often is an element of art that comes into play on many of their installations.
My philosophy is: "I it looks right, it is right." Basically, I feel that if you have to pull out a tape or a level to figure out that something is wrong....then it's probably right enough.
jim
fka (formerly known as) blue
Most of the siding I did was with a 6" exposure. I always used a story pole to determine if varying the exposure would look correct. Sometimes only the bottom or te the top would work out, if I was lucky they both would.High windows give you more latitude to vary exposure. I never varied more than 1/16" until I got above the second floor windows.Then I might go to 1/8". I did not mind notching if the notch wasn't deep, 1 1/2" or less was okay.
mike
You can easily 'fudge' an 1/8" per row, and sometimes even more depending on the exposure, and it would take a mighty keen eye to detect.
I would personally rather notch the top row if push comes to shove, to have the 'thinnest' piece under the window.
Let's not confuse the issue with facts!