*
It has been a long while since I yanked a pump, but the only thing I would add if you are doing it yourself is to use a foot brake. Sort of a rachet like device that allows the black plastic pipe ( hell I can’t remember but I think it is flex pvc) to pass up but grabs it if you let it fall back down.
I think we used a tripod and a chain fall. Pull up, footbrake holds as you move the fall grip back down,m ten feet at a time. NO FUN and SLOW.
Going down easier.
Just remember that it matters how high you gotta lift the water and how much pressure you are looking for in addition to how many gph.
Remember: Will’s Rule: there is nothing worse in life than a house with low water pressure. You get to be reminded of it every day.
Call the pump man.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Listeners write in about haunted pipes and building-science tomes, and they ask questions about roof venting and roof leaks.
Featured Video
How to Install Exterior Window TrimHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
I plan on pulling out the jet pump in my well and replacing it with a submersible. The county watermaster indicated I should use steel pipe on the submersible to absorb the start up torque of the motor. The info on the pump doesn't mention type of material, but a couple of references to submersible pumps on the Internet refer to rigid PVC or poly pipe and the fellow next door said they used some type of plastic pipe with his well pump. Any experience and/or recommendations on piping. (I will probably only use a 1/2 horsepower pump as the specs indicate that with the water level 40' down, the half horse will give 13.6gpm while going to a three quarter horse only gains a little over an additional gpm - which in either case is well over double what the existing 3/4hp jet pump is supposed to put out.) If the galvanized 1 1/4 pipe for the downflow on the existing jet pump is salvageable, I may well use it, however.
What is the recommendation for a safety rope for the submersible pump - nylon, poly, or something else?
Lifting about 60' of 1 1/4 inch steel down pipe and 1 1/2 steel supply pipe should be fun. Fortunately, I have the frame for a small 10' gantry crane that I can position over the well to attach a come-along. Any suggestions for the easiest way to pull piping from a well. (I suppose I could put a pulley on the gantry and attach a line from the pipe to the tractor instead of using the come-along...) I would particularly like suggestions for the easiest device to grip the pipe for pulling and also for securing the pipe while I change the position of the pulling grip. Was thinking about using some of the chain link fence hardware and/or a clamp used for guy wires on poles, but perhaps there is something better. Would prefer not spending a lot of time loosening and tightening bolts on the devices securing the pipe, but would just as soon not have the pipe end up at the bottom of a 130 foot well, either.
(Well casing is a little over 6" inside diameter, static water level approximately 32' below top of casing at present, I don't know how far down the jet "nozzle" is, but I am assuming that it is perhaps 50' to 60' or more. I am assuming that I will have to take apart the pipe sections as they come out of the well.)
Thanks.
*casey.. you got too many questions.. this is well country here.. good wells are about 200 feet... some as shallow as 90.. some as deep as 500..but ...most of the wells were serviced by plumbers until about 10 years ago.. now there are one or two well works guys.. they don't use no steel pipe.. just black poly water pipe.. and i think the safety is SS. stranded cable... looks about 3/16 inch..they all have special pulling rigs with a tri-pod set up.. check it out ... might be worth your while to hire it out...15 years .... 2d pump , three sets of wires, one new solid state control...3/4 hp submersible...the old one was 1/2 hp..there are anti -slap stand-off poly wheels every 50 feet or so
*Casey, I've never heard of using steel pipe for a submersible pump, I've only used continuous poly pipe. Use a length equal to the existing pipe you now have if it's serving you well. (that's not a pun)Nylon rope is fine.Gabe
*Casey, my well drillers use continuous black poly pipe and polypropylene rope, and we regularly set pumps at 600'. I'd be concerned with fatigue stress at the joints with galv. pipe on a submersible pump and the associated start-up torque. The anti-slap stand-offs sound like a good idea, but I've never seen them used around here. Doesn't sound like you're going down very far, anyway.My 2d worth, Bill
*I'd agree with continuous black poly and nylon rope (poly rope is fine but harder to tie a knot in). I've used steel and PVC pipe but the joints are a pain. It is too easy to drop the whole assembly as you manuveur on another length of pipe. Keep that safety rope tied to a car or tree. If you use SS cable, go SS the whole way - no galvinized shackle or brass eye splice thimble or aluminum crimps - get them at the marine store like Westmarine. Otherwise you can galvinic corrision between dissimilar metals.To lift the old pipe, I'd use a pipe hitch (look in a good knot book) using nylon or a laid rope below each coupler AND keep another line on the other pipe belt AND suspenders.
*Pulled my first pump at 156' with come along, backhoe, clamp, set down, grab another bite--agony! Got two big guys to help me lower new one and the beer and pizza costs were staggering.Get the pump truck--right tool for the job and all that. My guy swears by the PVC and he walks on water, so i believe... Last one he replaced for me took 45 min. from drive-in to coffee. Also only installs 2-wire, which he sells, guaranteed a year labor/parts. He'll install 3-wire w/ control box if pressured, but no guarantees of labor.
*I've always seen black water pipe, and never seen an issue with it. I would think hard pipe would be a royal pain. Wepulled a pump that was about 400'. I could just imagine how much fun this would be with solid pipe. I've seen mostly poly rope, though I would imagine the SS cable would be really handy in the event the was some trouble pulling the pump up.Go with the anti-slap rings too.
*It has been a long while since I yanked a pump, but the only thing I would add if you are doing it yourself is to use a foot brake. Sort of a rachet like device that allows the black plastic pipe ( hell I can't remember but I think it is flex pvc) to pass up but grabs it if you let it fall back down.I think we used a tripod and a chain fall. Pull up, footbrake holds as you move the fall grip back down,m ten feet at a time. NO FUN and SLOW.Going down easier.Just remember that it matters how high you gotta lift the water and how much pressure you are looking for in addition to how many gph.Remember: Will's Rule: there is nothing worse in life than a house with low water pressure. You get to be reminded of it every day.Call the pump man.
*If you overhorsepower for your use then the pump will cycle to much and burn the switch or not run long enough to cool itself back down. Tourque arrestors=yes. Also check casing size and size pump diameter accordingly. Alot of 3-1/4" pumps dow 3-1/2" casing around here that needed to be smashed to bits and drilled through. Keith C
*Yep use the black poly water pipe . use the tractor and pully ,easier to let out the clutch than pump the comealong . we used poly or nylon rope on my dads well . tape or zipty the rope and wire to the pipe every 15-20 foot . Don