Air tool nailing for bevel cedar siding?
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Are there any pneumatic nailers for installing beveled cedar siding? If so who are the manufacturers? I have to install 13,000 linear feet of the stuff. Last job I hand nailed 11,000 feet. took a while. came out beautifully though. Thank you for any and all information. david
Replies
How about a coil siding nailer?
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-AN611-4-Inch-2-Inch-Siding/dp/B00004YOJU/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1202616057&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-NV65AH-2-Inch-Siding-Nailer/dp/B0000225JZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1202616087&sr=1-2
coil siding nailers..
FRH framers w/ depth control in stick or coil...
either types Hitachie, Bostich or Max...
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I haven't done much of the bevel, however I did a pretty large section of t&g this summer and I used narrow crown staples and was thrilled. I have always used my 16 ga straight finisher, but never again.
"I have always used my 16 ga straight finisher, but never again."
you've always used your 16g, why suddenly never again?
I do like my 15g angle finish angle nailer with clipped head nails, for some applictaions.
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I bring out the MAX coil siding nailer, it is a very good gun.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
Thanks. yet you did not say who the manufacturer of the nail gun is. What type of nails does it use and are they a standard easily available brand? Thank you David Marino. Englewood NJ Five miles from the George Washington Bridge.
He has the Max USA coil siding nailgun. I have a hitcahi nv65ah coil siding nail gun. They use siding nails, you probably want stainless steel to prevent black spots, or galvanized if you're painting the siding. Ringshanks are probably best for cedar.
http://www.maxusacorp.com/
http://www.hitachi.us/Apps/hitachicom/content.jsp?page=PneumaticFasteningTools/SpecialtyNailers/details/NV65AH%20Pneumatic%20Fastening%20Tools.html&level=2§ion=PneumaticFasteningTools&parent=SpecialtyNailers&nav=left&path=jsp/hitachi/forhome/PowerTools/&nId=iD
Those of you who advocate a siding nailer for cedar are pre-drilling and hand nailing the ends, right? I've seen guys try to avoid doing this with nothing but split ends. Even out in the field they were getting a lot of cracks and splits, which I suppose was due to too much air pressure. Are you able to find the optimum pressure that doesn't overdrive or require setting with a hammer?
Its not the air pressure , I don't ever touch it. It is the guns depth of drive that sets the nails where ya want.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
I've used a 15ga finish nailer with good results. The countersunk nails match old work around here (1900-1930 time frame) and it looks nice.
At outside corners -- especially if mitered -- I'll hand nail with some 7d hot-dipped siding nails. I keep the nail about 4" back from the end grain to avoid splits.
I have access to a coil siding nailgun, too(Makita http://www.toolbarn.com/product/makita/AN611/?ref=base), but I've only used it on shingles. My concern is that proper setting depth is difficult to achieve 100% of the time, and on bevel siding, the nails are going to be visible.
I guess the grade of siding and the "look" you're going for is important, too. On period homes, I've always used clear cedar which is sanded smooth. If you're going for a more "rustic" look with knotty cedar or the furry stuff they sell at the box stores, a few slightly imperfectly driven nails won't be as noticeable. Thus, the siding gun might be more attractive in that case.
Edited 2/11/2008 2:14 am ET by Ragnar17