Hello –
I had a short ‘fence’ installed several years ago that consisted of three 4X4 posts and two sheets of 4X8 lattice. Over time, the posts have become unstable and the lattice twisted.
I have removed the lattice and framed the two sheets. I have reset the center post in concrete. I am now ready to tackle the remaining 2 posts. I think I got a handle on the distance between the posts as well as the height; I’m just not sure how to align the remaing post. I suppose I could make a jig out of a sheet of plywood…
Thanks in advance,
Richard
Replies
Use a level and make sure all the posts are perfectly plumb. If all the posts are plumb, the panels should attach nicely.
Thank you for your post.
I just to ensure that the three posts line up staight, so there is no 'bend' in the lattice...
I'm just not sure how to align the remaing post
Do you have one remaing post, or two? Didn't you say that only the center post has been reset in concrete?
Anyway, make sure the first two posts are as plumb as you can get them. To make sure that the third post is colinear with the first two, all you need to do is pull one or two string lines (one string at top of post, one at base).
Thank you for your post.
Yes, I have two posts remaining, one on either side of the center post.
So, if I set the second post plumb and the right distance and height and then pull a couple of strings across them to the third post, keeping the strings straight to the naked eye. Or, should the strings extend beyond the third post, similar to how a mason lays bricks?
Or, should the strings extend beyond the third post, similar to how a mason lays bricks?
If I'm understanding your question correctly, I think it would be easiest to run the string long and secure it to a batter board. That way, you could use both hands to set the third post.
You might also be talking about using some sort of standoffs between the posts and the stringline. This would probably give you a more accurate line, especially if you had multiple posts. However, since you only have three posts in total it's probably not that big a deal.
Next time, it'd be easier to start with the two end posts and interpolate rather than extrapolate. ;)
The project has been completed. Everything is plumb and straight. I was well worth the effort.
Thanks to one and all for the comments...
Hmmmm, no one said anything about not setting 4x4's in ceement...
I just got three estimates to rebuild a fence in the San Francisco Bay Area. All three fence builders say they use concrete around the posts. Seems to be standard procedure around here, unlike in the more rural area where I also live, in which setting miles of fence posts in concrete would be a bit much, so no one does it for even short fences.
Edited 7/16/2007 11:41 pm ET by CaseyR
I just re-read my original message here at Breaktime and realized I specified 4x4 posts. The posts are actually 6x6.
Does anyone know where I can get a galvanized cap for them? Home Depot has them for 4x4, but not for 6x6.
Well, since no one else spoke up,
It has been written here a number of times that it is not good practice to encase fence posts within concrete.
It forms a pocket which holds water, then crude, then bugs which ultimately cause premature rot. Even PT.
Recommended practice is to wedge rocks and drainage stone in the bottom of the hole and as it's being refilled. Tamp well. This allows the same holding as cc, as well as allows the mositure to drain and your posts to last longer.
Sorry, unaware of a cap. May need one bent up at a gutter shop.
Have you seen the ads for the adhesive waterproofing membrane that they are selling now for fence posts? It looks like you completely cover the inground portion of the post and this product waterproofs it. Seems like a good idea to me if it does completely waterproof the post.
Daniel Neumansky
Restoring our second Victorian home this time in Alamdea CA. Check out the blog http://www.chezneumansky.blogspot.com/
Oakland CA
Crazy Homeowner-Victorian Restorer
Too late for this project. These 6x6 PT posts were buried 2' (1' in concrete and 1' in soil). I suspect they will last quite some time...
I put a fence in 20 years ago using 4X4 posts buried in concrete. I can't detect any sign of decay... yet. Of course, one example proves little.
I can't help but wonder if the suggestion to avoid burying posts in concrete is actually based upon empirical data or if it's just one of those "seems like a good idea" things.
Thanks for the post. One can not complain for getting at least 20 years of 'service' from fence posts. I got less than 5 years from of the non-concrete set posts in a rather windy location. We'll have to wait and see...
I was thinking today what if you built a fence entirely out of Ipe? It'd be expensive for sure but I bet it would last a loooooong time. You'd have to make sure you used quality stainless screws and bolts to put it toghether.
Daniel Neumansky
Restoring our second Victorian home this time in Alamdea CA. Check out the blog http://www.chezneumansky.blogspot.com/
Oakland CA
Crazy Homeowner-Victorian Restorer
From what I've read (mainly in here) it's one of those things that no one really agrees on.The logic is that concrete traps water, while compacted drainage rock will let the water escape.But that really depends on the soil. If you have clay soil, the rock will just act as a bowl and trap water just well as concrete. In the end, it seems that ACQ wood will last a long time in either situation, so use whatever makes sense in your area.I'm using 4x4x6' ACQ posts sitting in the instant fence-post cement. It's working well enough and if I get 10 years out of it, I'd be fine with that. The one thing I learned was to not put the ACQ posts in the ground until fully dry. My back fence is a bit wavy now. ;o)