I will be installing a weathershield french door into a cinderblock/brick opening. The jamb is alum. clad and I will be connecting PT wood framing in the opening prior to sliding in the door.
My question is what is the best way to hold the door into the opening besides the screws behind the hinges? I don’t want to put any finish nails into the cladding? What is the proper way?
Thanks in advance
Jay Gee
Replies
Are you saying the door is clad inside as well as outside?
Most clad windows and doors I have installed are conly clad on the extrerior side, with either a natural wood or primed wood interior.
Got a link to your products web site?
BTW, welcome to Breaktime.
Dave
Sorry; only clad on the exterior. Like I replied, I have a cinder block rough opening with 1/2 clearance. I have toggled 3/8 PT to the opening and have the door set plumb and square. What I am attempting to do is align 4 other toggles (2 on each side) and cinch in the door.I paid alot of attention to the old door. There was a cut nails on either side and the brick molding and interior trim held it in. I just don't think that is good enough for this heavier door set.Any thoughts will be appreciated.ThanksJay Gee
Yeah you gotta watch those aluminum packing strips on the anderson doors. I trimmed a place out where they had left them on......grrrrrr took me an hour to cut the things off with an old chisel (3 sets of french doors!)
Oh yeah--=-your question. Couldn't you get some 1/4 X 3" tapcons and run them into the block in place of the 3 inch screws. Don't see why it wouldn't workWhen in doubt, get a bigger hammer!
jay.. if it's not too late... i'd boot the weathershield..
even ThermaTru makes a better door..
my first choice would be the Andersen FrenchwoodMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike, have you tried out one of Therma-Tru's patio doors with their own branded triple-point lock hardware?
no.. but i've installed a lot of TT.. i like them
for upscale.. i like the And. Frenchwood
i've been burned too many times with Weathershield... they are one disorganized company with no answersMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I saw a new display at a local yard, a Therma-Tru center-hinged patio door (one panel swings, one fixed), all dolled up with their high end features: branded triple point lock, heavy duty rolling screen panel, factory finish exterior, and aluminum clad exterior frame. Pretty nice.
You are right about the Frenchwood, if we are talking about hinged patio doors. Excellent fit and finish, the lockset is foolproof (the only one you cannot slam shut with the triplehooks out), solid installation (thru the frames with screws, then snap the covers on to conceal), panel adjustment all ways with their hinge feature, and the absolute most weatherproof. Those snap on covers "hood" the weatherstripping from wind pressure, creating a neutral pressure zone. Something similar goes on at the sill.
When I was with ThermaTru, we were all in envy of Andersen, with their patent-protected Frenchwood hinged door. The model I saw at the dealer last week is ThermaTru's answer to it.
"When I was with ThermaTru,"Is this Gene, Mr Micro, etc, etc, etc?I looked at your profile and did not see that many posts so I was not sure, but you might have picked up an alternate registration when you re-registered.
Yeah, I could not figure how to reregister with any of my old names, so I used a new one. There does not seem to be a way to rename yourself once you register, as there was before.
Andersen had a installation strip that comes off. you plumb and level the door and then screw 9 -- 3" screws around the frame, and run one 3" in through each of the hinges. Last step is to put the strip back on and it covers the screws and becomes part of the exterior moulding/doorstop bead
The rough opening is Cinderblock; there is about 1/2 clearance in which I have toggled 3/8s PT to the block. 3 inch screws just will not work.
What I am going to do is align a toggle thru two of the 4 hinges on each side and cinch it in square and plumb. Any other suggestions will help.ThanksJay Gee
Your opening is too small and the door is too big for it. The opening should have 2x PT fastened into it (called 'bucks'), and the door unit should have a nail flange that can be nailed to the outer edges of the bucks.
The 3/8" of wood you have is not adequate to fasten into, and all of your fasteners will need to go into the block/brick. If the block is filled solid with grout then I would look at drilling out some large-ish holes on a regular schedule and epoxying in some wood plugs. They should be PT and probably soaked in cuprinol too. Glue them in flush with the masonry so that they will be in good places for your fasteners (behind hinges is one definite spot).