Where can you buy an anchor-bolt marker? Thanks
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There are a number of ways to achieve a level foundation and mudsill.
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Big Foot Saw Adapters.
I have three of them and you can't beat them. The one thing about framing was drilling all these stinking holes and the fastest way for me to do this is with these bolt hole markers. Money well spent. I've done it every way and they all stink compared to these Once you've used one you will kick yourself in the arse for not getting one sooner.
http://bigfootsaws.com/
Joe Carola
Joe,
I looked at the bigfoot site but I don't understand how the bolt marker works. How does it locate the distance from the edge of the plate to the bolt centre?
Wally
Lignum est bonum.
Snap a line at the inside face of the sill plate. Set the plate on the slab, with the outside edge of the plate on the line ... for a 2x6 plate, it will then be 5-1/2" offset toward the inside of the house. Hold the marker against the bolt and mark the end on the plate.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
The Bolt Marker at the end has settings for half the thickness of different size foundation bolts that you butt right into the foundation bolt and welded back at 3-1/2" and 5-1/2" from the center of the foundation bolt are small little bolts with points on the bottom and a handle that you will see on the website.You come in and snap your line for a 3-1/2" sill or a 5-1/2" sill and lay your 2x on the mark and back towards the inside of the foundation and then just butt your bolt marker into the foundation bolt and eyeball it square to your sill and hit the top of your 3-1/2" or 5-1/2" bolt with your hammer and it marks the exact center of your foundation bolt.Joe Carola
If you look at the second pic closely, you will see that the bolt head closer to the end with the wheel has been hit with a hammer. I believe this causes the other end of the bolt to make an impression on the plate. I guess that the bolt that is farther away is for a 2X6.
The wheel on the end merely makes up for the minor variations in the diameter of different-sized bolts in the foundation.
The one advantage that the old method of measuring and marking the bolts has is that you can adjust for a bow in the plate before installing it. I have often drilled into a bowed plate and then used the bolts to straighten it out. If you are the kind of framer who likes to lay the plate on the bolts and smack it with the hammer, I think your results will be as good as with the new device and faster.
I really like to be precise with the installation of plates and believe there is no substitute for getting good at this. This is the best place to correct a mediocre or poor wall alignment. The rim and the wall and the siding will follow whatever happens at the plate. OTOH, most of the people I have worked with couldn't care less about such a minor detail and actually preferred to drill 3/4" holes for the 1/2" bolts. "Nobody is going to notice" and "I won't be living in it" are some of the comments I have heard.Les Barrett Quality Construction
These things look great when you're working on a slab. But nobody builds on slabs around here. Do they make on that will work on an 8" foundation wall?
My opinions may have changed, but not the fact that I am right. [Ashleigh Brilliant]
Seems to me that those big bolts in the pics are awfully close to the edge of the plate; there won't be much meat left after the holes are drilled.
Thanks Les. Sometimes I work on a slab but as you say mostly it is fdn wall only. I measure each bolt these days because virtually everyone specs PT for bottom plate, and that stuff is very rarely straight. Like you say this is the one chance to straighten things out.
WallyLignum est bonum.
Make one.
12" of 1/2" emt
2"x 1/4" bolt and nut
a drill
a hammer
and a rat-tail file
If you can't figger out how to make one mebbe you shouldn't be using one!!!
:)
Mr T
I can't afford to be affordable anymore