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What would be the best (strongest, etc.) way to frame the floor for a 8’x 12′ garden shed?
12 footers with an 8 on either end or run the 8’s between two 12’s?
Would there be any structural differences? Material cost differences?
I appreciate your tolerance and indulgence.
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Depends. Are you going to support only the four corners? Probably not. So as long as you keep the spans short enough, either way would work. Is cost a factor? Do you want to buy mostly 12' or 8' wood? Use joist hangers, glue & screw the plywood floor in place, and a shed of that size would work well either way.
*The stongest way(assuming 2x6 floor w 3/4 t+g ply) would be 8' between the two 12'...but you can run them the other way if you provide midspan support...especially if you plan on storing a riding lawnmower and all of your tools inside Jason
*There is no best way to do this. You have 96 sq ft of floor, a reasonable design load might be 30#/sq ft.If you support only the corners:If you use 8' joists between 12' headers, the headers each carry 1500 pounds (120#/ft). If you use 12' joists between 8' headers, the headers each carry 1500 pounds (200#/ft). Buy a book of plans and more or less follow one of the plans in the book.
*George, why should he (or anyone) buy a book for a simple const question? We have enough talent here to make even the simplest Q complex.
*8's between two 12's, and use 6 support points. 4 corners, and at mid-span on the two 12's.
*I just got back from cruising some of the lumber yards who build their own.The common practice seems to favor Luka's description but everyone has them sitting on PT 4X4's for ground contact. For a 12' span they varied between 3 and 4 4x's and then they level using blocks under the 4x ends. (Easier to skid them around too)All floors were 2x4, most were 12" on center but the walls were mostly 24" centers.Get what ya pay for I 'spose.I really would like to store my old Cub Cadet in there too, so the strongest way gets the nod.Thank you all very much for your input!
*Len, one thing to keep in mind when you frame that floor is to trim a bit off one way or the other so you don't end up having to side a shed that is an oddball size like 12'3" x 8'1".........Joe H
*8's between two 12's (each side), and use support points at the corners only, for light duty. For a little extra stiffness, you could indent the support points 12" or so on each corner so that the span on the 12's is in effect only 10'. Assuming you sheeth these walls with OSB or ply and nail appropriately, the entire wall becomes a "beam". There is a lot of strength there. Lay a couple of 2x12's flat on the floor under the tires and you could park a Mazda Miata in there.-Randy
*Len, you have a Cadet? That is so cool! Does she get out much?
*Len, don't forget that the lumber yard is building those sheds in one place and shipping them to another. If you were to build on-site and don't plan on moving it, you would probably build it a little different.
*Please don't throw things at me, but for this application how about a slab on grade instead? It's inexpensive, good for heavy stuff, and the rolling stock goes in and out over a level path rather than a ramp.-- J.S.
*Sitting outside as we speak with a (VERY unused this year) QA42 snow blower. A 122.
*If the location for the shed was a bit farther "inland" from my property line I'd be out setting up forms right now however...ahem...following common practice in my neighborhood I'm into the set-back just a smidge.Sort of, "well, we reaally don't want to identify with that out-building but, if we must..." neighborhood.If they really want to push the matter then I'll have to skid it in about 15'.Believe me, I actually thought of just getting an enclosed trailer.I can have one unregistered and park it where ever, imagine?
*I guess those last 2 responses didn't register with the comments I was trying to respond to.Sorry!
*When I built our playhouse in the back yard, I did a perimeter of treated 4X4s. Then rim board all around, and joists between. That way the joists sat at least partly on the 4X4s, and were off the ground a bit. With a full perimiter of 4X4s, it was also "sealed" to the ground so I was less likely to get critters under it.
*My 8x12 shed sits on 3-8' 4x4s w/ 12' 2x4s for joiststhis gives me a 6' span for more strength you could use 4-4x4s and 12" spacing.Thist orientation makes for no cutting of the deck ply.Also you should check to see if a slab is allowed for a shed because it would make the building "permanent"as far as the code might see it.T
*Several years ago,my brother in law and I built a shed for my dad at his place by the lake. It ended up being 12X16 with 8' walls and a 5/12 roof.We set the shed on 6x6 runners and 4x4 4'oc with 2x8 joists 16"oc notched over the runners that were 8'apart. We then ran a 2x10 rim joist so that it looked like it sat on the ground.This was stout to say the least, the rule was a long as it was portable the assersor could not tax it as a permanent structure and thier were no building permits needed. The really funny thing about all of this was that the neighbor who was bitching got caught for illegally adding another bathroom with out getting the septic permit. Come to find out that the house never did have a permit. Finally they had to buy the lot next door and use that one, because orginal lot would not pass perk test. Something about no laterals ever installed so the wastewater just ran out of the tank and the soil was to bad to use. For the record after Dad passed in 93' we lifted it with bloomfield jacks slipped 3/4 plywood under the runners, looped a chain to hooks we bolted to the runners and drug the shed over to the family next door. We gave it to them for watching out for Dad, and now it is the playhouse for the kids. [email protected]
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What would be the best (strongest, etc.) way to frame the floor for a 8'x 12' garden shed?
12 footers with an 8 on either end or run the 8's between two 12's?
Would there be any structural differences? Material cost differences?
I appreciate your tolerance and indulgence.