I’m building a fence and garden structures for a client, and he drew up the following for a little, hell, I don’t even know what you’d call it. At any rate I need to figure out a way to build the curved rafters(?).
I believe that the roof will eventually be shingled, and that I will wind up putting some T&G or similar on the underside, so they don’t necessarily have to be pretty.
Any advice for a timely and cost/time efficient way to do this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
KH
Replies
I've done a few projects like this. On exposed rafters I made them out of several pieces doweled together. Another roof I built, I just used 3 pieces of 3/4" plywood and laminated them together.
EZ Take a 2x12 and whack away with a jigsaw.
If the radius desired is deeper than the lumber allows. take to off-cut from top inside radius and glue it to the outside bottom curve
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<If the radius desired is deeper than the lumber allows. take to off-cut from top inside radius and glue it to the outside bottom curve>
i like that.
Reduced size:
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Looks like your client has a good sense of what he wants. I'd begin by discussing the radius he'd like to use for those rafters. Choosing the best radius may be a little tricky because it has to work well with the rafter's length also.
You can use a measured length of mason's line and a pencil, the same as a compass, to draw the curve on both edges of a doug fir 2X12, or whatever dimensional lumber suits the scale.
It looks like a nice project. How about some photos after it's completed?
I made a few trim projects with a large radius that needed to be 2x.
I used sheets of 3/4" MDO and glued them together and then took to the jig saw.
Actually, I think one project I did that on is in mt website below on the front of my Fox Hunt Lane house project. The curved trim on the front of the entry.
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Wow, your client sketches pretty darn good!
Since it gets covered I'd probably use ply. The quality of 2x12s around here is total crap so that option would be hit or mis.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
How about using an LVL? It would save the glue up and he could get one at whatever depth he needs for the radius.
Just a thought. I never used one for anything like that.
Dave
How about using an LVL?
I don't know why that wouldn't work as long as the framing isn't exposed to the weather and the curve isn't too much. With all the wood fibers going the same direction it's not uncommon for corners on curved ends to be quite fragile and crack off if dropped or pressured at all. It's safe to say LVL's are at least as prone to splitting as is solid lumber.
Plywood is such a common, easily cut and reliable go-to material for curves that it's probably still where I'd start.
However, I would encourage the guy working next to me to use the LVL or solid 2x to see how it turns out.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
At first I was thinking "laminate" or "plywood", but looking again, that looks like a pergola where your "rafters" will be exposed to the elements. If it was me (and it ain't), I'd probably joint up a couple of 2 X whatever to get the required depth, rough out with a jigsaw and trim with a router & template. Use exterior glue and, if you're worried about it, T&G or a slip tennon to reinforce the joint.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
I see from your profile (thanks for filling it out) that you are in Oregon. That makes this a "no problemo" project, as you can readily find large timber.
If the roof is open-frame, with no deck or roofing atop, I would do it in redwood. If the top gets planked and roofed, then I would do it in doug fir. You should be readily able to get a small sawmill to get you the stock.
Since I have CAD, I would make an accurate 3D model of the structure, so that dimensioned sketches of all the parts could be pulled from the model. I've access to a large format inkjet plotter, too, so I would have full-sized patterns made on stock paper for the curved parts.
I use 3M spray adhesive, and glue the patterns to the stock, then fire up the bandsaw and saw the stock right to the lines. Done.
What you have is a nice little timberframe project, and done in redwood, it will be gorgeous. Send us some pics when done.
Here is a look at what I will be whacking up out of some nice white pine in a week or so.
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I use a lot of luan or tempered hardboard for pattern boards to play with radii and fittings and to make templates for router the edge to finish level.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
For laying out circular work, I've found a beam compass to be much easier to use than a string or tape measure. You can make a beam compass with a strip of wood, a nail and a pencil. It's easier and faster to use trammels points, such as these:
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-523-Adjustable-Trammels/dp/B00004T7R5/sr=1-2/qid=1168035660/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2/103-7391098-2468646?ie=UTF8&s=hi
Okay I know I'm only a HO but here's an odd idea I had on this.
What about using an inexpensive IKEA butcher block counter top to cut the rafters out of? Its $196 for a 96 7/8" by 25 5/8" by 1 1/2" oak unfinished counter top. And thats the most expensive-they have beech and birch. Could give you an interesting laminated look for cheap and easy (compared to an lvl).
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40091673
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You could cut a pretty serious curve out of that. They come unfinished so you can stain-seal them to match. If you have an ikea store nearby that is.
Daniel Neumansky
Restoring our second Victorian home this time in Alamdea CA. Check out the blog http://www.chezneumansky.blogspot.com/
Oakland CA
Crazy Homeowner-Victorian Restorer
Edited 6/14/2007 1:43 pm by madmadscientist