Any needed/specific order of proposed repairs
Our house is about 45 years old. It is just under 1,000 Sq. ft. and a bungalow. We are located in the Northern area of the Great Plains (Southern Canada – Saskatchewan specifically). The attic insulation was upgraded to an R45 via fiberglass batts when we moved in 20 years ago.
The following are the proposed repairs (for this summer if possible).
1. Replace the shingles (they need it. The last few feet of sheathing may need replacement – the joists should be good). I am thinking of architectural shingles that will have 40 year life so that we don’t need to do this again while we live here.
2. Replace the aluminum siding and install about two inches of foam insulation under it.
3. Replace the doors and windows. Will need to get the deeper jamb style used for 6 inch studs due to the increased foam insulation.
4. Replace the eaves troughing.
I suspect that the shingles can be done at any time (as long as rain is not expected).
I think the windows should be done before the siding (or would the insulation increase be considered a different operation – IE remove the old siding, instll the foam replace the windows then the new siding).
While I think the eavestroughing could be done at any time I think it might be best after all use of ladders and scaffolding etc. will not risk any impacts.
This next could (will probably) generate some opinions. Is then any specific manufacturer of shingles, windows, doors that should hold up well in our climate?
All comments appreciated.
Replies
If the roof is leaking, that's first priority, since a leaky roof endangers the integrity of the rest of the structure. But if it's only a few localized leaks then you can usually patch them or use one of the many "roof coatings" to buy another year or two. If the roof is just worn, though, then it can wait -- no real conflict with residing, one way or the other.
If you're going to replace doors or windows, you should do that before you do the siding, though if you're installing thicker units it gets complicated -- probably don't want to go many months before the siding is done.
Gutters can be damaged in reroofing, so they're probably best left for last. But you may want to consider tearing off the old ones and redoing the fascia before reroofing.
There is no leaking (even with this winters snow and melting) but the shingles are starting to lift/roll up on the tabs (more than just one or two and not just localized to a specific area).
So remove old siding, replace windows and doors, add insulation, install new siding.
Roof at any time but remove eaves and fascia during the roofing and put them up afterwards.
Maybe do the roof before the siding so that there isn't any chance of the new siding being accidentally damaged.
Remolve eaves and fascia.
Remove shingles and replace any sheathing needed
Shingle
Remove old siding
Install windows and doors
install insulation
Insall new siding
a Install new fascia and eaves
Generally you want the new fascia in place before you reroof, so that the roofers can install the drip edge tight to the fascia.
Thank You.
Basically then
Remolve eaves, fascia.and shingles
Replace any sheathing needed and install new fascia
Shingle
Remove old siding
Install windows and doors
install insulation
Insall new siding
Install new eaves
I am looking at Double pane low e windows. I am also leaning towards awning rather than casement. I think that they will allow air flow and be less likely to catch gusting directional winds and be damaged while allowing less chance of rain entering if they are left slightly open. I am thinking of combo units for the living room (faces S) with the major portion being closed/sealed units with an opening transom like upper set.
Will there be any special problems/concerns with installing the 6 inch jamb windows and doors with the actual framing being 2x4?
I'm no expert on the nitty details of window install and things like 6" windows in 4" framing (and I'm surprised that the REAL experts haven't jumped in and told me I'm all wet about everything else). Hopefully someone else will check in with something constructive on that topic.
The sequence you describe is probably about optimal **IF** (that's a big if) you can get the work accomplished in a timely manner -- over a period of 3-4 months, say. If it's going to drag on for two years, however, you may need to alter plans to assure that exposed areas are temporarily protected.
Also, with the foam-on-the-outside scheme the devil is in the details. How to do this has been worked out by experts and you need to seek out and follow their prescriptions. Flashing and other detailing around the windows is critical, for example.
While there might not be a problem with the install of..........
Replacement Type windows.....................There likely will be if these are new construction with a flange mounting system. Additionally with trimming the exterior because of the thick foam....................almost the same problem in your siding install-lack of a "real" nailing surface.
It's common to wrap the window rough opening with wood on the exterior for mounting the flange directly to a sound nailing surface. Bring the foam up to it.
or
use thinner foam, add a nailer over that to the proper thickness of the rest of the surface.
or
mount the window to the framing through the jamb (if possible) and let the flange lay against the foam-do the proper weather/water detailing with a peel and stick flashing along with your house wrap.