I’m currently keeping my subfloor and old floor as underlayment. It’s a old house and bowed in the center – 3/8 at max. I’ll be using #30 felt when installing my 3/4″ Santos Mahogony Wood.
Couple of questions –
What do you guys use to correct the dips. I am thinking/considering the self leveling componds just to get this level . My concern is won’t it just crack the minute nails from the wood flooring just get into it.
Any issues with #30 felt when it get’s hot ? Does it start to *stink* like tar.
Any tips or advice when coming up againt the starting step of the Stairs ? Since there is no base trim on this area , is it just a matter of getting everyting nice & TIGHT ? My only problem area I see is installing the planks that is right next to the stairs – starting steps – newel and making sure the planks get a real good fit since there is no base molding to cover any gaps.
Replies
For small sqaurish rooms, 16' , does Diagnol layout really make the room look larger.
How much more % over the usual 15% should I consider if going with a diagnol layout.
You said you're keeping your pld floor & sub floor as underlayment----- what is your old flooring material?
If there is a layer of particle board under there it needs to go the nails won't hold in it worth a cra-p.
Depending on how deep the bow is I have seen self leveling compounds & fixall used then a new plywood underlayment installed over that then the hardwood.
15% would easily cover the diagnol overage---- most HW flooring is 2.75" to 4.5" wide & your miter cuts are at the end so your waste is less than other materials.
The flooring I'm looking at is 5.5" wide.It's pine planks as the subfloor and the existing old flooring appears to be dark oak.
On the SLC, won't it crack once the nails drive through it ? I'm thinking about using a mix of thin ply or hardboard, and then some SLC just to get things level....My only concern is the SLC once nails go through it. Won't it break off, cause more cracking in the SLC, etc.
I've nailed wood sleepers to a concrete slab with a powder-actuated nailer through patches of leveling compound and didn't see any spalling or fractures.
I wouldn't think floor nails would be much different. And if you get some fractures, so what? The leveling compound is really just a shim. If you overlay the leveled floor with plywood underlayment, so much the better, as long as it's glued and nailed or screwed down well.
Your greatest thickness will be 3/8" so if you use 2" flooring nails you should be fine. But I wouldn't use "hardboard."
You shouldn't cram your new flooring against anything that won't move. Can you undercut any of the area around the stairs? If not, why isn't a trim at the base possible?
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I wasn't quite sure how to attack this area - the starting step curves.I was planning to undercut the riser side which is flat but it does a curve on one edge.
does anyone still "cork" their floors???Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
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Underlayment or finish?
22 of the 42 storys I'm just wrapping up has cork under all tile floors.
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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Chef, I've never used SLC under wood floors, so maybe it works, but I'd worry about any that did spall ending up "chruching" when you walk on the flooring.I've used layers of felt with no problems.Have you considered what the new flooring is going to the first rise at the stairs? Could be a problem.Also sounds like you may need some chew moulding to go along with the new flooring.Good Luck I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
If you are saying that you plan to lay wood plank floor over wood strip floor, there is no sense in using tarpaper.
The purpose of the paper whether tar or resin, is to prevent squeeks and yuou are gauranteeing yourself plenty of squeeks by laying flooring over flooring.
As for your worry about leveling compound sticking - that depends on what sort of surfacce the old oak has. If high gloss and or waxed, it might not stick.
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What do you guys use to correct the dips.
Proper framing.
I did a search for chew moulding. Didn't pull anything up. Care to go into details .GOod point on how the new flooring affects the rise on the 1st step. Didn't think of this.....- Why is is not okay to install new flooring ontop of exisiting flooring ?- After all the work involved, I am thinking about gutting the floor and leveling up.
Sorry chef, I used to work with a tile guy who had a lab with an appetite for anything wooden. We were locking out a house, and found a whole bundle of shoe moulding, all gnawed up on one end...ever since then, we've called it "chew moulding"<G> I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
Use different thickness layers of plywood or Luan to fill the greater part of the dip and then feather out any differences with latex patch. Use 15 lb. felt. Nail the Santos 6" on center. That will add to a quieter floor. Watch your compressor pressure. You just want the staple or nail head to sit flush with the tongue joint. If they start to counter set, the tongues will start to break and that will add to a noisy floor. GW