tell me how to bend this.
1×6 facia board. I want to cover with sheet metal. so that would be 6 inch then 90 degree bend, a inch wide and the another 90 degree tab to hook the back of the 1×6
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my spelling is not bad, my keyboard is covered with dirt and I cant see the keys.
Replies
Put the metal in the brake, leave 1/2" or so exposed and bend up 90, then pull the metal out about 3/4" (thickness of your wood) and bend up 90 again. You should now have a nice u shape at the bottom edge of the material.
Starting material should be about 6 3/4 inches wide. Adjust your bend locations to get the widths you want.
(Unless I understood your question wrong)
Edited 2/23/2008 7:21 pm ET by TomW
not sure how your using this but wouldn't you want the last bend to go up, not hook 1x6, so water would not get behind it?
I don't do much if any of this type of work. But I know that you can purchase these premade from a roofing/siding jobber.
[email protected]
ok, just looked it up in the Alcoa book.
Looks like it doesn't go up the back of the board much if at all.
Me thinks there is a reason why..........
F1C6 Envoy Smooth 6" fascia Trim
F1C60 Wood grain Embossed
FC16SR024 Envoy Ribbed
F1C6SR Endurance Ribbed
http://www.alcoahomes.com
[email protected]
Man, yer a day or two early. I've always wanted one, and darned if I didn't go ahead and build it this week (cut up the bridge cart). The primer is drying as we speak. Next day I could post you a clear pic of a great little green homemade 30" job from scrap.
Forrest - what was the question?
I,m building a ten foot model. I got a piece of twenty foot 3 inch channel yesterday. I got the bending part solve but the clamping part I'm still thinking. I needed to know how to bend the 3/4 inch lip so I can figure how it wraps around the clamp..my spelling is not bad, my keyboard is covered with dirt and I cant see the keys.
Whoa! 10' is going to need a heck of a beam to keep from sagging - both on the overhead piece and the folder. I used 3" C-channel as well, and could easily measure deflection in the top beam at first. Below you can see my solution. I added a piece of angle across the front, to extend my bend capacity to to 135º.
The vertical bolts clamp the top piece down, against shims of the desired metal thickness + .005 - .01". My big Eureka was having the horizontal bolts as adjustable "kickers" (figures you'd know that!) - they flex the front lip down and even pre-bow it against the pressure of the bend. The top piece slides back and forth about .150", for different metal thickness and bend "tightnesses".
And yes, those are antique doorknobs on the handles!
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Folded to 135º -
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Top piece lifted off -
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I think the trick is getting the pivot point correct, relative to the various intersecting planes. After my drawing, I clamped it all together with washers as shims and tacked it. The pivots are just 4" door hinges; I ground in pockets to sink them and for barrel clearance.
I've got some GREAT Soss 4-1/2" ball-bearing hinges I cleaned up, but too nice to use here - could see letting them go for a bigger brake . . .
Forrest
Edited 2/24/2008 9:15 am ET by McDesign
I've built a few brakes... mostly for alum when i was building alot of dirt track bodies... and bend'n alum is alot easier than steel steel...
but most all home made brakes i've ever seen used angle iron as the top clamp... with both legs face'n down and the "point" face'n up... i've done 2 things here... depending on materials at hand...
1. i've filled the down facing void of the angle with wood and sanded it flush across... for much better clamping pressure on small lip bends...
2. or i've welded flat 1/4" stock across the legs make'n it a closed triangle and ground & filed the leading edge for crisp bends...
both these options benifit from you welding up a truss over the top out of 1/2" round bar... with a threaded bolt in the center so that you can adjust the pressure and keep it somewhat true...
for clamping... holes thru the angle "point" capture a valve spring under the angle,,, bolt thru the valve spring and thru the hole .. a home made wing nut and you are done... i'd try to get about 3/8 spring up/clamp bar up when at rest... you can keep pressure on it so it's only an 1/8" makes pretty quick clamping with the wing nuts
this eats up about 1.5" on each end... so if you deal with 48" material... you need to plan on make'n the bed & bar 52-54" min...
think i still have one i built out of pallet rack cross bars... use what ya have
p
Good tips - I'm already thinking of the next one. I do plan to back-bevel the edge of the angle iron lip for sharp bends.
Forrest
with the angle face'n down you automaticly can have a 45 degree fo an over bend... from that point to get a crisp or sharp bend you need a ground edge... you'd only need to grind the front leg of the angle (3" angle trussed if you are at 4ft) by filling the underside void you get full contact clamping when you are bending 1" or so lips.. but if you want to make J track if you keep the void empty you can let the bend go up into the angel... the void under the angel gives you a place for the springs at each end to lift the clamp bar... i always found that i could lossen one end a little and the other end alot to move the work around under it... the tight end i could push the work to it... and in effect hold it while i lined up the other end... and clamped it down...
1/2" holes with 1/2" hold down bolts allow you enough "slop" to move the clamp bar back & forth to allow for different thickness material... would be easy enough to make a stop nut adjustment like you did to keep it the same every time...
think one of my first welding projects when i got my first craftsman 225amp stick welder when i was 14-15 was building a brake... before that i used a wood door and jamb...
p
I know you and ponytl are the el supremo "make something out of nothing" Kings and I've been bending sheet metal for 25-30 years so I'm jaded. But I could run to Harbor Freight and buy a 48" brake for about $150 which is a piece of crapp, but still more sophisticated than anything you could build, get the job done and move on to the next project and be done with it before you get done building your brake.
I need to cut a 2x4. I think I'll build a saw.
Grant - busting your ballshttp://grantlogan.net/
Today we's learnin' about rawks. They's all kinds of rawks. These [picks up rock] is rawks which you throw. These here [throws rock at Rusty] is rawks that you get hit with. E.Cuyler
Yeah, but then you have to live with the disgrace of having -=bought=- all your tools.Watta you gonna do ? Post a picture and say, "Lookit this neato sheet metal brake that Harbor Freight built for me"... ?;o)Forrest isn't going to bend as much sheet metal as you do. And he gets his creative jollies from building the brake, whereas you get yours from bending the metal.His brake will also probably outlast that cheapo HF one. And if it doesn't, he gets even more creative jollies from improving on it.Your approach here, is to just want to get there. He wants to make his own shoes and enjoy the journey.=0)
When it rains, it snows.
Watta you gonna do ? Post a picture and say, "Lookit this neato sheet metal brake that Harbor Freight built for me"...
No. But I might post some pictures of the stuff I made with it. In fact I have.
His brake will also probably outlast that cheapo HF one.
Not likely if they're both used the same amount. I bought one about 15-16 years ago. Gets semi-daily use. Still bending.
Your approach here, is to just want to get there. He wants to make his own shoes and enjoy the journey.
Not necessarily so. He wants to build some skates. I want to roll.
Forrest gets what I'm talking about. What are you getting worked up about? I'm just offering a little advise. It's free and worth it. I've built lots of tools when what I need is not commercially available. My pre-tinner is homemade as well as my radius bender attachments for my brake and my extension forks for my forklift so I can pick a 10' pallet up from the end. http://grantlogan.net/
Today we's learnin' about rawks. They's all kinds of rawks. These [picks up rock] is rawks which you throw. These here [throws rock at Rusty] is rawks that you get hit with. E.Cuyler
ROFLMAOWho said I was getting worked up ?Didn't you see the smilies ?If yer gonna have a dry sense of humor on the give, then ya gotta figure out when it's dry on the take.;o)
When it rains, it snows.
Oady doady.http://grantlogan.net/
Today we's learnin' about rawks. They's all kinds of rawks. These [picks up rock] is rawks which you throw. These here [throws rock at Rusty] is rawks that you get hit with. E.Cuyler
P.S.That's ok, though.I never do seem to figure it out either. And end up taking people too seriously.;o)
When it rains, it snows.
<I need to cut a 2x4. I think I'll build a saw.>
LOL! Yer not the first to say that. Friend said to us once, "If everyone was like you and DW, America's economy would collapse."
Also, I needed welding practice - nothing better than puttering in the shop late at night - it's not like I have a TV to waste time with.
Forrest - braking away from the everyday
it's not like I have a TV to waste time with.
I have a TV in the shop. I've got a bunch of bookshelves full of books in my office as well, but I can't read a book while I'm working.http://grantlogan.net/
Today we's learnin' about rawks. They's all kinds of rawks. These [picks up rock] is rawks which you throw. These here [throws rock at Rusty] is rawks that you get hit with. E.Cuyler
Uh - anybody call you "Lefty?"
Forrest - focusing on my work
Uh - anybody call you "Lefty?"
Nah. Still got 'em all. My biggest distraction is the telephone. I easily filter the radio or TV out when I need to concentrate, but if I stop for one phone call (and I probably get 30 or so a day), it takes me a long time to reorganize and resume. That's why I usually do most of my shop work before 8 or after 5.http://grantlogan.net/
Today we's learnin' about rawks. They's all kinds of rawks. These [picks up rock] is rawks which you throw. These here [throws rock at Rusty] is rawks that you get hit with. E.Cuyler
i built all mine BEFORE harbor freight... Vic Irwin was selling a cheap brake at the time for like $500.00...
had a really nice 4ft tennco? that a friend took to the dump (so he said) when i asked him to clean out a warehouse space i had.... only nice one i ever had... (besides my siding brake)
but i do have full access to a friend full metal shop when i have some serious stuff to make up..
many times i didn't have the $150 but i did have steel and a welder and didn't need to sleep that night anyway
p
that 4 footer at harbor freight is a pretty nice one. Its china built but it pretty good. I just need a 10 footer and used tapco are $1500 around here.my spelling is not bad, my keyboard is covered with dirt and I cant see the keys.
got my 10'6 Van Mark about '84 for $800.... bought an upgrade kit two years ago for $300
it was all money well spent
if there is anything i can't bend on that i can always go over to the local sheet metal shop Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Here's the little 'ol thang I built my "unsophisticated" brake for, and the completed brake. The fan shrouding rings were made from 4 pieces of 20" folded angle, which were then stretched with hammer-and-dolly on the shorter leg, to make them curve to match the ~6" radius
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;-)
Hope your daughter's doing well -
Forrest
Edited 2/28/2008 6:06 pm ET by McDesign
Very nice. Nice paint job on the brake, too. I had faith in you.
There's a story Jerry Jeff Walker tells about a guitar maker friend of his. He wrote a song and played it for Jerry Jeff and then told him he'd been playing and building guitars all these years and it just occured to him to write a song. Jerry Jeff replied that he'd been writing songs and playing guitars for many years, but it had never occured to him to build his own guitar.
DD is doing well, thanks.
Grant-humming LA Freewayhttp://grantlogan.net/
Today we's learnin' about rawks. They's all kinds of rawks. These [picks up rock] is rawks which you throw. These here [throws rock at Rusty] is rawks that you get hit with. E.Cuyler
I couldn't carry a tune in a bucket, but I shore wood like to build a geetar someday.;o)I have built some smaller instruments before. I like to make halfway purty noise with them afterward, but I have never been able to learn to actually play anything.Just don't have the aptitude for the playin, I guess.To be serious about the brake... I would be equally happy building one, or using one.=0)
We have been talking to ourself and have decided that you are all a pigment of our imagination.
Very nice!
That beats hel outta my step flashing brake... except for cost, simplicity and portability. ;)
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View ImageLiberty = Freedom from unjust or undue governmental control.
American Heritage Dictionary
HEEEY!
You'll be hearing from my lawyer.
I invented that "brake" some 15 years ago. LOL!
Needed two 5' runs of counter flashing, and the brake was an hour away.
Had my version of that brake "built".....the flashing bent and installed......and 90% of the siding above the portico installed, by the time my boss got back with his (never where it was needed) brake.
Beware the bikini clad female.
She may be interpreted as offensive.
Great minds think alike.
Forrest
you're kidding ....right?
seriously.
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
buy the pre-bent from a siding supply house
http://www.tapcotools.com/pages/video_3A_jchannel.php
There are more videos for other common profiles also.
What you're lookin' for?
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
Go to an aluminum supply house and ask them to use their brake.
Heres how I typically bend the stuff to cover a typical soffit system
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07