The local community college has a welding program (although if the budget problems continue, it may be HAD a welding program) that has about 40 student welding cubicles. I was surprised to see that the cubicles (which are about 6’x7′ or so) have walls with labels on them saying that they contain asbestos. The material, which looks something like a lighter colored cement backer board, is in good condition and the supervisor of the welding area said that since the asbestos board is in good condition, they have not been required to remove it.
He would, however, like to better encapsulate the asbestos. Being as there is no budget, I thought perhaps I could help them out by doing a little volunteer labor and see if I could at least paint the walls with something recommended for encapsulating asbestos in an area where here will hot sparks flying and students weilding grinders.
Anyone have any suggestions for a material? I did a search on-line (Google was out with a case of denial-of-service or something as I couldn’t get it to come up so used Yahoo instead) and after about 100 entries I only found one relevant product mentioned which was an advertisement for Lag-Kote II by Fiberlock, and a couple of general references to using water based latex. A previous Breaktime post mentioned possibly using epoxy paint; however, epoxy is not noted for its heat resistance.
Doing much surface preparation would probably not be a good idea, however I would probably vacuum the area with my Fein vacuum using a HEPA filter. I have a high pressure airless sprayer, although in the close confines of the cubicles, I would guess that a roller might work just as well.
Any advice and suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Casey
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My only suggestion: don't use your Fein vac with HEPA filter to vacuum up asbestos. Shopvac+HEPA filter is not a HEPA vac, and you'll probably just end up with asbestos particles in your vac. You might see if you could rent a HEPA vac from a remediation service. You can get small hand-held models for about $400 e.g. http://www.lss.com.
paint with latex paint
I could see a student with a running grinder touching one of the walls and making about 20 feet of a hazmat zone
That's the way it is now. As I mentioned, I am really surprised the powers that be seem to think the situation is fine with only a small warning sticker...
FWIW... I would rethink any activity in this arena unless you are an expert in asbestos.
The risk is too high... and do you really want some student 5 yrs from now including you in a lawsuit for asbestos related illness?
I appreciate your want to help. In fact... I admire it. But in this case... I would be more inclined to help raise funds to hire a firm that specializes in this work... than to do it myself.
I seriously doubt that my painting it would make things any worse. Trying to raise money for a professional outfit to do their thing would only take, maybe, ten or fifteen years or so by my guess...
Although many Americans see a liability boogieman hiding behind every paying job and every charitible act, I don't find that it is true in practice.
I've done pro bono engineering as well as 18 years of hazardous / toxic remediation. Who gets sued? Who has the big money? The manufacturer of the stuff first and foremost. And, from a worker exposure perspective, their employer and/or state disability programs. Even big consulting and engineering firms that screw up only settle on commercial terms (the job was 60% unfinished. . . ). I've never seen a family or relatives come after them. While anyone can file suit against anyone, they do need a legal basis for the claim or it gets thrown out. And enough evidence and money to prove their case with a "preponderance of evidence".
So, Casey, I applaud you wanting to help and I think you are on the right track. I've only done 50 or so asbestos buildings so isn't really my expertise, but, yes, painting it will help. You are looking for what makes for durable, resistant paint in that setting (substrate, temperature, etc). And good latex paint is quite good (DON'T use old lead-based paint! <G>). Any intact paint will make the fibers non-friable and that is the goal.David Thomas Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska
David -
Thanks for the encouraging words. However, are you aware of any paints that might hold up to the heat and possible abrasion better than some others? Would the types of paints used for painting engine blocks perhaps be a better top coat then standard interior wall paint?
Things have been amazingly spring like here in Oregon for the last couple of months. The blossoms have already fallen off the cherry trees and the daffodils have been out for several weeks. Unfortunately, with the rainfall one third of normal so far this year, there might not be much water coming out of our taps by late summer. How are things up there this year? I guess with the general warming in Alaska, you guys will be putting in citrus and palm trees in the next few years...
To paraphrase Doctor McCoy (Star Trek), "I'm a plumber, not a painter!". But I'd look in the direction you are - engine block paint. Paint for appliances like ovens, etc. Yes, a really mild winter up and break-up is happening now, 3 weeks early. We got snow but almost every time it was 36F a few days later and ruined it. Only a few days of -10F, -15F.Something I hadn't known until recently - global warming doesn't raise sea levels by melting icecaps (at least not in the short term). But rather, by thermal expansion of the oceans. A topic of concern to me since we lose about 1000 sq ft of land a year to coastal erosion (one linear foot / year). At least we have 180 feet (180 years at this rate) to go.David Thomas Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska
David-
Global warming does raise the sea level by both the melting of glaciers and through thermal expansion. Some estimates are that the current rise in sea level has been fairly close to evenly divided between thermal expansion and the melting of glaciers. http://www.grida.no/climate/vital/19.htm
If the melting of the major ice caches in Antarctica and Greenland take off big time, however, it would be another matter. One estimate is that when the Antarctic ice caps melted at the end of the last ice age, the oceans rose by abut 70 feet in 500 years. (I might be misremembering my units here, perhaps it is 70 meters in 500 years as another estimate is that if the Antarctic and Greenlands ice cap were to melt now, the ocean level would rise by 65 meters. http://www.usatoday.com/weather/resources/askjack/2004-11-21-melting-polar-ice_x.htm ). Of course, the melting of the ice at the North Pole would have no effect on the ocean leve, but reportedly, it would play havoc with weather here in the rainy NW by causing a major drop in precip.
Sheesh, does anybody stay on topic here!?!
The engine paint you are thinking of would not be good - you would need to cure it with heat before it hardened properly (or run the engine, of course). No paint will stand up to a grinder, if you are really worried about it then put a piece of galvanized sheetmetal over any threatened areas.
Really, the encapsulant is all you truely need. Paint is just icing on that fireproof cake.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Be very very careful, I lost a good friend and great carpenter to asbestosis
I have already had a bit of exposure. One of my first jobs out of college was as a fire protection engineer. One of our clients was Johns Mansville in Pittsburg, CA I still vividly remember walking through the plant with asbestoes dust swirling around me like I was in a blizzard. Of course, no one wore any protective gear and certainly no one offered me any. This was in 1965, long after the word was supposedly out that asbestos was exactly good stuff. Can't say that I have a great regard for Johns Mansville...
"32-22/ PROTEKTOR SEALANT" is something you should look for. If you cannot find a local supplier, you could order it via the web. It looks like watered down white glue. I had some abatement work done, and the workers were kind enough to leave a bucket of this behind, for when I came across more asbestos covered things, like ducts, wires, tile, ceiling coatings, etc. Their 32-21 is blue, which may be better so you know what areas were treated and what were not. Put it into a spray pump bottle and go to town, wetting down all exposed materials. You may even want to call Foster http://www.fosterproducts.com/ Toll Free: 800-543-4592 | West Coast Toll Free: 800-344-8910 to see if they have a better product for your purposes
I would not surface treat this, other than mabey a damp wash cloth and a gentle touch on any DEEP dirt. You do not want to make these fibers into a powdered form - that's when they are dangerous!
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!