I am heading a committee for my Homeowner’s Assn. (yes, silly me) responsible for dealing with our 30 year old tennis/basketball courts (120 x 180 feet).
The courts are generally in good shape, with a few significant cracks (some 2-3 inches wide, many feet long)and lots of other finer cracks (non-structural). As I said, the surface is 30 years old, which I’m told is beyond the normal life of blacktop.
There is general concern about liability due to the wider cracks, and the fence (also 30 years old) looks a bit dingy and is leaning in spots. The Board has decided to deal with this in the next year or 2.
Plan A was to pulverize the surface and install new asphalt for brand new courts. We have now determined that, given the price tag, we will be unable to raise enough money (bylaws limit amount of special assessments) to go this route. Total tab was to be around $70,000-$80,000 including new fencing. This is NOT an option.
Now, we’ve had two contractors tell us that the cracks can be cut out and repaired, and then new asphalt can be laid over the top (of the entire court surface). They tell us the main surface is still in good enough shape to go this route.
My concern is “patching” cracks and paving them over, and then having them return in 2-3 years. We’re still talking $40k or more for this route, so it’s not chump change.
Plan c is to remove the courts, install topsoil and plant grass (also not free) or let them go to seed (not great for home values).
Can anyone comment on the acceptability of the patch and pave approach? If so, is there a specific method to use?
Also, can any Connecticut BTers recommend a capable contractor in Central CT (we’re in Farmington).
As always, many thanks!
-Rick
Replies
Asphalt is difficult to repair if it has a poor base or poor drainage. This will be seen by heaving during cold weather, a rippled appearance, and sometimes "potholes". If none of these problems are apparent then your base is probably good, and a simple overlay, while not yielding the best possible result, should be perfectly acceptable. Certainly it will crack (can't avoid that), but shouldn't crack badly.
happy?
Thanks Dan. I think our base is generally pretty sound.In the limited areas where we do have significant cracks, is there a "better" way to fix/stabilize these before an overlay?Thx. -Rick
I work for a consulting engineering firm and we have performed several tennis court overlays in one particular township. We have the contractor dig out the cracks to a minimum depth of 3" and a width of approximately 12". Binder is placed and compacted in the clean crack area, and covered with a product called Petrotac, making sure to overlap the edges of the crack. This product helps prevent from the cracks surfacing later in the above layers. Next we place a 1 1/4" stone dust screening base. Next a 2" binder course, and finally a 1" FJ-1 wearing course. It is important to have the layers placed by a self propelled paver to insure an even surface free of depressions. Also make sure the courts have a minimal cross slope of 1" per 10'. HOpe this helps.
Great info. Thank you!