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asphalt to concrete transion problem

cudavid | Posted in General Discussion on April 26, 2009 05:40am

Hi,

Where garage floor meets drivway,  12 year old driveway, in good shape, issue is lack of pitch, even has a  slight pitch for first 5 feet TO the garag! Water in garage is rare, the cement is up 1/4″ , the issue is the “canyon” opening up between the asphalt and garage floor

Years ago, I did cheap asphalt filler in a jug , when it was 1/4″ gap, then later years I did polyester rope and urethanne self leveling claulk, now after this winter, I cleared all it all out, I have a 3/4″ gap!

Best plan, cut driveway back 5 – 6 feet to re-pitch, could do cement myself (?)  may look weird, w/ transion to asphalt? Could also hire asphalt people to cut and redo? Issue is $$. I was thinking mortar mix, fill hole / slot up, then caulk any small gap, Is there a better way?

Thanks to all, Dave 

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Replies

  1. User avater
    Dam_inspector | Apr 26, 2009 05:46pm | #1

    Could you just put a drain grate in front of the garage? Like this: http://www.basementsystems.com/basement_waterproofing/waterproofing_products/basement_waterproofing_system/trenchdrain.php

  2. User avater
    Ted W. | Apr 26, 2009 05:59pm | #2

    You need to dig out the opening and fill it with expansion joint material. The caulk method only seals the top, but the soil under the caulk is still filled with moisture, which freezes and expands in the winter, pusing the slabs apart. Expansion joint material will absorb the expansion from frost.

    Note: I'm assuming you're in a frost zone. Fill in your profile (click on your username) and we won't have to take wild guesses. ;)

    ~ Ted W ~

    Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.net
    Meet me at House & Builder!



    Edited 4/26/2009 11:00 am by Ted W.

    1. cudavid | Apr 26, 2009 06:28pm | #4

      Hi, I filled out the profile.

      I am in RI, freeze thaw, and its in the crook/ elbow of an L shaped ranch that gets little winter sun in winter.

      It seems I am sealing top, but water is getting under, and soild is compacting/ washing away, resulting is more of a gap and more of a pronounced pitch towards the garage.

      It strikes me my option is change the pitch, then a normal sealing method will work, or add the trench idea someone suggested. If I fail to fix the puddling issue I asume I am spinn in the wind?

      I kind of like the trench grate idea, looks like about $7-800, (need 29 ft). I fear I need to pin/ anchor an angle iron to garage to ensure the car in and out does not sink the sections of the drain?

      Anyone one doie thsi as a retrofit? I would need to dig out say 12" add trench drain, then cement in place?

      Thanks, Dave 

      1. User avater
        Dam_inspector | Apr 26, 2009 07:00pm | #5

        That trench is sold at Lowes for a lot cheaper than 7-800. I think you would want to make a channel say a foot wide and pour concrete to hold the channel in place. Id undercut the asphalt and place concrete under it 6" or so so that the asphalt is supported by the concrete. Put an expansion joint between the edge of the concrete and blacktop, or put a removable spacer in, after removal put a good elastomeric sealant in there.http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=21600-676-241-1&lpage=nonehttp://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=21599-676-400&lpage=none

  3. [email protected] | Apr 26, 2009 06:19pm | #3

    Asphalt expands and contracts with temperature. It is also ductile, and deforms under pressure. By filling it you may be making the problem worse. The asphalt contracts over the winter, and by sealing the crack you are leaving less space than it needs to expand into during the summer heating cycle.

    You need to be sure that whatever you put in the crack has the ability to expand and contract with the slabs. And, will adhere to both of them.

    You might also consider cutting the asphalt at the crown, back away from the edge about 7 to 10-feet, so that this is an expansion/contraction joint narrowing the width that is expanding/contracting next to the garage.

    As your driveway ages, it will start to form a crack joint pattern on roughly ten foot centers. Be sure that you seal these every year. The best way is to blow out any loose dirt with compressed air, and then add the crack sealant. If the cracks are left unsealed, the fine soils will mix with water, and get pumped out. This results in a void. The void leaves the asphalt unsupported, and it starts to crack into the void. And, soon you have a pothole.



    Edited 4/26/2009 11:43 am ET by Jigs-n-fixtures

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