Short Question: How can I attach one end of a horizontal handrail to drywall? The other end attaches to a newel box.
Background: I’m replacing a decrepit handrail on an old house. I put blocking in to the height of the old rail after the plaster and lathe were gone and the studs were visable. But the old railing, alas, was not code height. Therefore, the blocking is not either.
I could put a trim piece against the wall and nail it to the blocking and the handrail to it, but I don’t particularly like th way that’s going to look. Ideas?
Replies
Cut hole in wall, insert plywood blocking, glue/screw to back of drywall, patch hole.
Another option, if you're really opposed to cutting open the wall, is a sort of super-sized toggle bolt that is sold by handicapped equipment outlets to mount grab bars. Fairly expensive, though ($35?), and won't develop full strength unless mounted on tile.
Bypass the sheetrock altogether. Install a 1x4 or 1x6 the full length of the rail. Nail or screw it to the studs. Screw the rail brackets to the 1x6.
Thanks, but the rail's not against a wall. It's between the stair opening and a hallway. Sheesh. Looks like I have to open up the wall.
>> ... but the rail's not against a wall.
You're right, I skipped right over that. Sorry.
Consider Wingits. They are devices for retrofitting grab bars into shower/tubs without blowing a big hole in the shower surround. Considering the stringent specs on grab bars, they should work on your bannister too. http://www.wingits.com
Excellent. That might really save me some hassle. Thanks!
I would consider using an oval rosette that complimints the rail. Cut a hole 1/2 " smaller than the rosette, insert a long piece of 3/4" ply, screw rail attached to rosette to wall....
I don't know if you know this trick... cut rail 1/2" longer than rosette. Fit at newel, then scribe to final length at rosette at wall. Cut leaving line on, screw rosete to rail, screw to inserted blocking...strong like borsch.
silver
That's a cool idea. Would an inspector sign off on that, assuming he asks?
I wouldn't have an inspector problem with it...and stronger than any kind of Molly you could throw at it. The entire piece of plywood would have to come through the drywall for the joint to fail...
BTW,replace the drywall cutout with plywood and you have a laminated wood sandwich(rosette,ply patch and ply filler all with glue between) if there is any doubt in your mind.
Or use the hole to slip 2 pieces stud to stud joined in the center with a ply gusset behind...construction adhesive on the faces and ends at the studs...yellow glue on the gusset.
Last resort is to cut the drywall, insert backing and patch. Rosettes are a standard detail on the rails I install and I have yet to patch.
silver
I've done this many times. Blocking is the best solution I've found. The trick is to open up the back side of the wall, so you won't have to patch around the rail or wait for the repair to dry before installing the rail.
I'd ask the guys at Wingit if your application is kosher. As another poster said, they may not develop full strength without tile. Also, they're set up to work with standard grab bars, where the appearance of a round chunk of stainless steel on the wall isn't an issue.
Andy
Arguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it.
Use half newel post adhered to the wall
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Yeah, that occurred to me too. I'm just trying to avoid creating another project, especially when I was expecting to be able to just screw the think to the wall.
I built the frame and panel newel box using a nice Roman ogee cope and stick set. Fun, but a bit of a project. I'd have to do that again to make the half newel to match. It still might be the best solution though.