What is the best way to attach a frame and panel overlay drawer front to the drawer box? The frame will be soft maple (painted) with either a 1/4″ mdf (painted) flat panel or 1/2″ baltic birch panel that is rabbeted on the edges.
I looked at the home center this evening and I only saw some plastic L-shaped pieces on the sides that appeared to be glued to the drawer front and drawer sides; the only screws through the front were from the handle.
Thanks,
Brian
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Screws from the inside. They are almost invisible as nobody looks at the back of the front.
But from what I saw at the store, the screws would be attached through the wooden drawer box into the flat mdf panel - will that hold securely?
Apparently, if you make the holes in the drawer box a little large and use washer-head screws, then you can adjust the drawer front to fit the opening.
Just make double sure the screws are not to long.
The last built in i did was my own master bath I inserted the drawers, held the drawer front in place and shot it with a 23 g micro pinner, opened up gently, clamped in place and drilled pilot holes and screwed with 1 1/4 truss head screws, the kind used for plaster repair.
"Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
Wier/Barlow
this gets good reveiws at Rockler.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=205
How thick is your panel and frame assy, you didn't say. You might try to screw into the frame through counterbored holes on the inside of the drawer.
Webby
Sorry - I'm not clear on to use that for attaching the frame; could you please explain?
thanks
Yes that is it, Oz has answered the question. It is a way to attach the drawer front, and align it.Webby
After you've aligned it, drill the handle-mounting screws through both layers and use them to lock up the position.
Forrest
We've been using drawer front adjusters, like the Rockler ones, for about 14 or 15 years. Just make sure the frames are wide enough to put the adjuster fully within the width of the stile, and use a carbide Forstner type bit. Gary W
gwwoodworking.com
Since you're building them, easiest is to make the stiles wide enough to screw from inside drawer box into them...not panel. Lots of factory cabs have "reduced height" rails but keep stile same as door.
The 1/4" hole and big washer head screw is the way to go. If your panel isn't flush with back of drawer and you're mounting hardware, pad the back flush so you don't bend or break center panel cinching hardware screws.
There is another way, I've done it once, and will try to avoid in the future...way to fussy. If you go this route, best way I found was to put double sided tape in between box and front and get most alignment done before installing the Kolbe Korner...not much adjustment.
http://www.fastcap.com/kolbekorners-poly.aspx
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