Looking for suggestions to attach a 1.5″ stock, on the flat handrail with balusters and bottom to a 6×6 post. The hand rail has a 1/2″ Dado on the underside. At the atchment piont, it goes hand rail to 1.5″ of trim deail, then post. Do folks pilot hole and screw or use angle hardware? This proch is 20′ of the ground iIwant it bomb proof.
Thanks,
Kevin
Replies
"I want it bomb proof."
Don't tell me you live in Idaho...
;-)
p.s. Fill in yer profile! Click on your Name on the "TO" line of this post, then click on the tabs, type, save...
"The Moving Finger writes; and, having writ,
Moves on: nor all your Piety nor Wit
Shall lure it back to cancel half a Line,
Nor all your Tears wash out a Word of it." - Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam
I don't think of a spindly little old 1.5" railing as bombproof, myself, but maybe they make small boms where you live...
;)
Eighther of the options you mentioned would work.
I didn't quite understand the 3/4" detail piece. Would this be like a rosette trim? if so, that adds a third option. You can make the cut to exact length, then use glue and screws to attach the rosette to the end of the handrail, place it al at the right location, and then run screws thru the rosette into the post
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Placement of the fasteners is important on any connection, especially this one 20 ft up. What's the withstand weight on a deck rail Paul, 250lbs?
You screw a rosette to the end of the rail, then screw the rosette to the post, all in a line with the grain and you've made an easily split connection.
And of course, don't use a fastener that won't hold up to the weather.
We don't want to see you on the news. Best of luck.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
"And of course, don't use a fastener that won't hold up to the weather."
Sadly true...no Piffin screws allowed!It is easy to be friends with someone you always agree with.
I did mention including glue in those joints, Cal, but I erred in assuming someone would already know about using structural screws for structural purposes.my focus on the lateral force went to the actual strength of the rail being so wimpy ( Notice my use of highly technical terms here?)
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Couldn't pass up the fasteners issue, what with your namesake and all. And the poundage on the rail, forget when I finally heard there was actually a code related number other than.........unh!, that'll hold.
Mary getting ready to whack that golfball?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I think this week, she's ready to whack her Bubba, LOL - Minor tiff
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oh boy.
tell her to take it out on the little white ball.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
LOL, You dio realize that there are places in this great country of ours where the only little white balls are made of snow?
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If you didnt get your answer, please further explain.
I see 2 different things here.
Question, Is the piece you are talking about a trim cap for your rail, or is it a structural member?
If it is structural it is called a plowed rail, and is usually used with square top balusters. Small finish blocks tuck up in between the balusters to cover up the fasteners/ nails.
If it is a cap, It should fit on the lower section and you could screw it from underneath.
On the structural, a railbolt goes in the end into the post.
For your application, brackets sound like a good method, you could recess them a bit into the post if you wanted to low profile them.... or you could recess the rail like a mortise, that would be bomb proof.
-zen
And you also realize there are places in this great land of ours called golf domes?
Or, go down to the valley.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Ha! All this time, I thought a golf dome was what you wear on your head to keep from being hurt by flying white balls that are full of the energy of redirected frustration and anger...
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you really don't understand the game, do you.
Now, what was this thread about?
Welcome to breaktime.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I am looking for the best way to attach the hand rail to the post.
Edited 3/20/2005 2:29 pm ET by Kev
The handrail is going over the top of the post (vs along the side of it), right? (Or do you mean that the handrail is dead-ending into the side of the post?)
Edited 3/20/2005 2:41 pm ET by DanH
What I did is install brass threaded inserts into the tops of the posts, then use SS flathead bolts into the inserts. For where my wife wanted to install a bird feeder I had to beef this up -- cut pieces of 1/2" copper pipe about 5" long, soldered the insert into one end, then set them in holes. Deck screws through the sides secured them.
I don't understand what the '1.5" of trim detail' is. This trim is on top of the post and they you're attaching the handrail on top of that??
something like this?
Sorry no closeups of the attachemnts
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prospero is really screwed up on attachments today trying again
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Hint: If Prospero hangs (on an upload or just a plain old click-and-watch), press the "stop" button on your browser (usually an "X") and then press the link or button you originally pressed to start things going. On a bad day you may have to do the 3-4 times.
or sometimes have to restart the oldPCso let's try again. Wghat has been happeneing is that after a few minutes, the attachement dialouge box will take me to my loggin
Looks like not this time...
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What did you use to attach the rails to the post?
Four structural screws at an angle like a toenailed joist with PL glue in the joint, top and bottom both. These are then plugged with bondo filler.Again, is this similar to what yours is going to look like????
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I've read your first description four or five times and still can't decipher what knid of system you are trying to do here, so it is hard to make a good recommendation until you respond to clear things up
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Kev, is this something like what you're looking for? I used 2 long trim-head stainless steel screws at an angle. I've used the same system for rails around widow's walks, 30' in the air. A dab of PL Premium construction adhesive would not be a bad idea at all.
Mike
mike, I think of the PL Premium for thesejoints as primarily to solidify and keep water out. if we just relied on the screws with some painters caulk, eventually water would wick in the end grain and weaken the structure of the rail wood, and thus -0 the joint itself. By adding the glue, I not only make it stronger now, but keep it stronger longer.
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The post go floor to cieling. The 6x6 have been cut to make an octogon the bottom 32" of the post is boxed out square with 3/4 material to widen it an create raised panel. Where the handrail hits is a 3/4x2" rail of the raised pannel. So the the 3/4x2" is attached to the post and the handrail attaches to the 3/4". I should pl both the trim to post and then the handrail a tonail will barley make cotact to the post.
Since it is that complicated and highly detailed, I would consider another possibility to add. You have a dado already in bottom of the rail ( I still can't picture whether your rail is a wimpy 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" or is a 1-1/2" thick and 5-1/4" wide or what" )I might get some angle barckets - galvanized - they have them in nearly every hardware store in the country. Mount the brackets up in bottom of the rails, then screw into the posts thru the down leg of the bracket. Than still use the longer structural screws. I use the ss from GRK canada. 4 or 5" should get you in.
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First cut pocket holes on the bottom of the railings, then use long deck screws -- long enough to put about 1.5" into the post.Or see if you can find an SS/brass/bronze version of some sort of KD cabinet fastener.
That makes sense. Seal up the end grain with the PL, and get the added benefit of extra strength?
I think this guy wants to keep it a secret what the railing looks like. From the first post I pictured a 2x4 on the flat, but he describes a pretty fancy post for such a plain rail.
Mike
i HAD PICTURED ONE OF THOSE CHEAP PRE-MILLED HD 1-1/2" high by maybe 2" W PT things
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It is no secret. The hand rail is 2x6 stock, on the flat, dado at the bottom for balasters. The top of the han rail has just enough positive drain angeld form center to each side. I just all 8 sides of the post today. I need longer fasteners because of the pack out, trim detail on the bottom. Let see to toe nail into 1 1/2" then through 3/4" then I need good purchase into mthe post. I think I may have to go with a 4" Timber Loc.
Not a secret now, but you had to be asked half a dozen times to let it out. Before that, you were leaving us playing a guessing game. That's wjhy i posted a picture with Q "does it look anything like this, and you still didn't answer.
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Yes, the connections are bacsically the same to your pics. Which are very nice by the way. The differnce being there would the 3/4 between the rail and the post. I am thinking will just go with a dab of the pl and some duct tape and call it good.
A wise guy eh? Why I otta...
In that case, use the 180MPH duct tape. It's what the troops use for bulletproof.;)
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