Avoiding usage of OSB & Plywood: Sheathing & Subfloor
Hi all, I am building a 16×20 music studio with a 16×10 loft. To lay the subfloor with T&G OSB would cost about $700. Sheathing the sides would be like $1200 or something. Now, not to be a conspiracy theorist here, but there seems to be collusion in regard to the pricing of these engineered materials… I can’t stomach it.
1. Can I forgo the subfloor? I’m planning on 24″ studs OC, so what if I made the joists 12″ OC, so that they line up and stiffen the floor? I am looking online and seeing old 3/4″ reclaimed oak T&G flooring for as little as $.40/ft^2. I am seeing 1″ red oak rough cuts for $1/board foot (but I’d have to cut the grooves in them.) I guess my point is it seems cheaper now to just build homes like it’s 1940. Which brings me to my next point:
2. I am thinking about diagonal sheathing. I want to put Tyvek around the studs and then use stained 1×6 rough cut boards from the rim joists to the top plate. With 2×6 studs filled with insulation, house wrap, and the diagonal boards, I feel like the house should be decently insulated. I am thinking of being practical in my building… I will need space to store materials on the east side of the cabin, and probably a wrap around deck from the north – west side, so I will have the roof extend 4-8 ft on 3 sides and I don’t think siding will be necessary there. I also think the diagonal sheathing will look cool and give the building some charm. Unlike OSB or vinyl, which IMHO looks like garbage.
I should just be buying the simple point and click materials, given my limited building experience. But, I’m more of an artist, and I feel like I have to be different/overcomplicate things. I appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
Replies
Even with 12 inch joists I don't think T&G flooring will hold up in the manner you describe. It just isn't designed for that.
If you don't want to use sheathing on the exterior just do let in bracing and normal (horizontal) lap siding. Angled siding will channel water to the corner and cause problems.
Serious question: where are you sourcing reclaimed T&G flooring for that price? Very interested in that.
I think you already know the answers to your questions and why someone with limited build experience might want to use tried and true methods.
From one overcomplicator to another, I understand your desire to think beyond the world of OSB.
Assuming that code issues are not a concern, you could do the following for the floor:
One layer of tongue and groove flooring that acts as the subfloor. Laid diagonally over the joists, face nailed. Then you can go back and put your finished floor over the top. It would also give you a much stiffer floor, eliminating the need for 12" OC joist spacing. (Prior to plywood, subfloors, when they were used, were usually just 1x boards laid diagonally... arguably more "tried and true" than OSB)
I agree with Greg, let-in bracing is necessary if you're not going to use a sheathing product for the exterior. Given the size of the structure, it wouldn't be a lot of extra work, especially considering the time you'll save not messing around with sheathing. Diagonal siding boards would add additional sheer strength to the walls.
Sounds like a fun project. Nice to see someone thinking outside the box.
Thank you guys very much for the feedback.
@mixxer fb marketplace, every once in a while. It's not THAT surprising to me, given like 40% of material being delivered to landfills is building materials. Probably most people throw flooring away, given their main cost is labor. The quicker it is removed, the more they save. Ppl that have money want new stuff, etc.
Let-in bracing seems really easy and practical, actually. I just need to figure out how many braces, where, and how much sheathing strength they provide. I may end up doing the let in bracing and horizontal boards for siding, as suggested. This is great. On the EXTERIOR, can one do diagonal sheathing up to four feet from the rim joist (like the distance a piece of OSB would cover) and then horizontal the rest of the way? I'm just wondering... haha. My cabin may end up being Willy Wonka-y. Which brings me to my next point:
For the floor, I think I decided on 5/4 red oak ($.80/bd ft here in VA, green). When dried and planed it should be about 1" thick. I'm gonna mold T&G into it when it dries and then lay those boards diagonally over my joists. May go to 6/4. My floor is going to be diagonal. Haters gon hate. I'm gonna have a sign when people walk in that explains how I didn't spend $3.50 / board ft on T&G OSB. The floor in its entirety costs less than the subfloor alone, even with waste, by a few hundred dollars.
Thanks again, guys (especially George whose message I found particularly encouraging.) Probably just has to be stamped by an engineer / approved as an agriculture building, since it's not a house.
Here’s metal bracing from Simpson.
There are a couple different kinds, what we were used to was a “T” shaped metal.
Been so long I’m foggy on how often to use between corners……study up at the Simpson site for code approval.
Glad you found my response encouraging.
Regarding your question:
"On the EXTERIOR, can one do diagonal sheathing up to four feet from the rim joist (like the distance a piece of OSB would cover) and then horizontal the rest of the way?"
... I'm not entirely sure what you mean by this, but if you can upload a sketch I'd be happy to comment.