Â
Does anyone have any tips on how to avoid tearing maple veneer plywood when you’re trying to countersink screws into it? The countersinking is going to be filled with a wood plug and I’d like to make the overall appearance of the plug as minimal as possible after its glued and in place. The last time i did this i got a little tearing aroung the hole. I’m using a 12 volt porter cable battery drill that only works on “low.” The high gear went out on a redwood greenhouse job a while back. Maybe if I got a new, faster drill the chances of veneer tear would be less? I’ve been putting it off for a while and am starting to think its this sort of problem that may neccessitate a purchase. Maybe I need to drill through a block applied over the hole first? that seems uneccessarily labor intesive. I know there must a be good technique for this out there. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Replies
I think you supplied your own answer....'drilling through a block'....and the higher drill speed. I drilled and plugged some Doug fir floors a few years ago and my block was also the templet for hole placement. And my countersink bit was sharp. I have a PC corded 3/8" drill that is very high speed...about 4000rpm if I remember right that I also use with flapwheel sanders when touching up log work...Probably a little less $$ than a cordless.
On some materials, drilling through a piece of masking tape keeps spintering down.
If you're using a brad point bit, make sure the spurs are razor sharp. If you do much of this, it might pay to get a file and a slip stone, or maybe several with different grits, so you can keep the spurs sharp.
I, too, think you need a higher speed. I have good luck with these:http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=825-028
I think they're Chuck Mates, and I think they're cheaper at Lowe's.
I also found that my brad point's drill thru veneers cleaner if I do a couple of twists in reverse. Yeah, another accidental discovery...of course, if you're in Australia, this might not work... EliphIno!
Hah! Always wondered what was being achieved with a brad point drill bit. Now I know. Just went to the hardware store and got one. Decided to give it a go solo before getting another, faster drill (which I will need eventually for something). It worked like a charm. thanks for all the advice.
This post has been pretty well covered but I will add a few points.
A sharp bad point is good. Putting on a layer of masking tape and drilling through it can also help. It seems to help to keep the bit from walking and provides a place to put pencil marks also. On fine dark woods the marks don't show up well and sometimes the pencil lines remain permanently indented when the job is done. Just use a professional grade of tape and remove it within a day or so so it doesn't stick too tightly.
try buying a good set of "fuller" brand counter sinking bits and use "fuller" brand plug cutters(they are four pronged plug cutters. Used these for drilling and pluggind boats decks and everything else for 20 years. They are worth every penny