Before committing to this project, I wanted to ask some general advice:
We are renovating our small kitchen which has three “normal” sized windows (double-hung, vinyl). They are in weird places and by removing them and filling up the holes, we would gain lots of needed wall space for cabinets.
My question: I would like to fill up much of each opening, but also install awning/basement hopper style windows in the middle (where the backslash would normally be). This way I can install new upper cabinets on the new wall above the new awning window (make sense?).
Anything to worry about here? The idea is to have natural light coming in during the day, and have the ability to open them for ventilation. I don’t want to take the windows out completely and this seemed like a somewhat elegant idea.
I should note: The previous owner installed the lower cabinets across the windows (since the sills are about 20″ off the floor and he didn’t feel like moving the windows up), making the windows useless (and not a pleasant view from outside).
Thanks to everyone for any advice.
Mike
Edited 11/1/2007 3:44 pm ET by MichaelNYC
Replies
How high is your ceiling?
Seems to me that transom windows above the cabinets would make for better light and ventilation.
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Michael,
Since we've lived in the home we've built I've often thought about "why" I didn't do exactly what you describe. From the seated position I could look out at the woods and that would be great. Further, I would probably have gardened with that in mind. Additionally it would add alot of light into the room (albeit at mid wall level-see Piffins post). If I were to put "####" in that space it would defeat it's purpose. Plan now for all possibilities.
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
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I just helped BIL design his place. He has a nice quite woods setting with plenty of hooved rats to watch.He also likes to sit at his kitchen table with coffee etc for a long time and look out.So in the kitchen we have a double hung with low sill - 28-29" - and a desk/table in front of it instead of cabinets all along that wall.
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I've seen some pictures of a couple kitchens with glass between the bases and uppers and man it is one neat look. But again, these had counters out the yin-yang, so no coffeepot/toaster/fruitbowl/breadbox/bottleofGaliano/breadmachine/flour-sugar-rice-tupperwarecontainers/nick-nacs to look through.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
If you do this make sure to take stock of the height at which these windows will project to the exterior in order to prevent people from walking into them. You want to (obviously) avoid head height.
Jeff
Don't forget code requires outlets at any counterspace.
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Very good point.
I usually don't pick up on the difficulties I created until much later in the process. ie wasted time
Michael,
I've done a couple of these. Light and ventilation is good, but visibility isn't so great depending on how tall the user of the kitchen is. If your 6' tall you won't see much when standing over the counter (with upper cabs abv.). If you do this I would certainaly opt for safety glazing, and as others mentioned layout as to accomodate recepticles. Maybe layout a mock up before ordering your windows.
While ideally I would like to make the entire backsplash a series of windows, it will only be three windows spaced about 6' apart. As someone mentioned earlier, I am 6' 5" tall, so I'll never see the view into our backyard unless I'm sitting down or praying that the cabinets don't fall down. And the outlet tip is a good one. Then again, maybe a backsplash made out of glass wouldn't be so bad. As yoiu say, no room for appliances. But I don't drink coffee anyway.Thanks to all for your good advice.
You might consider how easy/difficult it will be for shorter people to reach the window hardware from across the countertop. Crank open awnings probably are more reachable than doublehungs or casement latches, for example.
I like the idea of a lot of light coming into the kitchen across the countertop. The scenery would be constantly changing and I think it would add "depth" to that wall. Great idea.
"But I don't drink coffee anyway."
Do you have a medical condition that forbids it? My condolences, man, that's a serious commitment to health.
Loren Wallace for president.
Edited 11/2/2007 9:46 am ET by jimblodgett
OK, so now a construction question. The house was built in 1927 -- pretty basic wood construction with stucco exterior. I just assumed that I couldn't run a full bank of awning windows (12' long) since I would have to cut the exterior studs away, which would weaken that exterior wall. Therefore I envisioned a 4 or 5" gap in between each window (the windows would be installed between the studs, which would remain in place). I assumed that moulding on the inside would help cover the gap. Problem is that the windows wouldn't be continuous.Am I assuming correctly? Otherwise I would think I would need a header beam on the exterior wall to support the upper half.Thanks.
You *will* need a header over each window you install (unless the window fits between two adjacent existing studs -- interesting thread on that question here a few months ago). The real question is what size the header should be. Generally, the longer the span, the larger the header required, but there are a lot of other variables. The plus side is that header will give you a nice place to screw the upper cabs into.
I recently did a 12' span of casements in a 2"X6" wall and the architect specified a triple 2"X12" with ply spacers to achieve L360. YMMV, depending on what's above the header.
I've seen awning-type windows over the counter, between upper & lower cabs & I like the look. I don't *think* tempered glass is req'd, but I'd check with the BI to be sure.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I was just in a house that had windows as a back splash & it was a wonderful look. She had used sliding windows & it gave the impression of an almsot solid panel of glass with just a few dividers. That would eliminate the screen & exterior clearance issues.Bobbi
Tempered glass a must (maybe not required in your area but a good idea just the same) outlets can be installed on the bottom of the upper cabinets as well as your task lighting (obviously at night the windows will not give light.) also you can have glass doors and back less uppers cabinets with glass shelves over full sized windows as well. looks very nice with stemware and other glassware displayed this way with the sunlight shining through the glass. Also put inside cabinet lighting so again at night it is not a black hole behind the cabinet. I like that you are thinking out side the traditional also I would see how it looks from the outside as well it could make for a very ugly wall or with the right trim details look great you just want to make sure it IS and LOOKS planned out both inside and out.
I hate when I see window placements that only took the inside design into consideration but the out side looks odd. (and visa-versa)
Of course I am a dyed in the wool New Englander and we like our Georgian colonials with everything symmetrical.
You might consider how easy/difficult it will be for shorter people to reach the window hardware from across the countertop. Crank open awnings probably are more reachable than doublehungs or casement latches, for example.
Did you know that Truth makes motorized operator conversions for most operator type windows?
You could also do a hook on a pole with an eye on the widow ala the same as a skylight.[email protected]
Mike:
Don't forget about the screens. On an awning (top-hinged, outswinging), the screen will of course be inside -- not a wonderful material to have behind a kitchen countertop. An inswinging hopper will use exterior screens, but can create clearance isses -- for instance, at a tall faucet.
}}}}
Done right, it can be a great detail. The uppers will seem to "float" on nothing at all.
Do go back, though, and cipher out where your electrical will run--plugmold strips on the bottom of the uppers solves the initial problem, but, at the "cost" of dangling cords (which sometimes annoyed the Design Committee's sense of neatness).
Some considerations: Inswinging hoppers will be limited by anything placed on the counter. Outswing will need careful detailing to not collect rain or the like. Here in my part of the world, they "want" a 6'+ deep porch, or the solar gain is just too high all but one month of the year. Since you are going to get a lot of light on the counter, you may get fading, unless you block uv with a film or the like (which defeats the purpose of the view, a bit). Also, the line of windows can look odd on the exterior. It can be good to schedule a material change from the window heads up to the "typical" head height elsewhere on the floor, and the width of the lights. Otherwise, it can look really odd to have elvish windows "by themselves" on an exterior wall (not a bad idea to not paint window trim used in a contrasting color).
Oh, and the simplest way, sometimes, is to treat that area like it's like a sliding door, and header across the whole run of the lights, that lets install/order the windows in a single unit, which will give a good look.
Least best way to do this, has been done (near to death) down jsut north of Houston--sticking 3 2-0x1-3 FG lights on a run of 19' of cabinets, evenly spaced out, looks junky from either inside or out (fancy masonry head details being very orr to see only 54" up on the wall, too).
Like these? http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLandingReg.jsp?Uc=bn7rpq3.1x4kppuj&Uy=iie6lq&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&UV=226018958095_807942827207
I was pretty happy with the way these turned out. We just headered the whole wall. Send me a message if you want more info.