Haven’t worked with either, but wonder two things.
Does “hanging” the fibercement claps, with nails at 1-1/4 from the top, work? I would want to eliminate facenailing, seeing as how the heads must sit atop, without dimpling in flush.
What is your preferred way to nail up Azek, then make the holes or dimples invisible?
Replies
senco stainless steel finish nails do a real nice job,,,
If you read AZEK installation instructions they say not to use finish nails. Get some siding nails for your gun from Maze with the painted heads.
well like i said on here once before,we wrapped 11 6x6 posts last feburary with Azek using butt joints on the corners of the posts and then mitered base blocks with Azeks recommended glue.Also all Azek was shot on to the posts with 2`` senco stainless steel finish nails and to this day Dec `9 2004 everything is just as we left it back in feburary 2004(nice and neat).... so you do it what ever way works for you and i know which way i`ll be doing it...
shavey... we use SS. finish nails for our Azek also
as to the FC.. our preferred method is hanging it with blind nails.. 1 3/4 HDG roofers ( we get them from Maize )
any face nails are SS ring shank siding nails from a Bositch coil siderMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I was just passing on what AZEK says in their instructions, They say to use a siding nail. I have only used it once.
Gene,
Use siding nails as mentioned above or you can also use roofing nails. I used SS ring shank siding nails. If you use the 5,6 or 7 inch revel on the hardi, they nail down just fine at about 1 inch from the top. I mark all the studs so I am nailing directly into the framing and not just into the sheathing. Where you do have to face nail below windows, under returns, etc. you can set the head slightly intothe surface of the hardie and once you paint it, you will be the only one that can see it unless you are 2-3 feet away and looking for it. I used the pre-finished hardie on my house (and I'm still at it, been siding for almost 8 weeks (weekends and a few days off from my regular job)) I've gotten alot of compliments and it's my first time using any fc product. The color matched paint from Hardie is perfect and you really have a hard time finding the face nails unless you know where they are!
For the Azek, I used galvanized finish nails either hand nailed or from a finish nailer along with SS trimhead screws and gorilla glue or Azek glue. all the fasteners were set below the surface and the holes filled with exterior spackling. Some people use Bondo, but I only used that where I was making a repair or where I had to fill a large gap (at the ends of the dados where we installed the soffit and vents).
I'll attach a couple photos, but I'll try to get some closeups of the siding and trim and post them over the weekend!
Darin
Hardy's installation instructions specifically require that all nail heads be flush with the surface of the cement fiberboard. They require an additional nail be installed next to any nail that penetrates the surface of the siding and caulking of the nail head that penetrated the surface. The reason is that when a nail penetrates the surface, it is no longer capable of supporting the board as required.
John,
Good point, I misspoke when I indicated that I "set" the nail slightly below the surface, when in fact what I meant by that is the nail is flush, then I touch it up with the color match paint from Hardie. If you use a SS ring shank siding nail as Mike Smith does, the head is "textured" and will hold paint very well such that they are nearly invisible except for the guy that knows where they were placed or a very close inspection at eye level! Usually these face nails are used just around window cut outs or at the top near the freize boards. In my case we packed the freize boards out just enough to slide the top course under the freize about 1 1/4 inch, then I am face nailing just under the freize. When this is painted you really cannot tell where the nails are since they fall in the shadow line of the freize boards.
I have wondered about the same thing. All the books I have seen show clapboard siding nailed on the top side with the overlying board hiding the nails. anyone I have asked about this says to do it the same way. Seams logical....
But, I've been doing work on houses around here, Raleigh nc, for about 2 years now, and I can't remember ever seeing even one that has been done that way. Everyone I have seen is nailed on the bottom of the plank, leaving the nail head exposed.
I guess if there is an advantage to nailing on the bottom, it holds the siding tighter to the house, with the bottom nail going through both pieces of siding. But I always felt like water could be traveling in with the nails, and it doesn't look as good.
st