has anybody tried Azek trim for Hardie Plank siding…
does it work???
don’t want to change any more than I need or have to…
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming <!—-><!—-> <!—->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Replies
Just fine.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
We just had a product lunch by the local AZEK rep. They have improved their product line from a few years ago 5-fold at least!
The rep was discussing how many of her "clients" (local siding contractors) are using that very set up -- hardi siding with AZEK trim as a compliment (we are in Indiana). Seems like a winning combination, although expensive. She talked about many builders who use AZEK only where it would be absolutely necessary to keep water from ruining trim, and just primed spruce everywhere else.
Anyway, I would recommend looking into your local product rep -- start with finding the architectural rep online or something, and work down to someone who can give you references -- maybe you can decide for yourself after talking with some other installers if it's something you'd find advantageous.
HTH.
the Azek is already there, not quite a year old...
the Hardie will be new... so got to wundering if this combination was doable not have done it this way before... best way is what matters...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
I've done it and will do so again. I love Hardi siding, but absolutely hate the trim. Azek is superior by far to Hardi trim.
Unless you actually *like* handling trim like it was nitroglycerin, and dealing with all the busted sticks, that is. ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
trim is up...
was hoping I didn't have to replace it....
so I isnn't....
thanks...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
We do a lot of that combo. I prefer to paint the siding and the caulk. The only thing I don't like about Azek is the expansion/contraction issue.
how much expansion and contraction???
enough to cause the caulk joint to fail???
will me using OSI Quad color matched caulk and the siding is pre painted... keep in mind the Azek is already installed...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
For corner boards, and other narrow vertical trim, expansion isn't an issue if you use typical end gaps & caulk for the siding. Same over typical horizontal lengths, like head trim for windows & doors. Only place I'd even think twice is where you have a long length of Azek, like 10' or more, buting up to the end of siding. I'd allow a bit more calking room there.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
thanks...
I have three verticles over 10'...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
thanks...
done...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
I have found that the best way to handle what you intend to do is leave about 1/8" of space between the siding and the Azek. This allows you to use a pretty good sized bead that is keyed in to the crack and it seems to hold up OK. It also looks the best. You can get a good bead but it isn't all sitting on top to the siding.
Not only does the Azek move, but the Certainteed siding that we regularly use, moves somewhat at the joints with the changes in the seasons. It used to cause us problems with caulk splits at joints, but that has been taken care of by using a 1/8" gap between boards and caulking heavily in to the crack after the siding is up.
It doesn't matter what kind of caulk you use, if there is not enough caulk material to stretch, it will split apart and the joint will fail. If you caulk deep in to a gap, you will have enough caulk material to handle the movement.
OSI is good caulk and seems to hold up well, but we don't use it when we have to paint it because it takes a week or so to cure.
I would still use tarpaper or something similar under each siding joint. Not much you can do at the corners in your situation.
We use this combo exclusively, The expansion & contraction is a small problem @ butt joints to corners & trims, Leave the 1/8" gap apply some caulk behind the Hardi before it's placed & than a nice bead on face of joint. Try to use a close match to final paint color. We always used white in the past but now only clear, because with seasonal movement the paint cracks @ caulk joint & would show the white caulk,Dark paint & white caulk don't match well, W/ clear it is not as noticable
Sounds like a good idea to me!
Using SS screws at all joints (butt and scarf) will prevent shinkage. Make sure you are screwing into a framing member and that your joint's are staggered as such. All of our window assemblies were prefabbed in our shop with a pocket-hole screw system using SS screws. The PITA was transporting the floppy things to the jobsite.
Sheesh.
This is Azek with Certainteed fiber/cement siding. The siding is supposed to be 1/4" think........but............we've been getting some @ 5/16", and even 3/8" thick. Gotta cull them out and find another spot for them..........maybe on a smaller/separate wall are.
Otherwise than that, yeah....I think they work well together.
Ditto on the expansion/contraction issues.
Rod
nice... I like...
all of the siding is leaning to 5/16...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
What is that building?? I like the looks of it. Is it a 3 car garage or a firehall or??
Check out this thread 113369.1It's a private barn, 3 bays up, 3 bays below, radiant heat concrete floors each level. The owner is a car collector.
Rodhttp://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=113369.1
Edited 3/24/2009 5:52 pm ET by notagain
Beautiful Job!! I don't know how I missed that one before. I really like that kind of stuff. I'd like to have something like that in my backyard.
You and me both!