Back fill height for slab construction
Is there code for how high back fill should be when the construction is poured stem wall to a certain height, with brick on top of that, and a slab poured inside? The interior was probably originally dirt, as this is a carriage house. The poured walls are about 18″ deep and maybe 10 to 12″ wide. Brick walls on top of that.
The reason I ask is that I’m having a disagreement with the neighbor and I would love to have a code to fall back on. We get water in the garage, and I think it is because the dirt has been built up to where it comes up over the joint between brick and wall on that side. I want to remove a few inches of dirt, along with some mulberry stumps and fence posts, but I’ll need to get a small back hoe in to do it. Only about 22″ of the land is mine, and the remainder is the neighbors.
Oh yeah, there is a sloping roof that sheds to that side. No overhang, and there is a walnut tree growing up and overhanging the roof. Gutters don’t seem to be practical, and I want to put a drain tile in.
Replies
Bryan, If you want Code info, talk to the local inspectors/building dept. You might also ask them about the neighbor's house shedding water onto your land. In New York, it's "illegal" to regrade your land so that water runs onto your neighbor's property. Likewise, you might be entitled to tresspass onto his land if there's no other way to maintain/protect your property. That being said, water can get through many cracks and voids, and if there are any gaps between the top of the wall and the brick, that's certainly a problem.
Don
Thanks. It's my carriage house that is shedding the water. Her garage is gabled, and she has gutters that she has to clean about 10 times a year...I dug some stuff out of there, and it has to be the best soil in the area. I'm thinking years of decomposing walnut twigs. Those get over everything.Anyone wanna make walnut stain?
Walnut trees - especially black walnut, give off an exudate that is poisonous to many other types of plants - protecting it's territory, so to speak.I would hesitate before doing any tresspassiung or encroachment onto a neighbor's property. I can see her having a problem with you building up higher to cause more to run off onto her, but by digging down lower, as long as you do not undermine a structure of hers, it helps her drainage rather than hindering - so what is her objection?
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I think the neighbor believes that everything on her side of the fence, including the fence, is hers. Basically, she objects to having the rear fence removed to get the equipment in. And there ain't no lawn there.Of course, this is the same neighbor who said that the bottom of the fence was rotting out because the dirt she piled up on it had washed away...To her credit she listened when I said that I thought maybe it rotted BECAUSE the dirt was piled up there, and maybe some gravel would be a better choice.
Rule of thumb I know is that the grade shouls be at least 8" from the top of the concrete. That's part termite control as much as flooding, IIRC, though.
If the soil is up even with the bottom course of brick, the weep holes that should be there can carry water inside the structure--so that can't be good.
Is there any real working space here (bobcat, box blade, etc.), or is this going to be norwegian steam and shovels to fix?
Ok, [homer:duh!] you wrote it right down in plain sight--22" wide. That may be fun. Hmm, find out what a mini excavator runs at the rental place (be prepared for a crash course in grading, though--pun intended).
Edited 5/17/2005 6:27 pm ET by CapnMac
The 22" is MY side. There is about 10 feet or so total, but I'll have to remove a fence section and get permission from my neighbor. That's why I want the code backup.The backhoe is mainly to remove all the mulberry stumps and fence posts. But also to make it easier to remove the soil. I want to pull the soil out and screen it for use in the beds.I'll get some pictures tonight.
The miniexcavator has a backhoe arm and usually a small blade, so that may be the right combo for you.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I found that you really can grade, as least I COULDN'T, grade with the blade on the mini-ex that I had. It is OK for pushing dirt back into a trench, but that is it.A mini loader might be the deal for this. And you can get them with hoe and buckets.
A mini loader might be the deal for this. And you can get them with hoe and buckets.
Hmm, you mean like on a skid steer, not on like the 4x4 kubota tractor, right?
I was thinking that the m-e bucket would give enough "oomph" to get the stumps out, while the wide tracks would minimize torn-up neighbor's lawn.
I've had mixed results with the kubota-sized tractors as rentals--seems like you wind up with either a working loader bucket or a working hoe; but not both at the same time. That might be becaus folk like me rent them <g>, too . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I guess compact loader is the generic term. They are walk behind skid/steer used for "landscaping" type of applications.http://www.finncorp.com/loaders/eagle244d.htmhttp://www.compactequip.com/features.php?Show=compactloadershttp://www.toro.com/professional/sws/loader/400/22308.html
walk behind
Ah, ok, now I got you; I've seen them, never operated one. Sorely tempting now, too--I wonder who's place needs something torn up . . . <g>Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I haven't either.But I know that the small execvators are FUN.
I know that the small execvators are FUN
That's no lie. Even more fun at somebody else's house (and their dime too <teehee>) . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Here are a few pictures, but I couldn't get back there today to get a close up, and there are weeds sprouting up.My carriage house is the light colored (yellow) one.
A shovel, mattock and wheelbarrow will work wonders and build character. Your enhanced physique might even win points with DW/SO - at least it worked in my case ;).
But where is the fun in that? Oh wait, I remember now, indoor sports!Anyway, have you ever pulled up a mulberry tree root? They pretty much go through to China.Plus I have a host of medical issues. I definitly want to use hydrolic power. First, I have to get past the neighbor.
I definitly want to use hydrolic power. First, I have to get past the neighbor
Yeah, wow, and without bumping into her stuff, either. Not much room in there for a stump grinder, either.
That mulberry'd give a person medical issues, if they did not have them already.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
What I'm hoping is that I can remove the fence at the back, and basically just reach in with the arm of a backhoe type digger from the alley. I'm not sure what the reach of the arms on the smaller units is.
not sure what the reach of the arms on the smaller units is
Well, remember that the "oomph" at the bucket decreases the further out to the limits of the boom you get. Murphy seems to delight in putting the hardest (or least easy) work in the "good" reach of the machine you have <tired grin>.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
And there is no way I'm going to get to the other side of the walnut tree at all with a digger. Actually getting into the space from the alley shouldn't be too bad, but I'll have to be careful where I swing the arm. I'll probably try to hire it out anyway. I don't want to risk my neighbors garage.
I'll probably try to hire it out anyway. I don't want to risk my neighbors garage
I consider my self to be a tad ham-fisted with a backhoe--but I've seen worse operators with hired operations. Something about apying your money and taking your chances.
One way to vet prospective operators--if they don't ask to talk to the neighbor, too, I'd think long and hard about hiring them. (I know I'd ask--if just to know I wasn't walking into a Hatfield v. McCoy border dispute; don't ask me how I know . . . )Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I don't know about codes, but you are right about the mechanics. The soil should start a couple inches below the slab and grade away from there.
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