Hey everyone:
Here is a picture of the construction of my rear porch. I am not happy with the way the windows are configured right next to the door. It is not what I asked for but the contractor will not move them and I want my project finished. Any recommendations as to how this can look better without moving the windows and door? Maybe a fixed transom window above the door?
Thanks!
10D
Replies
Is you're complaint the difference of height in the head casing?
You could fill in the space above the door with a solid trim board to match the height of the head casing on the windows.
In my opinion that would go miles in making it look better.
what type of siding will the porch be receiving?
CAG-
Yes, one of my complaints is the difference in the height of the head casing - the other one is that the windows and door "share" trim boards because they are set too close together.
Thanks for your thoughts. Do you think the trim board would cut it? No transom window (and extra$$) necessary?
Here are some pictures of the house during construction - I've been waiting to post pictures unti the project is finished as I discussed it in the planning stages back in April and May in this forum. Anyway, it is sided in cedar shingle panels on the upper portion and cedar lapboard on the lower portion. Five colors all together. 4 months of residential and other upheaval . . .
10D
I don't know if it will make it look all that much better, but it won't hurt, and it's pretty cheap to find out if you like it or not, pop a board up there, if it still looks bad at least you tried.
why were the windows set that high? was that in the drawings? did you see an elevation drawing before and this simply doesn't match it?
if that's the case you have a better leg to stand on
as a personal opinion I don't think the window and doors sharing that leg of casing is all that bad, the height issuse is IMO.
With the smaller window off to the left of the door/windows and with out seeing whats behind that wall, I'm guessing moving the windows over would be a major pain.
You could try to find some way to detail the area below each window that flanks the door in a way to make it look more like one unit instead of two misplaced windows with a door in between them.
IMO the real problem is the height difference at that top and with the windows flanking the door so close, it makes the whole area look "top heavy"
Last thought, if you can resolve the height issue at the top, either with a trim board or a transom like you suggested, (which I think would be hard to pull off becuase the area is so narrow) Put some custom sized planters right under each window which would cover the area below the windows... sure it isn't the best idea, but it is late...
why were the windows set that high?
CAG-
Take a look at my response to EH. The red trim band goes around the perimeter of the house and all of the windows sit on that band (or above it). The small window on the left was originally that height but twice as wide - I wanted it replaced with a narrower window because that is the pantry area of the kitchen and eventually I am going to put the fridge in there - - (it's impossible to plan even the outside of the house without it effecting the inside decisions.)
I agree that the height of the casing is the worst part. What do you think of the other post that recommends thinning out the casings all around the windows? If I did a transom, the opening could only be 6 inches high. I wonder if that would be goofy as well.
Put some custom sized planters right under each window which would cover the area below the windows...
I wish I could - but you are looking at a door to the basement below the second
window.
Thanks for your help.
10D
Please feel free to correct me if I'm barking up the wrong tree here, but............
If that window sill/band extends around the entire house and its height was established prior to the work on the rear of the house..and another contractor figured and acquired the windows in question........then doesn't the current problem exist because that contractor ordered windows that are too tall to both sit on thhe band and stay in sync with the door head casing?
Even if all that is true, it still doesn't resolve the aesthetic problem you have now and I have to agree that I don't much care for the shared side casings either. Seems like maybe the cheapest way out of the window heighth problem is to get shorter windows. ??? Or maybe that would put the head casings out of sync with the other sides of the house. ???
No answers here really. Just more questions and conjecture.
Edit: Okay, potential resolution. Yank the head casing over that door and replace it with a "gabled pediment" casing. You've got a gable roof right over that door to echo the shape. Run the ends of the pediment straight up until they're flush with the top of the window head casings and then start your slopes to center. Maybe laminate a smaller secondary gable-ish shape on top of that piece to set it off viusally. Maybe paint that secondary laminated piece the same red as the window sill/ledge to tie it in nicely and give it a bit of distiction.
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Edited 9/22/2004 10:03 am ET by GOLDHILLER
Edited 9/22/2004 10:04 am ET by GOLDHILLER
Edited 9/22/2004 10:06 am ET by GOLDHILLER
Yank the head casing over that door and replace it with a "gabled pediment" casing.
This sounds really good. Can you describe this to me? got any pics? where are you in IL - I am in IL . . .10D
I'm in the Freeport, Il. area.
No pics on hand at the moment that I can think of, but we did one like this a few years back to resolve an aesthetic "problem".
Gotta get to the job, but will try to post a drawing of the notion tonight. It'll be dark and then some before I return.
Edit: That pic that Rez posted has potential, too. Just a straight built out pediment that would fill the area over the door till it's flush with the top of the window casings.
Time to get creative. All sorts of different stuff a person could do here. Could be a valuable and beneficial lesson in how to make lemonade in which you end up with something nicer than if things worked as originally envisioned.
Maybe gabled pediment with "shallow roof" and tiny little scroll supports under that. ???
Different approaches could porobably be made up with nothing more than scraps laying around and then have a look/see. Tweak it from there.
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Edited 9/22/2004 10:50 am ET by GOLDHILLER
That pic that Rez posted has potential, too.
Did I miss something - I can't find a pic posted by Rez, just my pics.
"Did I miss something - I can't find a pic posted by Rez, just my pics."
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=47808.11
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
What a hack job. Somebody didn't think to set the windows to the correct height. Probably designed by some archy fresh out of school in Kansas.
I would withhold payment and lean on the contractor to make it right. That is ... unless you told him what windows to use, and what height you wanted the window sill, etc.
A quickie fix would be to make the window head trim as small as possible, and the door head trim as large as possible, so it looks like one board across all the openings with notches cut in the bnottom of the board to clear the openings.
No, better to have it changed so it's right. You will always hate it everytime ytou see it.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Ed H-
Thank you for your suggestions. Yes, I hate it.
This is the digest version of the "whole story:"
The contractor was supposed to draw a design and provide the specs for the windows and door. I asked him many, many times and he just waved me off. I drew designs myself, and gave him pictures of what I wanted and he still did not provide a plan or specs. This went on for two months. Finally, he said that he would use vinyl windows from Home Depot but he did not know the cost or the model information. I did not want vinyl windows, and so I arranged for another contractor who is working on the inside of the house to do all the measurements and order wood windows and a wood slider through a vendor he works with. The first contractor was pissed that I didn't get the windows and door through him. I gave him the exact measurements and description of the windows and door I ordered a month in advance of their arrival. I also drew out how I wanted them set in.
He set the windows about 2-3 inches too high - they are propped up on blocks. I told him to lower the windows and he refused. I also said that the door and window to the right of the door should be moved a foot to the right each and he claims that there is no support under the porch for the door. I asked him to put a support in . . he refused. This guy is incredibly hard to deal with he is almost finished siding the house (that is another story for another post).
The long answer to your short question is: I ordered the windows and door. The installation height of the windows is dictated by that red trim band - the windows were to land on the band - they are set above it.
Now, what do you suggest? Is it my "fault" because I ordered the materials? What needs to be done to make it right as opposed to the quickie fix, in your opinion?
10D
I am reminded of a saying, "Do not complain of what you permit."
Why didn't you fire the contractor 2 or more months ago when he refused to do as you wanted or stone walled you on the details?
Hopefully you still have monetary leverage. If not, you have gained some expensive experience and should still drop the guy in his tracks.
Then you can figure out how you can get what you really want.
Do you have a contract - with specifics?
How about a building permit?
Ralph,
There is always a "whole story." This is my second contractor. I fired the first contractor who had no idea what he was doing, did close to nothing in 2 1/2 weeks, admitted that he spent the contract money on personal problems and then asked for more money. He placed a lien on my house. This second contractor took the job for siding only knowing about the lien. The lien enforcement deadlines have been blown by the 1st contractor and I have a five count complaint ready to file in court and a consumer fraud complaint with the state attorney general's office - while they hunt him down (moved, disappeared, etc..) I have all the experience I need at this point . . .
The second contractor said that the porch should be remodeled at the same time as the siding- which was not in my plan. I agreed because I was convinced that it made sense to do it all at once and because this guy has this sort of "cult of personality" that he says he can do everything great. The contract spells out what he is to do, but does not include a drawing or details because that is what he never got done. He has done a tremendous job on the siding and has fallen apart on this part of the job. I already have advice to fire him, and I do still owe money, but I am so sick and tired of this after what I went through with the first contractor that I guess if I can get a look that you all could live with based on what is there now, I could live with it.
I have a permit for the windows and door, but not for the deck.
10D
Ten- What is needed is a frontal pic of the whole house if you can.
here are two pics of front. Or at least one pic (download unclear) back later
10D
Does the permit you filed with the city have any kind of drawing attached?
Ya know, modifying the trim on the outside of the house could make that elevation look acceptable ... but what happens on the inside?
It may not entirely be the 2nd contractors fault. This second contractor took the job for siding only and then at some point you convinced him to take on more work. Looks like he got in over his head.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
and then at some point you convinced him to take on more work.
Ed, He convinced me! And yes, he is in over his huge head.
10D
This won't make you happy, but - if my impression from the pic is correct - it looks like:
1) The overall work looks good
2) The contractor took on a risky job, but appears to be doing it professionally
3) The height of the door is established by the floor behind it and cannot be changed
4) The height of the windows is set aesthetically at the trim line
5) Apparently someone ordered windows that are the wrong height
6) The contractor accommodated the height discrepancy as well as possible given the situation
7) This is th back yard, so whatever solution you take with the trim will be relatively inconsequential
8) The easiest fix looks like ordering three new windows that match up to the door - the openings are already there and the siding is not on yet - just fill in above the new windows, lower the trim, and you'll be looking great. The cost for the windows has to be less than for consultation with a lawyer
9) Tell your contractor that you finally understand why he did what he did and apologize, even if you two got off on a bad trip. He may be able to help you.
10) As for the windows right next to the door - he would have to support the entire ceiling, take out the windows and door, rebuild the load-bearing wall, and could then place the new windows anywhere you want. This should only take about three days and a relatively small amount of money, since I assume you want to stay in the the home and don't want to live with this problem.
11) Bottom line: apologize, throw yourself at his mercy and hope for a reasonable estimate - and stay out of his way until the job is done.
12) Good luck
13) If this does not appeal to you - stop the work, pay the contractor, and admit nothing - he may let you off the hook with a bill for what he has done up to now. Then find someone else or do the work I suggested yourself. Be careful about supporting the ceiling joists when rebuilding the wall - this is a job for an expert.Les Barrett Quality Construction
It is not your fault because you got the materials that you wanted and ordered them yourself. Most of the time contractors add a percentage on materials, but that percentage generally covers the hassle of ordering, picking it up, and so on. The percentage is not a real money-maker and, unless your contractor is amazingly over-charging you, there should be no problem.
Your mistake in this deal is that you should not have allowed work to progress without your builder providing a plan. Without a plan and his signature on the plan, or an agreement, you have little recourse. If you refuse to pay him, he can file a lien on your home and on and on. From hereon, I suggest:
Terminate his services and pay him in full for services rendered. (Unless he is a real thug and tries to charge you for project completion- then see your lawyer)
Extend the head trim over the door to the same height as the adjacent windows.
Side the house, or stucco it... whatever you are doing.
Add a little crown (1 1/2" or so) across the little window and the window/door/window to tie it together stylistically.
You won't have to change what's been done, you get rid of an unscrupulous jerk, and you learn the lesson to be more proactive in a project that involves your home and your money. Best of luck, Neil
In case y'all missed it, here's the reason the windows are the wrong height (from message 6) ...
and so I arranged for another contractor who is working on the inside of the house to do all the measurements and order wood windows and a wood slider through a vendor he works with.Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Ed H -
FYI, I just found the only written info from the contractor describing the windows he was going to install: The current windows are approximately 37 x 60 (H). The original specs, for the vinyl windows I did not want were 28 1/2 x 72 (H). 72!!!! The door was spec'd the same: 6x7. 72 and 6x7 - that would have been so much worse!! Plus, there is no space for 72!!
I know you are thinking that the contractor was done wrong by the inside contractor, but if you were only here to have the full experience . . . Nevertheless, I appreciate your perspective.
10D
Could you drop back and get a whole shot of that porch?
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I just took this and the sun is washing out the details - see if this helps. Otherwise, I'll be back late this afternoon.
10D
Maybe try another one later, and could you reduce the size just a bit so we can get the whole pic on the screen.
You are right in being concerned in the look of this area. Looks like the windows were there and the slider you got on sale and tried to cramb it in there. Smaller casing might help it look right. Maybe run a head pc continuous from the window on the left all the way across to the window on the right, dummy up a recessed panel or something, over the door to that head pc. Make it look different than the head casing. Could you shoot a close up of the window and door frame and how it sits to the wall? Is the casing applied next to or over the frame? Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Ten
This is salvageable - if you can get a real carpenter or one with a better attitude about who is boss. proper use of the checkbook can help that problem, possibly even with this guy, tho I doubt it.
This looks to me like a craftsman bungalo.
The door and window trim should not be larger than the corner boards, IMO.. The other windows you show and the neighbors windows all have narrower trim than that flat stock
What I would do is similar to CAG's suggestion, leaving the opnnings where they are. There could be reason structurally why it is inadvisable to move them now.
I would add a trim stock aligning with top of window stock, but have it bump out another inch over the door. Then run a crown at the top of all three units, bumping out at the door, which will set it off bolder.
Then - I think I see a smaller trim molding like a backband on the other window s you have. You can add that onto the flat stock for these three at the same distance from edge of window and door so they are trimmed as three separate units. Jusdicious use of colour or shading can help differenciate the separateness - if that makes sense.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin - good ideas.
What do you (and all) think of my "mock window" idea to balance the other side?
10D
Wow.
There's a whole bunch of issues here. Like not measuring the existing windows (height, especially). Then compunding that by somebody going to the big box store and just ordering the "closest" size.
Hmm, that brings a question. Is the head of the slider the same height as the rest of the windows in the house? (If the existing windows have a 7-0 head height, a 6-8 or 6-6 slider would be off that much, if the windows are "up" on blocks.)
Do the heads of the two windows in back line up with the rest of the house?
So, it's a big mess. There's probably no simple solution at this point.
To fix the porch elevation, I'd look at a half elliptical window to make a transom over the slider. The round shape will "break" the horizontals you will have, and almost look like it was "meant" to be that way. I don't know if you have enough ceiling height over the slider to but in a 15-18" tall transom (you'll want that much to make it an "element" not an uh-oh).Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
i'm sure this is a stupid idea but i dont' suppose you could customer order a slideing door that is taller?
None of the ideas here are stupid. (If only some of the posters would keep that in mind. (heads up those of you who are passing judgment about my situation without knowing the whole story . . . walk a minute in my shoes. . .)
I think that was the tallest door available, otherwise I would be right there.
I am proceeding with a combination of the trim ideas you all have recommended. So far I have had the contractor cut back the casing around the windows from 5 1/2 " to 4" and paint the installed sills green to match the casing trim instead of red to match the banding. I already looks much better. I should have an updated pic by the end of the week.
I love the photoshop pic with the balanced-out window, but it would fall right on a load bearing wall and be half in a closet, half on the porch. Can we all let the balanced window idea go? I think I'll hang a light over there.
10D
I would expect that the biggest problem in using a taller door is the header placement. You would probably need to tear apart the entire wall and reframe things to change the door heioght or the window placement. If you have the disposition, the skilled help, and the money, go fot it. You can get sliding dors up to at least Eight feet tall.
But I don't read that you have the time and skills to do that. So I was trying to respond to the situation at hand, You already seem in over your head with the 'help' you have on site.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Seems like if the deck is finished and a suitable railing is applied the door and the single window beside it will be hidden from view and the view from a distance will be greatly improved.
If you only use the access door for service you might consider extending the deck on over under the other two windows, then you would only have to fix the top of the windows to make everything look right.
You could also build a bench under the windows to make it look like you planned it that way.
Form follows function.George Bush
FOUR MORE YEARS
I think, if I didn't just move the low window up, I would make it look more purposeful by putting in a wide board above it and painting that board the same red as the band below the windows. Or I would make a framework of quarter round trim (painted the same red) and fill it with decorative tiles or copper so it looked planned.
I think, if I didn't just move the low window up,
Danno,
Do you mean the low door (or does it look like a window from my picture . . ?)
I hadn't thought of painting the board red on top, maybe that would do it.
Thank you.
10D
Assuming that you "can't" get them moved here is something to think about.
Pull the top casing off the windows and then run a 2nd "red band" just across the top of the windows, just like at the bottom.
Then either trim or fill in the small difference on the top of the door casing so that it dies into the band.
Far from perfect, but I think that it will helps somewhat.
Yeah, right, it is a sliding door, not a window, so obviously can't be moved up. I think red would help above it, and since it is a craftsman bungalo, decorative tile or copper work would fit nicely. The idea of a false window on the right to match the narrow one on the left is a good one. Maybe a mirror, or something shiny like a window but not. Maybe you could balance it by putting a lantern or light thingy of some sort on that side?
Is there really any reason to stick with the craftsman aesthetic when trying to fix a screwup involving a sliding glass door which already completely violates it? That whole elevation looks bad when compared to the front of the home, not just because of the window/door alignment, but because of the window/door selection. I'd consider removing the slider, selling it on ebay, and switching to a single inswing door centered in the space. If made of wood, as the windows are, the door can be custom made so the height matches the windows, and it would certainly look better on that house.
Or how about commissioning a really cool stained glass elliptical or gabled transom for over the door? It would require reframing the header, but it would add a nice feature to that porch and could be sort of statement for your home - your personal stamp on the project.
If neither of those is in the budget, just fiddle with the trim as others have suggested and then drink enough so it doesn't bother you.
I agree that you need a window or mock window on the right to balance things, but I think you could run into that gutter over there with it, so that would look even worse. This time MEASURE CAREFULLY.
If neither of those is in the budget, just fiddle with the trim as others have suggested and then drink enough so it doesn't bother you.
Although I agree with your other suggestions, this is all I can do at this point financially and emotionally. I'll post pics of the fix - if you hate it, please don't tell me.
Maybe you could balance it by putting a lantern or light thingy of some sort on that side?
I do have a light fixture to go there. I actually bought two - one was supposed to go to the left of the door. I have also had the recommendation to plant a tree on the right side.
10D
I would try something along the lines of CAG's suggestion of putting a wider head trim piece above the door. Treat the slider/2 side windows as one unit. You could even wrap some of the red trim around the perimeter.
What throws everything off for me is the small window on the left hand side. If I look at the picture that JohnT8 reposted (in message 47808.28) and cover up that small window, the back looks much better. Is it possible to get rid of the little window completely, or double up two small ones next to each other, or a larger window close to the size of the two flanking the slider door. I would try to get the space between the side of the house and the left most window the same as the space between the left most window and the left window flanking the sliding door. Try balancing that out more.
-m2akita
Many find that small window to be a problem. The small window was my idea, to accomodate putting the refrigerator in that room - the former window in that spot was, ironically, the same size as those two larger windows. I could have ordered a large window but chose to decrease the size. I am sure there was no window there when the house was originally built - but the porch was not enclosed, either. Your assessment is exactly why I wanted the door and window to the right moved over a foot each toward the right - for balance.
What about my "mock window" idea on the other side to balance? One poster suggested a mirror. How about A TROMPE L'OEIL in the window frame?
You see why I entitled this discussion a "fiasco."
10D
Ah, no, it's an "opportunity for creativity". If it was really bad you'd call it "leadership".
Be very careful of the "mock" window, if you go that route. We have one at our church, placed to balance the aesthetics, but actually behind the landing of a stairwell - just a blank wall behind it. The commercial builder even placed a good quality aluminum blind on the window before blocking it up. 15 years later, it's a dirty eyesore from the outside. Spider webs, insect eggs, water stains, discolored blind, and vermiculite block core material sifting out from somewhere.
If you do this, be sure you leave the sashes unlocked so you can get in there to clean.
As others have said, I'd lose the small window on the left. You'll regret the loss of light less than the odd look to your rear wall. Or spend the $$ and get it like you really want it once and for all.
Greg
Actuyally, leadership is what is lacking here
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
you think? (insert one of those immodiums here, smiley face or something else good).Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Excuse the clumsy Photoshoping, but I had to get an idea of what it would look like (see attached).
10D, even though us Breaktimers are sitting here playing armchair quarterback, just keep in mind that :
1. Porch is secure
2. Porch is weathertight
Are really the important issues. From those pictures it looks like both #1 and 2 have been met. Don't let the balance issue bother you too much, after all we're talking about the BACK of the house. It isn't worth another grey hair to worry too much about it. As another poster mentioned, it isn't like you'd want 100% authentic Craftsman anyway, so just get it as close as you can and shoot for a functional space. And once the deck (or stairs?) is on there, I think you have a good space.
Fire up that Weber, get the T-bones out of the freezer, and keep a cold beer within reach.
jt8
Since the narrow left window seems to be causing heartache with the resident design gurus, and you don't want to remove it cuz it admits light where you want, what about changing it to a shorter window? Like one you would see over a kitchen sink or a bath? Keep the width and the header the same, raise the sill.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
what about changing it to a shorter window?
Great idea. I thought of too, only after the current one was installed. Remember I have a lien on my property and can't access any funds? Let the design gurus wriggle in their seats - this window stays.
10D
" Remember I have a lien on my property and can't access any funds? "
What is the status of that.
In some states I think that the person needs to "perfect" the lien by going to court within a period of time.
In others I think that you can easily challange it and they they have to show proof.
What is the status of that.
In some states I think that the person needs to "perfect" the lien by going to court within a period of time.
Bill H -
Thanks for asking. Do you mind if I serve up a little primer on Illinois Mechanics Lien Law?
The early 20th century mechanics lien law is drafted in favor of contractors - unions, to be specific. Before you all begin cheering and hollering, remember that it was designed to remedy unions getting ripped off in large municipal building projects.
Here in Illinois anyone who lifts a hammer and knows what a nail looks like can go down to the Office of the Recorder of Deeds and record a lien on a property without even showing a contact or having any evidence whatsoever of being owed money. The lien is recorded and unless the contractor sends a copy to the homeowner, he may not even find out about it until he goes to sell his house.
In my case, I had a three phase contract for repairs and painting on the exterior of the house. I used a contractor recommended to me by someone I have known for 8 years. I gave this guy 33% of the contract price to start the job, which was actually in excess of the 1st phase of the work. I had him sign a waiver of lien for the entire amount of the check. He cashed my check at a currency exchange and explained it was because "he had trouble with the bank and he closed his account." Now before you start wheezing about that red flag, remember that he was a referral from someone I trusted. After 2 1/2 weeks, he had completed almost nothing of the work. He didn't show up, started late, brought uninsured workers to the site (failed to carry workers comp ins.) damaged property - essentially had no idea what he was doing. I received reports as to him and his "crew" standing around from a stay-at-home next door neighbor. After he asked for another advance because he "spent the money I gave him on "personal matters," I fired him. Shortly thereafter, he recorded a lien on my property for the entire amount of the contract.
And now back to the law: In Illinois, after a homeowner receives notice of a lien he can send what is called a "section 34 demand" letter to the contractor to enforce the lien. If a lawsuit is not filed by the contractor to enforce the lien within 30 days, the lien is forfeited. I sent the notice; he received the notice; he failed to file suit within 30 days. You would think I could just get the lien "removed." Not so easy.
In order to get the lien removed, a lawsuit must be filed. Since he didn't file one, I have to. MEans I have to spend money to file a lawsuit, attempt to serve him (wait, I forgot to tell you he has a police record for domestic violence and his house was foreclosed) wait 30 days for him to answer, and then go into court on a motion to declare the lien invalid and to dismiss for want of prosecution. Attorneys who do this charge $250/hr.
So, I filed a complaint with the office of the attorney general and am hoping that they will drag this guys #### in and get him to sign a release of the lien. I have waited a month so far and am going to give it about 2 more weeks before I file my own complaint - pro se. Needless to say, I don't have the $$ to pay an attorney.
Can you understand now why I hired the current contractor to remedy the initial situation? He had to remedy what the first guy messed up and then some. This guy has insurance, provided references, and maintained that he could do EVERYTHING. Well, I trusted that and it that turned out to be a STRETCH, but it has been a long 4 months of stress.
10D
STep back and relax. Take yourself out of the situation into a state of objectivity. Figure out what you want. No BS, no hex on the contractors. Just think house. Determine what it will cost. Go for that goal, even if you have to spread the cost over a few years. Right now, it looks like you have worked yourself into a fit and have lost sight of the reality of the situation and the goal. You can still get the house you want. You nay not be able to get satisfaction regarding the contractors. Welcome to a long line of folks who have had to compromise and make the best out of a bad situation, if you have never been disappointed before. Don't forget to look in the mirror. Some of the blame will be found there. Stop whining and solve the problem.Les Barrett Quality Construction
Took me two looks to realize that was a door and not a sliding window. I didn't have the right scale in mind the first glance. Helps if you do a SHIFT-click on it (so that it opens in a new window so you don't have to scroll).
The porch looks a lot better in the distance shot. That trim work mentioned in other replies would really help. For me that narrow left window sticks out. I'd be tempted to put a matching narrow window in on the right side to keep a symmetric look (or eliminate the pantry window).
For the download challenged, I have shrunk that pic a bit.
jt8
JohnT8-
Your ideas are good - only problem is what goes on inside. I can't put a window in on the right side like the narrow one on the left because that is a closet (Just occurred to me that I could put in a "mock" window - frame it out the same size as the other, baint board black, put glass over it - what do you think???). If I eliminated window in pantry there is virtually no light in kitchen . . and on and on.
Thanks for shrinking the pic - I am clearly among the download challenged.
You know TD, from a distance it looks not too shabby. I think if you try some of the trim ideas, you'll be happy.
thanks to whomever posted that deeper shot with add on window. Really, looks way better than the close up. Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thanks for shrinking the pic--helps a lot. Yeah, what i called a window is really a sliding door.
If you have to live with what's there, I'd think some sort of sham shutter above the door, between the two windows, and possibly flanking the windows might help tie it all together. Or some other sort of "craftsman" style detailing.