Backerboard or Mud Float In Bath/Shower
Tuscansun
| Posted in General Discussion on
I am gutting my 55 year old bathroom and was surprised when a tiling contractor didn’t want to use Hardie backerboard in the tub/shower area. He wants to apply the traditional mud float claiming it will give him a truer service to lay the 12×12 marble tiles I have selected. I don’t doubt this but my concern is moisture buildup and possible mold. I live in Houston where the humidity is quite high. I have recently installed a bathroom vent.
He has agreed to use backerboard but are my concerns justified?
Thank you.
Replies
What is he going to use for water proofing.
HE could float the walls and then still used a coating such as Red guard or a install Kerdi over the foated walls.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill,
I don't know. I am going to see him tonight so I will ask.
Richard
He seams to be going at it the hard way. A waterproof membrane such as kerdi is best and Kerdi says drywall is ok for underneath. If you want more peace of mind a cement board and Kerdi would ok.
Mud bed or cement backer board is not waterproof
Floating walls or floors I guess is the "hard way." Sometimes the correct way may be the "hard way." Worried about water or mold in the shower/tub surround? There are many ways to make sure the mudfloat is as waterproof as can you get it. The first way would to be to make sure all the dry wall seams are taped with drywall mud. After that you can put on the t-bar paper over the greenboard in the shower area. (t-bar paper has tar in the middle of the two pieces of paper to stop moisture) After that you would wire the walls. The next step would be to hawk and trowel the mud on the walls using float strips. Once this is completed and rubbed down you wait over night to let the mudfloat dry. At this point you have done enough that there should be no problems in the future of mold or water permiating through the tile,thinset,mud,paper,greenboard to the studs or any wood behind the greenboard.
This is how I have been doing mudfloat walls for years as my father has before me for years. If you are still concerned about water or mold there is one more way....When you come back the next day before setting any tile or stone, you can roll red guard on the mudfloat with a paint roller and let that dry. (It should not take long.) Once that is dry you can start setting the tile or stone on the walls. After the shower is set and grouted you should also seal it to insure just a little bit more that no water will cause any problems. This process is full of prep work and can cost some money with all the time and products you will use. There is no better way to insure your investment in your home will last a lifetime then to follow this process. Yes it is more money, time, labor compared to the use of hardibacker or other products of the same nature. This is your home we are talking about, lets do it correctly the first time and not have to spend money fixing it in another 3-5-10 years.
The problem with this install is that there is a lack of skilled contractors (tile & stone) who know how to do this method of install. Most today will just try to sell you on the fact that hardibacker is cheaper and will be just enough to get the job complete. Any type of tile or stone install is a big investment in your home or building, this method will last longer than any other that is out there. That's what you want right?
did U happen to run into John Bridges?
he's near Houston, I think ...
and used to be big on a full mud job.
why would the moisture be any different if he used mud or backerboard?
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
After 30 years in MI, I finally saw my first cement board job. I wasn't impressed.
I'd gladly hire any guy that offered to do a full mud job.
In either case, Jeff is right. You are going to have the same "mold" conditions in either case: mud or cement board.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Mud float, that has to be similar to a "hot mop shower pan", technology from the dark ages. Hardibacker, tape and thinset all the joints, allow to cure and then use a roll-on waterproof membrane and you are ready to tile. Use a roofing nailer to attach the hardi to the walls. Take the hardi out a few inches beyond the tub, and also use the roll on membrane on the subfloor by the tub, this will help mitigate water damage. This is the fastest, least expensive method that i know of.
Kerdi is not necessary on a tub surround, kerdi is ideal if you are doing a shower.