I just bought a new DeWalt single bevel miter saw, the 12″ 715. Nice saw, dead nutz on out of the box but the blade has some definete wiggle and appears to be an 1/8 or more out of flat.
My question is should I bother calling DeWalt and tring for a new blade, or just accept that the stock blade is a 2×6 Chopper and get a good one.
Replies
Call em. It doesn't hurt to ask. You would be surprised what you can get out of customer service sometimes. Then again they may blow you off. You might try taking it back to the store first and letting them try t resolve it.
Pop, lock, and drop it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChIdFwQwoYM&feature=related
Check to be sure it's the blade and bot a bad bearing which will cause the shaft to wobble. If it's the wobbles then return it to the store immediately.
One things for sure - if it's a yellow rimmed blade - it's a huge pc. of #### to begin with anyways.JT
99% of my blades over the last 5 years or so have been dewalt ...
maybe U have experienced operator error?
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Maybe that's why you go through so many blades then :)They may be good for a job or two, but the yellow rimmed ones are the crappiest blades they make. Equal to the earlier series 20 blades.They also made series 40 and series 60 woodworking blades - bigger teeth, better carbide.Operator error? What's that mean? It's pretty damn obvious when you are using a crappy blade. Maybe you don't know what you are missing in a good blade.The 40 and 60 series blades were of an excellent quality and the current 76 series blades are very good too - made in the UK. (now discontinued and re-branded as Delta blades)I know a lot of guys will simply figure that what the heck - buy a $35 blade use it for a job and throw it out, but that's a low rent way to work and even when new those blades suck butt.I have a high impression of you through these boards (apparently higher than you of me,) so I'm thinking you must be referring to your history of using the better Dewalt blades.No one I know would ever brag about the performance of the yellow rimmed Dewalt blades - it's common knowledge they are ####.JT
sorry ... can't say I've had the same problems as you.
that ... and I hate blanket statements ....
I try to buy the 40/60 serier blades for the table and chop saws.
but there are times I need a new blade and all they have are the yellow rimmed.
and
I've not had a problem.
it's pretty easy to tell if a blade is out of true.
if the saw and bearings are running true .... any brand new straight blade is gonna cut just fine.
but U are right ... I do price in a new table and chop saw blade for each big trim job.
If that makes me low rest ... so be it.
glass smooth miters on prefinished maple trim must be low rent too then?
not the current blade ... but one it replaced ... was actually a "master mechanic" or some such brand ... put off buying ... and the job site had no decent stores nearby ... so I went with that Ace Hardware had in stock.
and guess what?
for that one kitchen and those 2 baths ... worked just fine.
then ... used up on an engineered floor and tossed.
can't get much lower rent than that!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
True enough perhaps, but don't change the fact that They are #### blades. Got a shop near me that'll sharpen my good blades for $0.25 a tooth. So it costs me $15 to have a (in some cases better than) new blade. Can't sharpen a #### blade but you can a good one - many times.Plus, the better blades run quieter. Turn up your radio - you'll be fine :)JT
I'm with you Jeff. I have some expensive blades in my collection but I've got some yellows in there too.
Used them a couple of times on hardwood stair jobs in a pinch. A few more passes with the slider than with other blades but the results were good.
I was thinking about work done in the 50's and 60's when power tools became part of the norm for construction. Back then blades were not carbide, but they were sharp. It is not possible to get a carbide blade anywhere near the sharpness of a steel filed blade. So when you think about it, all carbide blades are #### in comparison.All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights. They are endowed with reason and conscience and should act towards one another in a spirit of brotherhood.(Article 1 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights)
I'm surprised you guys have been able to use those blades for stain grade work, actually for any trim work. The two I have tried literally left yellow paint on every cut. Both mine went in the trash.I don't believe you need a $150 blade on your saw to do good work, but there's a limit to the lower end for me, too.- KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
I have a numberof high buck blades, Freuds actually, for special jobs, but I'm with you, I don't see the need for expensive blades for everyday jobs. It's easy to keep many on hand, and I don't have a hissy fit when the inevitable nail or staple takes a blade out. I just grab a new one and go on.Can't say I've had problems with any Dewalts, Master Mechanic, or any house brand blades.Wasteful? Low rent? I call it convenience. Resharpen the special blades, toss out the "disposable" blades
John Svenson, builder, remodeler, NE Ohio
I don't like Dewalt blades either. And I happen to like their saws. View Image View Image
DW blades have given me my worst experiences 'cept for Oldhams or vermont Americans - not that I would use the later in anything other than a demo circ saw.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
What you said
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
1/8" is pretty substantial. Did you lay it on a flat surface to make sure it is the blade and not the saw. I'm guessing it is indeed the blade, but best to make sure. Then either return the entire saw to the store for a different one, or contact DW for assistance. Big box stores routinly take back tools for refund or replacement, and don't consider it a big deal (Note: avoid buying returns!) but they're not likely to exchange only the blade. DW will probably send you a new blade.
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I bought my last yellow tool.
Don't tell anyone I said this, but I'd just install the blade in an old saw and mark the wobble with a sharpie. Smak the blade with a rubber mallet, remark the wobble, repeat. On cheap blade they don't straighten them or even check for runout.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
After jamming a blade into hardwood, the previously true blade developed a wobble. I took the blade to be sharpened and asked the old guy at the shop if he could straighten it.
He told me 90% of blade wobble was the result of something between the washers that hold the blades together. In my case the blade jam caused a small burr to develop. On a new saw alot of things could get on the washers during assembly.
Take off the blade and lightly sand both sides of the the washers on a flat surface.
Gord
We just wrapped up a review of 12" Sliding compound miter saws for our most recent issue (out on newsstands this week, I believe). We tested the stock blades on each saw and found that all brands, with the exception of the DeWalt, were decent, or better. The dewalt cut poorly and left yellow paint on everything.
For what it's worth.
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
By the way, I should also note that even though the DeWalt saw didn't come out on top, I think it would be my first choice for lots of other reasons. A real nice saw for the money - just pointing that out so people udnerstand that I'm not anti-dewalt.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
This week, huh? Video, too?I noticed someone up above was saying all orange blades are junk...Just proves how different eyes and hands perceive things differently...I need to email you about another mini-review I though of...- KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
I'm all ears.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
I'm no Dewalt fan, but I have the 718 slider and like it alot.It's gotten a lot of anti-Dewalt chatter here and over on JLC about rough castings, etc.The reason I like it is that it weighs 55lbs -compared to the other 12" sliders coming it at closer to 65-70.Plus, the rails are short and the saw seems a lot shallower front to back compared to say, the Bosch - which feels like an aircraft carrier in comparison.It's got some neat features, but the crown stops SUCK! waste of money, even though I'll still use em. The Bosch one's flip right up out of the way, the Dewalt ones have to be completely removed to do any crosscutting.I just dropped off 5 blades for resharpening - when done -they'll be like brand new - at a cost of $19 each on average. These are blades that cost between $65-100 each new.That's well spent money in my thinking.Not spending $40-58 for a cheap blade that wouldn't be worth a sharpening charge.Pays to look around to. Amazon will sometimes have crazy deals on blades - often with a 20-25% discount. I've picked up $65-80 blades for $24-30 shipped on Amazon before.I do a lot of my tool purchases based on thinking ahead. Usually allows me to have better tools at less of a cost than cheaper, less quality tools with poorer (or not as long lasting) results.Of course, unlike some of my friends, I don't (anymore!) have a wife asking me, "do you need it right now?". Cause in a lot of cases, the answer is "No", but by buying when the deal is right I always benefit in the end (and so does the work, or the efficiency.JT