baseboard detail at floor transitions
In line with the post on floor transitions how do you generally transition the baseboard when you have a 3/8″ to 1/2″ difference in floor elevations? I have tried a few things and don’t really like any of them? I am usually working with small 2 1/8″ or maybe 3 1/4″ high base. Thanks, Jas.
Replies
just rip the taller base to match the shorter. They need to match the profile.
One way to handle it, if your transition is only 1/2 or 3/4" I scribe/rip the base for the part that is higher until I reach some casing. Then continue on.
Usually one doesn't pick up a small height variation in the base when its separated by a doorway.
If it is noticable when cutting down the base then you can rip the rest of the base to match the width of your shorter base.
Doug
Ripping 1/2" off the bottom of a baseboard looks bad.
You asked this question elsewhere, I explained 2 ways to get a reasonable appearance. Other people had different opinions.
You're probably under the assumption he's using around a 3" tall colonial base, might be a reasonable assumption, but an assumption none the less.
Ripping a 1/2" off of a 5" base, or a 1x6 with base cap is not going to be nearly as noticeable if at all, and IMO would look fine.
He obviously didn't find your "2 ways" as a satisfactory answer, so get over yourself with the attitude that your word must be the end all be all.
Edited 10/19/2005 9:54 pm ET by CAGIV
Ripping 1/2" off the bottom of a baseboard looks bad.
Why?
Thanks to all for your input, don't like the idea of ripping it down, particularly with 2 1/8" colonial but it may be the way to go. I have tried to just meet them at their full heights with each having it's own mitered return, looks weird at that point but every room has full height base then.
I may be losing my mind GHR but I don't recall posting this question anywhere before, ever. Sorry if I did and did not read your response. Would you remind repeating it for me please? Jas
Edited 10/20/2005 7:19 am ET by JasonK
Sometimes base looks better if the difference is added and sometimes it's better if taken away. If neither looks right, perhaps add a little to one and take a little off the other side. Of course adding to base is much more of a hassle than a little trim. Once upon a time on a long wall over hardwood transitioning to lower carpet that is seldom seen directly from the side a long gradual slope was the best transition.
If messing with the heights isn't going to work, maybe a transition can be added that shifts with the floor height. Depending on the floor layout and how visible the base it it might be as simple as a short angled section.
It sounds like you are learning that sometimes there are limits to what can be done with short base. As others have said, taller base makes hiding these things much easier. I'm not a fan of shoe molding, althought that can be used to hide stretching base.
A good way to learn what can and can't be done without notice, pay close attention to finished rooms with changing floor heights. Once you're on the lookout, it will be easy to see situations in plain view that have base at completely differing levels, differing heights, etc. that never catch anyone's attention. If I were to emphasise one thing, it would be that the whole game is about developing a feel for what people will and won't notice and how far things can be stretched before it's objectionable.
:-)
Hi Jason...I've had this problem several times this last year and I ended up ripping the base down in the higher floor to meet the lower flooring base (usually around 1/2 - 3/4"). Typically the smallest I go is 5" base but even in your case, don't think that people will be scanning your walls & trim for these little details. I have yet to have anyone point out the 'fudging' as it really isn't that obvious to anyone but the person doing the work! What certainly will be obvious is the profile not matching up.
Good luck....Mike
Ask the customer..or walk it with a fillet.
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